Technical Engine angle

Today I decided to put my 302 in my '53 F-100 to see how everything lines up and fits. I bought the mounts from Mid Fifty F-100 parts. Does everything look ok? For some reason it looks a little high in the front but my carb base is level and at 0 degrees. Nothing is welded in at the moment, just clamped in place. Also, because of the angle of the engine, the mounts do not sit parallel with each other. Should I install the mounts on an angle to match the mount coming off the block? Just want to do this right the first time.




This pic I tried to show the angle differences between the mount that bolts to the block and the one that mounts to the frame. Also the donuts provided with the kit suck big time. Completely crushed when I put the weight of the engine on them.

 

3 degrees seems to be the norm, but like most things here, opinions will vary.

 

Generally with the carb pad level front to back and side to side your tail shaft is going down three deg. Sounds like your sitting correct but I'd buy some none garbage biscuits before I made anything permanent

 

Do not trust the carb mounting angle. Attach your angle finder to the crank centerline, or an angle that is 90 degrees to the centerline. The valve cover rail will do or even a straight edge across the crank pulley and your angle finder attached to that.

Mount the engine about 3 degrees pointing down hill with your rear end pinion pointing up 3 degrees and you are golden.

-Abone.

 

I don't believe the mounts on the block are parallel or straight across.

 

Yeah I read that 3 degrees is the norm. I will take some more measurements. As far as the mounts go, they are made to bolt in. According to the directions it says to mount them flush with the top rail. Funny though how they would never sit in parallel with each other with the engine at 3 degrees.

 

Curious. Is the frame level, front to back?

Too much of that PBR, and things start to look crooked.

 

If you read specs in the Dana or Spicer Manuals, they agree that carb base should be level, with tranny output shaft down 3*, and the pinion shaft angle up 3*.
In an ideal situation, the 3 down and 3 up is the rule, which gives two imaginary parallel lines, but a variation between the two measurements can vary by 1*.

 

If the truck is at the desired rake and the carb pad is level front to back I would go with it. After it is mounted for good measure the trans output shaft angle and set the pinion to the opposite angle. So if the trans is 3 degrees down set the pinion at 3 degrees up. All my stuff is fuel injected now so I shoot for 3 degrees down but have cars running at 4 and 5 degrees down due to space considerations. Pinions are all set to match and are smooth at high speeds.

 

Is the ground level ?
And yes I am serious !

 

I will put it in the garage when I do the final fitting. That area is perfectly level. Thanks for all your input guys, I appreciate it.

 

Maybe I've been doing it all wrong, but I have always preferred to have the engine level in the car particularly if it is a car with no hood. Granted the u-joint angles need to be correct but with adjustable floats in carbs does the engine know the difference if the carb is not level?
And yes, I do ask this as a serious question.

 

I think of all the rides I put together with NO regard for angles and they were fine. No vibration or anything funky. I did the engine in my Ford using a magnetic protractor on a dummy short block. 3* down was what I went for. I had to make an adapter for the Muncie to the Ford crossmember, fabbed up some shims in case I needed them, which I didn't. Got lucky the 1st shot with it.

 

I will keep tabs on this thread . I have a 53 F1 with a 302 that the previous owner installed with crude angle iron motor mounts that I will pull and redo in the future. The comments from others here will make my job much easier. Glad you brought this up.

 

What happens when you put an aftermarket intake on there that is flat (many of them are)? What happens when you put a rubber rake on the truck, or even worse, a dropped axle in the front? Why all this concern about 3 degrees?

 

Make sure you have slack in the chain holding the engine up so the weight is on the frame when checking the angles.

 

Just google " u joint operating angles " Read and check images and you will learn what is recommended in order for the u-joints to last.

 

What is holding up the rear of the trans?

 

The 3* rule doesn't mean much
You've got to assume the siding is level.

 

That's no wrong.
If it's not done that way on a hood less car with a 4* rubber rake ,,,,the engine to fire wall gets a visual wedgie of 7* & it looks wrong.
The u joint working angles need to be right and that's it.

 

Right..Everything else is either cosmetic, or something you can live with, or deal with.

 

Got everything level today. Checked my rear axle first, it is from a 1966 F-100 and I was told it is a bolt in, which it was, from numerous people. It is 5 degrees up. Checked the engine/trans and it is 5 degrees down where I have it mocked up. The trans is sitting on a transdapt c/4 mount meant for this truck. Is 5 degrees too much?

Alchemy- the truck does have a decent rubber rake on it now that the engine is in. Same size tires front/rear but it does have a rake.

 

I run 5 degrees down, pinion 5 degrees up on my 47 cadillac to get enough clearance on my front end accessories, smooth at 80mph.