Customs Odyssey battery VERY impressed so to speak

Well how big would you go? I was thinking 1/0 or 2/0 wire from reading previous post


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I can't remember the CCA's but I have a small Odyssey on my 540" 12.6-1 comp blown alky engine and it starts just fine. The High $ Mezeire 10 pitch starter was my key to success.

 

Either size should be adequate up to about 16' total circuit length (both battery cables), longer I'd go for the 2/0.

 

And the good thing about welding cables is they are nice and flexible. More so than big battery cables and it makes running them much easier.

 

I am very impressed in the restraint shown by most of the posters here. The OP disses the Odyssey battery in his initial post but then admits that the car did not start that well with a regular unit--and he thinks that the Odyssey is the problem? Trying to channel 800 or 900 CCA's down an 8 gauge wire is like trying to feed a 6 carb 392 Hemi through a drinking straw.


Roo

 

Don't forget to use star washers.

 

While bigger doesn't hurt, I have always used 4 gauge cable, and our batteries are always way in the rear of the car. I have done a bunch of cars with that size and tons of boats. If you look at the picture I posted of the one in my 23 it is 4 gauge, and that is what both of my Sons are running in their cars (one is starting a 10.5 to 1 big block Olds) and what I am running in my 27. All day long at work I sell battery cable to customers, some of them professional installers, and 4 gauge is by far our biggest seller, unless they are working on a big diesel motored boat.

But everyone has their own thoughts on the subject, so just do what feels right to you.

Don

 

I use 2/0 when the battery is in the trunk, which I often do. One long lead to the starter, one short ground directly to the frame, to a very clean spot, WITH star washers. Then paint over it to prevent corrosion. Then a short jumper from the frame to the engine block, close to the starter, with more 2/0 cable. Also run some heavy gauge wire from the frame, or engine, to the body, again, with nice clean metal connections.

 

great informative thread...thanks to all that replied

 

If you decide to make up your own cables, Harbor Freight sells a hydraulic cable crimper that works great. I got mine recently for about $40. I can crimp #4 cables with no effort.

 

I had similar problems with a '34 sedan I had years ago. That's the main reason I left the (already there) battery box in the firewall on the cabrio. Be almost impossible on your "A" to have the battery up front somewhere. Good luck. Tim

 

Make sure you caught what a couple of posts said. GROUNDS are just as important as the hot lead

 

It can depend on what type of cable you're using. If you're using a flexible welding type cable, that usually has a much higher wire strand count, being made up fine gage strands (typically #30) but a whole bunch of them; #4 could have over 400 strands. This brings into play an electrical principle called 'skin effect' which allows the smaller wire to carry short bursts of extremely high current before heating (and dropping excessive voltage). You'll hear this touted for some audio cables, where ironically enough the currents involved aren't high enough to matter. A typical 19 or so strand cable will heat much faster. In any case, voltage drop is your enemy and the larger the wire, the less drop you'll have. This can be important in a low battery or hard-start situation...

If you want a nice factory assembled large battery cable, look at '76-96 Jaguar XJS's. These have a trunk-mounted battery, and you'll find a roughly 1/0 cable about 9' long with a heavy-duty molded-on battery end. They run under the car and are a bit of a PITA to remove because of some heat shields. Jaguar was notorious for cutting corners on their electrical systems, but they knew better than to scrimp on these.

 

This is great everyone has really great info thanks for the help ill update as soon as i get it fixed


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Sometimes a good starter and tune up are all it takes to make one start.

 

That maybe, but after everything discussed i believe its the 8g wire


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I have my Battery in the back of my car too, and I am running 1/0 (with a 1/0 Ground)-don't forget to make certain that you are running the correct size Cable to the Alternator too, and don't forget to ground the Alternator with the same size wire (using the chart above)-

Here is another resource for Cable (he will crimp the ends on it too if you need it, and the Cable is tinned,-the 1/0 has 4700 strands-good stuff)-

http://www.ceautoelectricsupply.com/batterycable.html

 

Welding cable makes great jumper cables too.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

I dont have a ground on my alt as it it but when i would get the car running it was showing 14v on the batt i have the motor grounded to the chassis so i figure the alt is getting grnd from there


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This is the way to do it. Can never have too many grounds. I am running a pc680 in my built flathead roadster for two years and you just need to look at it and it starts. Follow the above and you will be fine.

 

I sold my 48 Lincoln Cont. with a high compression 454. It was always a hard one to start, I had a conventional battery in the trunk with large cables. I put a Corvette stater on it and moved the bat under the hood, it improved but still undesirable. I went to an Oddessy but it was worse. I tried an Optima and worked like a champ till I sold it. You never know.

 

I know you are on the right track with at least 2/0 cable. If the conductor (wire/cable) is too small it turns into a heater. Another clue the cable is too small.
I have a military/manufacturing surplus place that I frequent and they have stranded 2/0 and 3/0 and sometines 4/0 cables that they have taken out of electircal equipment like UPS (Un-interrupted Power Supplies). They sell by the pound. It is usually very cost effective, a lot less than the supply houses. Another advantage is that usually the cable ends already have lugs, that way if you can cut one end off to length you only have to crimp one end. I like to solder and heat shrink the terminal ends too.
Just a thought and you will be amazed how that battery works when you get the proper cables installed.

LJ

 

2X on the crimper, if you know some one that works on overhead/underground lines they will have the proper lugs and dies to do it right. Much better than mechanical lugs.

 

I ran across this length of insulated aluminum wire when I was building a stock car. Must have been 1/0. The price was right so I used it with the battery in the trunk. 3 seasons of abuse, it never let me down.

Look at places like Speedway or Summit, I saw a trunk battery kit and I thing it was 2/0 for around $70.

 

I've got a long run from my trunk where my battery is to the starter. I got #0 from the local welding shop by the foot. Works great. No issues at all.

 

If you have a battery & starter shop they can make you any length cable you need and they also have the huge crimpers to attach the ends. HRP

 

At least 1/0 cable on all leads. From plus side of batt to starter lug-from neg side of batt to bell housing-from bell housing to frame and from bell housing to body plus small copper braided straps from frame to body in several places . I use an overhead line press for compression--never have had an issue.

 

So i changed the battery cable to 2/0 and i have to retract my statement about not being so impressed with the odyssey battery... It fires the car right up. It was totally my fault not using the correct size batt wire and i apologize. Foot in mouth lol thanks for all the help

 

OH AND MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!!!!

 

We all kinda knew that, and a merry Christmas to you to! Happy for your success! Gary