I'm trying to find a reasonably priced set of fender well headers to fit my '50 Chevy two door style line. I haven't mounted the engine yet so I can raise it up a little to clear whatever is needed. The front end has a 5" suspension lift. Here's the question: I am using a sbc and plan to use the stock steering setup. Will the $200 headers in the pic clearance the stock steering shaft? I don't see how it could. Or do I need the $550 set to fit this setup? This is a tight budget build so looking for an inexpensive alternative to $500+ headers.
With stock steering I don't think any headers would clear unless they are made for that application or custom made to fit. I put an sbc in my 50 and only found one set of headers that would clear the stock steering. Sanderson makes them but it's not what you are looking for. My 2 pennies
Really? So even a set that bends out of the way of the steering shaft won't clear? Has anyone used this set from Sanderson?
The headers in your first picture look like Patriot fat fender headers.. those would probably clear your steering, but you would need to wack the inner fenders... and I'm not sure about the firewall clearance at the "curve" of the header.. Tom
How did you raise the front 5"s with the stock steering? The reason I ask is I lowered mine 5 and put a Rack-n- pinion unit on it and thought I might need fender well headers but by doing so I was able to use a new set of rams horns (sorta)
Ya, the first pic is the $200 set made for a 37-48 with a sbc in it. I don't plan to use the inner fender wells on this car so they wont be an issue. Firewall clearance shouldn't be an issue either. Just mainly have trouble seeing how the stock steering setup will work with that set. Any drivers side pics would definitely help. To raise the front I added a lift block between the frame and the stock suspension cross member. It was easy since the original is only held on with a few bolts. Then I welded up a 5" dropped steering linkage to avoid the tension on the original straight steering linkage.
I have headers on my 50 Chevy that has a SB in it, but I am sure they are custom made. Sorry I don't have a pic as I am at work.
I'll see if I can get a picture and post to the thread sometime this weekend. My truck is a '38 but at least you can maybe get a feel for where the headers will go from it.... I have a ton of room for my steering but everything else is tight under there....so yours may not be as tight... Tom
i havent tried putting the over frame headers, but i know that the steering column sits right on the side of the exhaust ports. i would imagine it would have go up and clear the column. i havent measured it and havent seen anything with stock steering that would have that either. the second pic looks like it would work better since the pipes are coming through the center and not towards the back where the steering would be
How about Jeep fenderwells? I've heard they might fit since I am running a master under the floor and should clear. Anyone use them for a SBC?
I have old fenderwell headers from a tri-5 (have no idea of the brand) in my '49, and it has the STOCK steering mast and box, and I mounted the motor forward enough to not have to cut the ribs off the firewall. No pics, but if you want I can get some of it tomorrow???
That would be great if you can! I need to get a set ordered before I can mount the engine and tranny. Still have enough work to keep me busy for a couple weeks before I need to order them. I did cut the ribs back on the lower of the firewall for the trans to clear but not on the upper. The tri-5 is the way I am leaning but they are still $500, a little steep for a budget car.
Ok, I'll try and remember. By moving the motor forward, I was able to get the fan close enough to the stock radiator, so no fan shroud, modified the stock '49 trans mount to work, and used a stock G-body ('78-'86 Monte, Regal, Cutlass) drive shaft with no modifications. With a stock G-body rearend only adding spring pads to mount on the stock leafs.
I have a few G-body drive shafts in the shop. It would help a lot if it lines up to one of them but not a big deal if it didn't. I am assuming you have a small block chev in it. Just curious, what trans are you running? If TH350 or 400, short or long tail?
The Patriot fat fender Chevy headers should work, if you mount your engine high enough to clear. Not sure how high that will be, but it wont be unreasonably high. Best to bolt them to your SBC and then mockup the engine mounts with the headers. On another note; good luck with your steering geometry with that front crossmember raised 5"!!! Not to mention the stresses on the boltin mounting points with the extra leverage of that height! Kinda like this one? Glad you'll be driving that around the East Coast, and not my neighborhood!
Cant see your pic. The steering geometry? The steering geometry stays the exact same but now has a dropped linkage so it doesn't create the stress. The front is no longer bolted. I welded it up and it is also cross braced from the frame to the lowers. Pretty heavy but it will hold.
Not sure why the pic doesn't show, but I see it fine. The geometry indeed changes when you take the entire front suspension as a unit and lower it 5" away from the frame. The unit is still in the same relationship from wheel to wheel, but with the frame sitting 5" above the crossmember, it is now kicked out a few degrees and with the greater distance from frame to suspension it has more stress on it when it hits bumps or any road hazzards. In order to maintain the same angle the spacer would have to have some sort of pie cut shape, so the leading edge was taller than the trailing edge. Even then it would still have the stresses of being so tall from the frame to the spindle centerline. From the picture I saw on another forum (which I tried to post here) it appears the C channel stacked side by side on each side is a bit scarey.
Thanks for the insight. The two C channels were welded together before welding to the frame so they created an I beam of sort. Then supported with two cross braces so they wont move in any way. As for the few degrees difference in the angle of the suspension related to the frame, I am not so sure it would even be enough to create an issue. There is no longer any angle on the drag link running to it, so that will be ok. I've never heard the pie cut idea before but it is such a small difference in degrees it would need to be a minor wedge to add a little to it. What about a full size truck suspension lift? If you buy the 6" front lift for a 2500 it is a bracket which raises the control arms 6" from the frame and doesn't seem to have any angle built into the bracket. It is flat. Not to say you are right or wrong here since I have never tried this type of a lift before but there are others who have done this in the past and not had any issues.
Jimstro16 about 25 years ago i had a 51 chev with a small block and i used 55 chev fender well headers .They clear the steering fine ( no inner finders ) but rub the tires .I put 2 inch blocks between the frame and front end to rise the front . I had a little bump steer so installed a wedge in between block and frame for camber . drove great . Try Auto zone , They sell Headman i beleave? .Good luck . Kenny G.
Here's the best I can do for pictures. The motor is a SBC, with a turbo 350. It is a '64 Impala steering column cut and grafted onto the original '49 steering box, and the headers clear it by a lot. Also like I said, I moved the mounting of the motor forward to be able to keep the factory firwall ribs. Hope this helps. Ken
I'd rather have someone tell me I am wrong by doing this lift before I run it than have something happen so I will get some pics of it up in the AM. I think I'm ordering the '55 headers tomorrow. Seems like the best bet. I just dont want to get the other ones and have to build up a crazy drive shaft tunnel to raise the engine up that high.
Alright, I found them quicker than I thought I could. Let me know if you think I am in the wrong here. It is definitely braced to the fullest and I have confidence in the welds. The angle seems to be just as it was originally and should be more negative if anything after the lift, good thing. Here's a few pics.
Nice work looks solid to me. If you move the engine forward and up you will prob have a lot easier time findin headers Quick ques, why did you raise the front in that manner? Jus askin
Building a real low budget gasser. I like the look of the nose up high but I don't have the means to buy a straight axle at this point. So this was a cheap alternative for now.
ahh makes sense. kinda what i thought. good look with it, looks like you are well on your way. looks like most of the hard work is done, now its just fitting the engine and if you dont mind cutting the fender wells then it shouldnt be too bad/ how does it look from the front angle with the body on? would imagine you would see the IFS on blocks. does it stand out? good work
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