Technical best polish

OK, I have an off topic truck-still an antique though-but it has its original paint that is faded on the hood. What is a good polish to use to bring it back to life and then a good wax to keep it alive and protect the paint?

Thanks,

Mike

 

Ok, thank you.

 

Best Polis,,,,,,?

 

Yeah, I was curious about the "Polis" which is the only reason I looked at this thread.
So I guess misspelling can be helpful.

 

Cheap wax has cleaners…just get some cheap liquid Turtle Wax.

“Best wax” is for show trucks!

 

2000 grit wet sandpaper, a bucket of water and a couple drops of of dish soap.
Polishing compound.
Wax.

 

pictures might help.

 

Hello,

As years of detailing our old cars throughout the years, each type of wax we used was the best for us at the time. Starting with Vista Wax, then surpassed by Cadillac Blue Coral, then by Classic Car Wax and finally, a Carnuba Wax that was around back when we were teens, but, never gave it a thought. The Vista Wax was a cutting wax that went right through old paint and made a shine like no other.

But, if too much pressure on the application and wipe off, some paint came off on the rag. If you had a dark color, it was obvious. Then Cadillac Blue Coral made the shine last forever, but was the most difficult to apply and take off. If one left a little bit on the surface, or missed it as it dried, good luck taking it off with one swipe. A new application on the old wax was necessary to get that mixed in with the new. Then it all came off.

This was was outstanding, but for us, kept us on the task at hand and not in "dreamsville." It was so good that I still have a can from the late 60s down to its last layer of wax and that fabulous smell. We now use it on plated metal items around the house, like 50s-60s Moderne Design lamps and accessories. But, it was too difficult to keep applying it to our daily drivers. There were other applications that made life easier.

Jnaki

Finally, the brand of wax from the 50s-60s was always there and a lot of folks got into the name brand fiasco and forgot about the pure Carnuba Wax offered everyone way back then. As technology advances, Carnuba was "re-discovered" by the brand name companies and marketed as the wax to have and use. Ads with "pure carnuba" were the mode of the day.

We also rediscovered the pure Carnuba Wax, as we were now in the harshest environment known to mankind. Pure salt air moisture 24-7 next to or directly on the salt water. So, it was necessary to apply the "best" wax for full protection. No car is going to be in this particular environment, but if the long lasting 24-7 application is good in this harsh environment, it will do wonders for a hot rod or daily driver in a garage for most of its life.

So, what is it? It is still 100% Carnuba Wax and goes by Colonite Wax. people will chuckle and say
Meguiar's and other brand names will run circles around that brand. But, check out the results in the harsh salt air environment for 18 years of daily/weekly/monthly activity on the water.

Note:
We tried the top automobile brand name waxes and they lasted a month or so of being exposed and used in a "salt air" environment. It is very slick after application and washing it after every sail is mandatory. But as it got past week three, the slick surface was no longer... "skid the towel" and it slides across the smooth surface. It was as if someone lightly sanded the surface and it sure seemed like there was no wax left. So, another round of several hours of arm motion and we had another month to wait.

But, after a neighbor saw us waxing on and off several times more than he did, he mentioned the Colonite Carnuba Wax product in paste form. Don't even think about liquid wax. That is ok for removing bird stuff, but won't last after the most powerful rain and bright sun after the storms.
We used this stuff for everything from stainless steel products to white gel coat surfaces. But, if you have to have liquid, they have a line of detailers and cleaners.


So, we cut down the refurbishing the surfaces exposed to direct salt water and the overall deck that gets 100% salt air moisture daily and nightly 365-66 days of the year. Now, it was definitely 5-6 months before it started to feel not so slick. Water still beaded, so there was a covering, but it just was not a super slick surface. YRMV
If you are still hung up on having "AUTO" on the wax product, they have that line up, too.


“For over 40 years, the mystique of Collinite's flagship and legendary product continues to find its way into the detailing conversation, while it continues to exceed expectations. In the age of innovation and miracle products - what is the fuss all about?”

“For the versatility, the value, the look, the ease of use and the durability - there's truly nothing else like it.”

NOTE2:
since 1936
Of course, your choice and method will vary with what you use. Colonite has been around for ages and does not get the big name advertisement as Meguiar’s, Mother’s or other big names. But, it does work and works better than those big time hot rod company products.
1958
Our Collinite surface stays a great looking area for such a long time, that we tend to forget how long it has lasted. A real wipe on/wipe off type of application and if you have to, several coats adds to the protection, but is not necessary... YRMV

 

For compounding/polishing, there is no "best". You need to use the product that brings out the shine, without excessive paint removal. You have to use the least aggressive polish that does the trick. Too coarse a grit and you'll cut right through to primer or metal!
Different type paints, sand/polish at different rates. That is, Imron is much tougher than lacquer to polish up.
I would start with a relatively mild polish, like Meguire's #7. If that doesn't do it, try a super fine compound. I like Sonax, but if you look at Meguire's bottles, they have a gauge on it telling you how aggressive the product is.
If that doesn't work, you probably need a more aggressive compound, or do a light (1500 or 2000) sanding, then compound. Doing it by hand, DA or rotary buffer, makes a huge difference in how it cuts!
In any case, whatever you use, go back up the ladder with the less damaging stuff, until you get to a glaze, or swirl remover. After that, you can seal it up with a wax. I use Zymol, or Pinnacle. Be sure it is a pure carnauba wax, with no cleaners in it.

 

Yep, the type of paint and the condition dictate what's needed to bring it back. Start with the mildest and if that works, great. If not, work up to what does get the results you want.
No matter what, the first step is to get the surface as clean as possible. Wash with mild soap, rinse fully and clay bar the whole thing.

Meguier's #7 Glaze will be your best bet for single stage paint.
/www.youtube.com/watch?v=nS4jfCWsqT0
The auto geek channel is pretty good. They also tend to 'sell' products, but not to the extent of a lot of the detail channels.
If you haven't used a buffer or DA on stuff before, do it by hand. It's a lot more labor, but the chances of messing up is reduced.

 

I get professional results with 3M Perfect-It. 3 stages of polish with each having it's own recommended foam pad. Then I use Klasse Polish. No wax.

 

I have been in the garage most of the week, I painted the hood on Monday and sanded and polished it yesterday. While the car is OT I guess paint is just paint, if not delete this.
I painted with base, laid out my stripes and cleared over the hood and fender tops. Then wet sanded, starting with 600 and ending up at 5000 (excessive), 2000 or 3000 is great. But I did get a lot of lint and stuff in it painting with the garage doors open and I wanted to make sure those 600 scratches came out.

Then plug in your buffer, wool bonnet and good compound and get busy. I use my variable speed buffer on about 3 to 4

After wool bonnet I like using micro fiber bonnets on a DA machine (griots garage) and Griots fast cut compound. On this machine I start at 2 to spread the compound and switch to 4 to work it in, working on a 3 or 4 foot area at a time. The machines go to 6 but I don't like working them that fast. Too hard to control and the paint gets too hot.

This is halfway done and where I left off last night. Tomorrow I will hit it again with the micro fiber and then switch to black foam pads and Griots polish to tighten it up.

If your paint is thin keep the speed down and try lighter compound so it doesn't cut so much. Foam and micro fiber bonnets remove less paint than wool bonnets so consider that as well.

I laid 3 coats of clear so I had plenty of material to sand and polish. Still, I take care around edges and corners as the machines can buff through very quickly.

Paint is not smart, don't over think it and take your time.