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Projects Help with Mustang II Brake Lines

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 53CHKustom, Jul 28, 2014.

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  1. 53CHKustom
    Joined: Jun 24, 2014
    Posts: 1,433

    53CHKustom
    Member

    Hello all,

    I had a brake hose shred up for some reason and bought a replacement. I thought it would be a simple project but the 3/16" nut on the steel line to caliper hose connection was rounded off before I took the old hose off. I cut the end off the 3/16" line and removed the fitting and put a new one on. I tried to make a flare end but it was difficult because of a tight turn on the line and also having to do it on the ground.

    I'm guessing now I have to redo the entire steel line back to the master cylinder. The previous owner doesn't know anything about the brakes other than it was some Mustang II pinto setup. Will I likely have to make my own line for this? I've searched a bit but it doesn't seem I can just buy a replacement off the shelf.

    Is it hard to make lines? I messed up the flaring process but am hoping it was due to me being on the floor and on a really right corner making the flare come out crooked. I'm most worried about bending lines to match the shape of the old one. Is that a difficult process for someone who's never really done it?

    I read there are some lines you can by and bend by hand but im not sure if these are good to use?
     

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  2. NAPA has lines of various lengths with the ends already attached. If you can find one that works for length that is the easiest way. The ones they have that are a green colour bend up pretty easily I would still buy an inexpensive tube bender to do them but it should be too difficult take the old one out and use it as a pattern to bend up the new one.
     
  3. You should do your flaring while the tube is straight, then bend it. This is what I do anyway. At your parts store, ask for the easiest tubing to bend. Often they have them already made up in 10" increments, so you may be able to get the ends and the length already done.
     
  4. 53CHKustom
    Joined: Jun 24, 2014
    Posts: 1,433

    53CHKustom
    Member

    Thanks K13 and bobss396.

    The problem with the old tube is that it had a bend and I couldn't get the nut far back enough to have a good straight piece to flare. I will work on getting the old line out and then measuring it and going to NAPA to get the premade lines and bending them after to match the pattern. Hopefully I can avoid flaring the ends, or at least I can do it on a bench and not on the ground at an angle.
     

  5. Beat me to it. NAPA should have them in 10", 20" and so on. You can't go wrong with a tube bender either. In a pinch you can bend lines around anything round.

    To calculate how much tube is consumed in a bend, there is a general formula: NA (neutral axis radius) x .01745 (a constant) x degrees of the bend.

    For example: For a 1.0" radius bend with a 90 degree bend, the NA is 1.093 (radius + 1/2 the material) x .01745 x 90 which = 1.716. You can mark where you want the bend radius to start and come up with a fairly accurate copy of an existing line.
     
  6. Yeah, you need some real estate to make a decent flare, which is hard to do on an old line. Just bring your old line and match it up. Trace the length with a piece of wire or string and you'll have a good idea of what to buy.
     
  7. 53CHKustom
    Joined: Jun 24, 2014
    Posts: 1,433

    53CHKustom
    Member

    Thanks so much for the advice! I'm not as discouraged anymore. I'm guessing if I switch to 11" rotors and calipers I probably just need a different Caliper hose but not new 3/16" lines? I'd hate to have to redo the tube bending and making a new line if I switch.

    For now I'm just saving up some money to get the 11" rotors and bigger calipers and potentially power brakes if the bigger rotors and calipers aren't enough.
     
  8. The hoses may be the same if the caliper is roughly in the same place. You'll know once you do the conversion. The hose should clip into the same spot as the old one, the hard line should stay the same.
     
  9. 53CHKustom
    Joined: Jun 24, 2014
    Posts: 1,433

    53CHKustom
    Member

    Good to know. Thank's so much!
     
  10. Not a problem. I have to re-plumb an entire '59 Ford soon with a front disc conversion. I'll have to brush up on my tube flaring skills.
     
  11. having to get a new line might be a good start to re routing it to a spot that will keep the flexible line from getting crushed.
     
  12. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,333

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That is a stock MII hose. Bending lines is not hard to do. I free-hand most of mine.
     
  13. Boones
    Joined: Mar 4, 2001
    Posts: 9,691

    Boones
    Member
    from Kent, Wa
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    the Napa lines can be bent by hand into the shape you want, no tools required
     
  14. Yes! Something is not right to end up with a crushed and mangled hose like that. Solve that problem before you run the hard line. It's about safety - yours and others.
     
  15. I bend all mine by hand as well, take your time and they turn out just fine. The green line from napa is very nice and easy to work with.


    Almost forgot, buy a good flaring tool, makes all the difference in getting quality flares.

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  16. 53CHKustom
    Joined: Jun 24, 2014
    Posts: 1,433

    53CHKustom
    Member

    Thanks everyone. I just got back from NAPA and bought the green line.

    I am not sure what caused the hose to shred or get caught up. I believe it could have been from a hard u-turn. It routes through a small space because of the angle coming from the caliper, not where it meets the 3/16" steel line. I think the calipers and spindle parts cause the hose to route through a tight space. I also am not 100% positive it was just a hose that went bad on its own. I am guessing it was the u-turn.

    I am planning to get 11" rotors and bigger calipers very soon so I will keep a close eye on the hose for now but probably deal with re-routing once I get the new hardware.
     
    lowcoe likes this.
  17. 53CHKustom
    Joined: Jun 24, 2014
    Posts: 1,433

    53CHKustom
    Member

    Oh thanks! Any tips for not messing it up? The old line I pulled off looked like it was bent crudely. I know some people have said I should use a pipe bender but it's a hassle to go find one since I get out of work after NAPA closes. I bought the green looking line from NAPA but also don't want to mess it up.
     
  18. I would make up a sample from wire first and follow that. I haven't used the green tubing yet, but if its that easy to bend it won't tolerate having the bends opened up & bent again if you're off. You'd probably be fine using a piece of pipe to bend it around. Just figure where you want the center of the bend to be, mark with a sharpie and hold it central to what you use for a mandrel.
     
  19. That's good advice, I use the old line as a template, IF it's good and was run properly, I zip tie the new line to the old one as I go so it ends up the same if that makes any sense. If you are starting from scratch then wire is a good way to lay it out. Other than that it's about patience....with enough patience you can make very nice hard lines without any special tools


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  20. jseery
    Joined: Sep 4, 2013
    Posts: 743

    jseery
    Member
    from Wichita KS

    I have bent a lot of fuel line and brake line and what you are being told never worked for me!!! You can not bend the tubing around an object (at least I have never been able to do that) without collapsing or kinking the tubing. The Green tubing can be bent by hand if you go slow and easy with it and don't attempt a very sharp bend. It is much easier with a tube bender as it provides side support to the tubing and also gives a much cleaner bend.
     
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