I am building 34 Chev pick up . I don't know if you guy's are familier with these old chevs but once the wood is removed they are like building a revell model car kit . So any way when I do start assembly over a steel tube frame work ,I have been entertaining using panel bond to join the roof to the cab corners and A pillers . the A pillers to the cowl. The 2 rear cab panels to each other and to the cab corners, short of this all these parts are bolted together . So how well does panel bond work? can it be welded through or near? can excess be removed easily? what is used to undo 2 pieces if you ever need too? Tell me what you know Thanks joe mac
I'm not that familiar with how those Chevys go together, is there any sort of flange to glue and clamp those parts together? I work for 3M , am an I car instructor, so I have known this product since it was introduced into the marketplace. Here's what it was designed to do: Glue outer body panels i.e quarters, roof skins, and door skins You can glue a roof skin or door skin on with no welding Doing a quarter you must weld the sail panel and rear vertical portion of the 1/4 Things not to do: Glue in a patch panel Fill a rust hole Use on intrusion beams I always refer to the instructions for using the product...check it out at www.3mcollision.com, search 08115, and there will be detailed instructions on product use on that page
yes all the areas I wish to use it have flanges . the rear panels have counter sunk screw holes which held the panel to the wood subframe every 5 inches around the panel, Once bonded I want to weld in the holes closed , how might this effect the panel bond ,heat ?
Are you replacing the wood? Or are you putting some sort of metal tubing for reinforcement? Either way you could use the screw holes to attach the panels.
Since im from the collision industry, i have used these glues alot, and diffrent brands also. Im not a big fan of them. In my eyes welding is tried and true and works best. If youre trying to weld where the glue is you wont get a proper weld. You also cant weld through it. For example when replacing a 1/4 panel, they still say to weld at all the corners. You can hit it with a hammer and it cracks. i currently work on city buses and all the panels are glued on but they use a product called sikaflex and it is absolutely amazing. Awesome bonding characteristics and still slightly flexible. Loveoftiki is right about what it is designed to do. It does have limitations. I used it for a patch panel once and it showed repair mapping in about two weeks. It has its place but i dont see any advantages to it at all
trying to avoid using the screws as I don't want to paint over them or try to put them in after paint !!
All wood will be replaced with steel tubing ,and yes I could drill and tap all the holes to accept a 10-32 screw but would really like a smooth look
Here is an idea... Don't know your skill level... But... Install screws which from my understanding will be using a steel support as opposed to wood, than take some lead solder and put it on top of the screws so it is as it was welded flush, but in case you need to take it back apart in the future you could...
Here are some pictures of the rear panels and cab corners , quite a few screws ,also a picture of the a piller overlapped and nailed into the wood inside and a picture of the roof where the entire back and corners are bolted together
The new aluminum F150 cab is completely assembled with glue and rivets. structural crossmembers, hinge pillars, etc. so it can be strong enough. if you have to remove it you will probably destroy at least one side of the flange
The screws are like a badge! (imho) Some body sealer in between. Another approach would be to cut the flanges all off, fabricate new metal to fit in and butt weld and metal finish them all.
I work in a collision shop as well and every panel we replace, besides door skins, we use 8115 and spot weld wherever you can reach. Door skins are glue only. Panel bond seams come apart easily under heat. It is also sandable so if you don't get it cleaned up right away just sand it off. You can create a very nice seam that way also. Like others said you cannot weld through it or near it unless you are using a spot welder (pro spot) or similar machine. It adheres best in a bare steel to bare steel flange, just make sure all bare steel is covered for corrosion protection. An acid brush or your finger with a rubber glove works best to spread it and spread it on both flanges for the best bond.
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