The Jalopy Journal
i ran a welded 327 crank in the dirt car. ran fine no problems. even built a welded strocker no problems. not all steel cranks were tufftrided...
i had that same problem many yeaars ago, could not get good valve or guide work so i bought the tools and do it my self. been doing it for 30...
i think from the discription of the work it is way over built. should last a long time.
no 59 corvette had holes in the end of the heads like later heads they are truck heads. not worth much unless you have a truck that needs them.
save your self a ton of trouble rent a trailer from uhaul.
they have been sleeving corvette calipers and master cylinders for years. they use red locktight. also you will have to hone after pressed in...
where i grew up. some brothers built a 39 chevy coupe with a 302 gmc punched to 320. olds rear borg-waner 4 sp. car sat stock hight. later about...
i was tech. inspector a the local dirt track. was looking at the roll cage welds scrapeed one it was calking put on over tack welds. put that car...
i have been doing shows for over 25 years. in the begining i was like you tried to help some one out. now i learned if that part will bring $100....
a better way would be to run a corvette oil fill tube with the pcv in it and pull air in the hole in the back of the block like mid year...
that is very good work. it is way better then trying to cut and weld old cast iron. i plan on doing something like that for my 250 chevy.
i never had any children. but my father got a deal on a 61 2 dr biscyane, 235 3 sp. bad motor. cost me $60. my grandfather had a junkyard gave me...
don't matter which rear you are using a spool in the rear is plain trouble waiting to happen. even on the dirt they can and do get away from you....
a january date code would be right. in 56-57 we did not have just in time manufacturing like now. parts could be made 6 months or more inadvance...
this is a trick question who in their right mind would have to even ask something like this.
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The Jalopy Journal