I used to use the Mityvac... Now I have a vacuum generator I scrounged that I hook up to the air compressor. It uses the Bournouli (SP?) effect to create vacuum. I use the small tank from the Mityvac, put the wrench on the bleeder, the hose on the bleeder and open the ball valve lightly. Wait about a minute, watch for bubbles to stop, refill the MC, and repeat for each wheel. It takes only a few minutes to do all four wheels, and requires no hand pumping, because I'm lazy like that...
i have a multi-vac, made a pressure bleeder from a garden sprayer, but i like useing two people, you really need to explain to a new helper what it is you want, i tell them to pump it up, that means pump it fully to the floor and let all the way off, they do this like 5 times, then i say hold, they have to keep the pressure on and i mean lots of pressure, i open the bleed screw and they say to the floor, i close the bleeder, i yell ok, they rest, but if i have no one around i use a nice stick and a good strong rubberr bungy cord, i sting it up like a bow and arrow useing the steering wheel, i get in and pump up the brakes thenkeep the pressure on with my stick setup, then you know for sure none is goofing off on you..lol..as for the hose fitting just make sure it does. i find if you dont get a really good blast air can get traped in a loop.
i open one bleeder at a time and let them bleed ....when the fluid is clear and no more bubbles ,i open another valve...
I pretty much do everything by myself - (that didn't sound right - did it) - anyway my jack handle is the exact length when the brake pedal is all the way down I slip it down on the pedal one end and the other end against the edge of the seat. It takes alittle longer, but I don't have to hear any "are you done yet" or "I'm getting tired, can I go in now"?
I think this is two for the Phoenix Injector: http://www.phoenixsystem.com/company/index.htm Though it didn't quite push through the fronts on my Cad., it's a trooper on most everything. Gravity is another method I've used as well, even on ABS cars... Cosmo
The first shop I worked at had a pressure pot that would force fluid into the system through the cap you clamped on top the master cyl. Worked well, but there's always the potential for a real 'goat rope' to occur when you're in a hurry. You'd be surprised how fast brake fluid comes out from under that cap with 30 psi behind it. I bought one of those vacuum bleeders (the one you plug into an air hose) from the tool truck. Worked slick. The only problems are that you can't visually see when the brake in question is bled (sucks some air where the hose goes on he bleeder), and of course, you have to drag the air hose over. At the second shop I worked at, the boss saw me bleeding brakes, and said "lemme show you something," as he unplugged the air hose from my bleeder. He topped off the master cyl, went and stroked the pedal a few times, then moved on thru the rest of the wheels I hadn't done. I kid you not, the bubbles would come out about four inches down the tube when the pedal dropped, and maybe one when it went back up. And, you could see when there were no more bubbles. Actually turned out to be faster; it's the way I've done it ever since. You don't need the vacuum thingy; several feet of clear hose, and a jar does it. And, you don't need a helper, either (except that it's nice to have a honey bringing cold beverages and sandwiches). -Bill
Yep, same here, have used jars and clear tubing on all four brakes and bled all at once. When no bubbles show in the tubing, tighten the bleeders and it's done. Usually. I have had cars that req'd the vacuum pump for rears. FC
Gravity bleeding gets enough air out of most cars, most of the time, to get by. But, it is the lest effective way to bleed. You can pretty much always get some air out of a gravity bled car using better methods. Pressure bleeding is excellent. Properly done, and depending on a few variables, vacuum bleeding is equal to, or almost as good as pressure bleeding. If done correctly, and with the fluid pushed through the system with sufficient force, manual, one pump at a time, open/close bleeding is excellent. In many years of working on cars both professionally and otherwise, I encountered on vehicle that wouldn't bleed properly with manual bleeding. That was a medium-duty truck with a remote booster. It had to be pressure bled.
Always done it the old fashion way. Got a mity-vac for Christmas so we shall see how that works next time I have to do it.
used the Vac method for a while, never as good as the Mrs pumping them. I use the cup that came with the vac, and some clear hose. My wife is so used to it, she asks to come out to the shop and help, 3 pumps then hold it, I release the valve, tighten it, repeat as necessary, until there are no bubbles.
i use a pressure bleeder almost everyday at the shop. never a problem. even the cheaper plastic ones are fine. i've also had co-workers adapt a bug sprayer with a hose clamped on. depending on your master cylinder there should be an adapter to fit. no reason to hate such a simple task.
