BRAKES..........F100 brakes on 37 to 48 Ford spindles..

[Deuce Roadster]

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Lots of traditional rodders use the F100 brakes on early Ford spindles (1937 to 1948). Here's HOW I DO IT. I am sure there are other ways. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif


I use 1953 to 1956 F100 hubs, backing plates and drums. They have the advantage of self-energize......or they help apply themselves. They are 11 inches in diameter and 2 inches wide ( so early finned Buick aluminum drums...will not work they are 12 inches in diameter ).

The early Ford (37 to 48) hubs and the F100 (53 to 56) share the same outer wheel bearings and cups. Bearing # 09067 and cup # 09195 are the numbers. No adaptating needed here.

You need # 14116 inner bearing to adapt the F100 hub to the early Ford spindle . The inner bearing cup (# 14276) works..as is. I always replace them NEW to prevent problems. You will need Victor seal #49195.

Often times, a very small amout of grinding is required on the top of the spindle and the rear of the wheel cylinder where there is interferance on the 37 - 41 spindles. I have never had to grind a 42 to 48 spindle.

When parts hunting, I will buy 66 F100 brake shoes and hardware. They are self-adjusting. The earlier ones are not. 1953 to 1966 F100 brake drums interchange. I buy them new but good used is OK (but hard to find here in the Southland). I only use 53 to 56 backing plates. They are easy to come by (all the Mustang II changeover guys will give you the JUNK they do not want http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif)


Some rodders say that they have had to slightly grind the inner wheel bearing so that it does not interfere fit with the spindle. This may be true.....but I have never had to do this. I use TimKen bearings ALWAYS......

Also....by the way......bearing and race numbers are standardized. The numbers I gave for the cups and bearings will interchange....TimKen, Koyo, NAPA, Bower/BCA......all will fit. Seals are not standardized...... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

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Heres mine....on the 32......

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I like the F100 brake swap because it improves the brakes, they have the 5 on 5.5 early wheel pattern and it's old timey traditional. I realize that disc are better but this changeover was HIGH TECH back when I got the roadster...over 25 years ago. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif



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[Bigcheese327]

Can you run '35 Ford wire wheels with adaptor rings against the F-100 drum?

[HOTRODPRIMER]

I have the same set-up on my mor-dor and have 16 inch kelsey's with no adapter ring,,,,

[manyolcars]

Those brakes also work on 35-36 spindles with the addition of a small ring to fill the gap between spindle and the center hole of the backing plate. I've never had to grind on my inner bearings either. The first time I did this was 1973 and grinding the bearing was not part of the job.
Hotrodprimer, the inner face of the 35 wheel is 1 1/16 from the face of the brake drum. What fills that space on your car?

[Paul2748]

From what I heard (I have the same setup) that the inner bearing will probably not come off once you get it on (and it will go on)if you don't grind because of the differnece in the radius of the front spindle and the conversion bearing. I ground it just to be sure. I don't know about Kelsey's, but the Ford 35 wires WILL NOT fit on the 53-56 brakes unless you use about a 1 3/8 SPACER ( no adapter needed)because the outside diameter of the hub on the wheel hits the drum before the wheel mounting point of the hub. Look at the difference between the pre 49 drums and post 48 drums. One is entirely flat while the other has a raised wheel mounting surface. I have 35 wheels on 53-56 brakes and I went through this. According to the so-called experts, the outside if the wheel hub should not rest on the drum. This seems right

[Deuce Roadster]

[ QUOTE ]
From what I heard (I have the same setup) that the inner bearing will probably not come off once you get it on (and it will go on)if you don't grind because of the differnece in the radius of the front spindle and the conversion bearing. I ground it just to be sure.

[/ QUOTE ]



I have heard this......that's why I mentioned it BUT I did not grind mine (or others I have done/or been involved with) and had no problems. I had my hubs off the redo the king pins/bushings. I had them off to change out backing plates......I found a set good enough to chrome. I had them off to repack the bearings and replace the seals.

Not a problem....so far....they came off easily..... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif


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[visor]

On my '40 I had to take a small amount off
the inner bearings. They would stick on the spindle
when I went to remove them.
These brakes and plates will also work on
the 32,33, and 34 spindles with the addition of a
bearing adapter and ring spacer.
(both available from the aftermarket)

The ring spacer to use is a model A piston ring.
Works for the 35 and 36 spindles to fill the gap
between the backing plate and spindle.

I used a 60's chevy single truck master cylinder ( Its
actually a combo cluch/brake unit.) and man does my
40 stop! Well at least better than the stock 40's did.
---------------------------------------------------------
"OPOSSUM BENDER"
Central Missouri Chapter

[el Roach]

GREAT POST GUYS THANKS! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[NealinCA]

BTTT. Some of these TECH posts rolled off to never never land too quick.

Neal

[Nick32vic]

This is a good post. Im doing this right now. Thanks

[nobux]

I'd like to say thanks, too. I picked up the bearings and seals today.