As I don't usually have a helper, I use a pressure bleeder, I don't know if its available in the US but this one has served me well for quite a few years and on a westfield built with a friend, which is the most awkward thing I have ever come across to bleed. low level, m/c with tiny reservoirs and pipes that convolute all over the place gravity bleeding works on this one, but only if you attatch tubes to the bleed nipples to jars of clean fluid at floor level the car being on stands. larger m/c reservoirs have helped, at times a combination of both methods will be needed to obtain a good pedal.( as the car is o/t and only used for hill climbs the brakes even though well maintaind do tend to get a bit sticky through lack of constant use so strip downs are quite frequent) This kit is not expensive £16 or £17 .
I've always had good luck with gravity bleeding. If the pedal is mushy then you didn't take enough time to let it sit.
I just did mine. I wanted to use Speed Bleeders but no one had both sizes I need and I did not want to wait for the ones ordered to arrive. I went back to the method I have used for years. I bought the original "One Man Bleeder from Napa several years ago but had worn it out and found exactly the same thing at Harbor Freight. It works great, but does require a few trips in and out from under the car, but when by yourself it does the job. It is a bottle with a magnet attached so it can be placed above the wheel cylinder/caliper and a clear hose with a set of adaptors to use on the bleeder valves. You simply connect it to the bleeder valve, open the valve, then slowly pump the pedal a few times. Then look at the clear hose for air bubbles. Once the bubbles are gone, close the bleeder, refill MC and go to the next wheel. I am anxious to try Speed Bleeders, but the One Man Bleeder works great.
I have been bleeding brakes the same way I way taught when I was about 15 years old . Take one foot to pump up the brake peddle , Take one wrench , hose and a mason jar and bleed the brakes out . I have been doing it the same way all these years and works great the first time with no problems . So why change what has been working great for all these years ? Retro Jim
I've done that too! (only using a 2 x 4 cut to proper length) I swear if it comes down to it I can do most everything myself too. (Doesn't sound right when I say it either.) But, I usually get the wife or kid to help out. It all seems so simple, but inevitably they get out of synch with me.
Never use a beer bottle that is brown or green. It has to be clear glass so you can see the liquid. One late night years ago I took a sip out of a Michelob and...you know...a little spittin and sputterin from me and a hard lesson learned.
I like to use a plastic pop bottle for a bleed bottle, 20 oz. size, if you happen to drop it it won't break like a glass bottle or jar. I put the cap on a drill 2 holes in the cap for a tight fit on the bleeder hose and another for air so it won't cause a vacuum. You can use tie wire around the neck to tie it up to your frame or suspension so it stays in place while bleeding. I, too, use my wife for this task, other than bleeding brakes, I don't need much help in the shop. Thot about usin the speed bleeders, I'd like to see how well they work. Speedways probly the cheapest I guess. question:...when you gravity bleed, do you bench bleed the MC first, then gravity bleed?
I need to replace my Mityvac after my former boss ran over it with a Cat loader. They do work well for one guy to bleed brakes by himself. I have used pressure bleeders in shops that I worked in and in the school shop that I taught in and every one I have ever seen says "Max 15 lbs. air pressure on a lable on the tank. With all the different master cylinders now having the right adapter can be a task though. I still rely on a good helper to pump the brakes correctly while I do the bleeding most of the time. My 31 year old daughter has been pumping brakes since she was about four years old and can still do a better job than 90% of the other helpers I have ever had. As Mike said a page or two back. Having a helper do it exactly as you tell them is a prime key. That is pump the pedal SLOWLY and hold it until I tell them to pump again. Most helpers want to pump the pedal too fast and seem not to be able to follow simple directons and those for some reason usually are the buddy who owns the car we are working on half the time. I'll step on some toes again but I never heard of "gravity" bleeding brakes in the years that I did brakes daily for a living nor th 13 years I taught vocational automechanics and to me the only people who would do that are the amatures who never had to make a living at working on brakes or getting vehicles finished and out the door. I first read about it right here on the hamb. I really don't see the method as effective or productive.
I only pressure bleed now. Fastest & simplest- especially when running residual & adjustable porportioning valves on hot rods. Takes mere minutes to flush & bleed the entire system. Doesn't matter if the bleeders leak around the threads when pressure bleeding.
Pressure bleeder all the way, make full fluid changes quick and easy. It bleeds my clutch on my DD too! double win.
Like I posted earlier; Gravity bleeding gets enough air out of most cars, most of the time, to get by. But, it is the lest effective way to bleed. You can pretty much always get some air out of a gravity bled car using better methods. Anytime this comes up there are posts from people who have been gravity bleeding their entire lives and couldn't be happier. But at the other extreme, I doubt one could find a NASCAR/Indy/F1 team that gravity bleeds.
The old pump and hold method. Starting with the WC farthest away from the MC. Working my way back to the shortest.