I read Lucus gums up your engine after awhile better to just use addative and oil???? You have had good luck with Lucas T Achilli????
I use Valvoline Racing Oil (20/50) plus Lucas Zinc additive. The racing stuff still has some Zinc in it
Valvoline VR-1 racing oil has a high level of ZDDP. Don't believe you need additive on top of that. I've also read too much zinc may be harmful as well.
don't count on it. the newer diesel oils have no more than regular motor oils. You really need to pay attention to the spec on the oil itself.
Hear we go/ See what I mean everybody is all over the road? I have read they havetaken the zinc out of the diesel oils also-Rotella for one. Thank you for the Zddp link I will read it
Rotella T 15W40, I use it in everything...diesel tractors, 331 Cad motor to a couple of my older Mercedes. Real good oil for flat tappet motors. As 69Fury said...go to bobistheoilguy.com. All the poop on motor oil.
What spec is it? That'll make all the difference, all Rotella is not created equal. A generic statement like yours is uneducated as far as oil goes.
The truth is diesel oils are starting to come under scrutiny of the Feds as well. Now that diesels are starting to get Catalytic converters the regs are changing. I use either Valvoline VR1 or Castrol GTX 20/50. Both of these oils have high Zinc and Phosphorus contents and I don't feel the need for any additives beyond that and have not had any cam problems with my flat tappet motors. You have to understand that not all oils are subject to the government mandated lowering of the levels of Zinc and Phosphorus. Only the grades that are recommended for the newer cars that have the converters that are damaged by the additives. 20/50 weight is NOT affected by that and most manufactures still use the additives.
Groucho, there's been so many different posts about ZDDP, I'm not sure where I read about the effects of too much ZDDP. I wish I could remember. However I'm sure there's a point where too much is too much. I have also read some of the racing oils do not contain some additives that prevent sludge. There are so many different opinions on the ZDDP subject it gets confusing. I have been using the Mobil 1 15W-50 as I've read its high in ZDDP. I think the next oil change I'm going to switch to Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs 10W-30 and be done with it. I know they have a high ZDDP level. You have to be careful as you could be using some brand and viscosity oil thinking it has a high ZDDP level when in fact it doesn't. A good case in point is diesel oils.
A good reason to join the HAMB Alliance, as I mentioned, many of the oils mentioned are available with your discount
anybody else tried the Brad penn personally, the green stuff? I found out I can buy it in Tifton, which is worth the drive to pick up a couple of cases, only about 30 minutes one way, I know it's supposed to be the green Kendall, I talked to someone at the company and he said it's actually the old Kendall wells, and they updated the originally refinery. the kendall they sell today isn't kendall at all. Confusing isn't it? I have an off topic 25 year old Japanese car with flat tappets that has really expensive valve train parts, plus the 90 lincoln, car may be off topic but the 302 is stlil a pushrod 302 just as it's been for many many years. I'm pretty sure it's not roller. I haven't taken off the valve covers yet, but I need to anyway to fix the oil leaks. Isn't the green Kendall the same as the old Sinclair oils? I haven't seen any since the 70's and I can't remember
Ford went to roller cams in 1985 in the Mustang and I think all applications of the 5.0 around the same time. Pulling your valve cover won't tell you anything, you need to pull the manifold. But i bet your 90 Lincoln will be a roller.
"ring seat issue, chrome molly rings, and synthetic?" just a small point, I think for most any engine this side of top fuel there are chrome faced rings, and moly faced rings, but the rings themselves are cast iron or ductile iron
Ed my friend, I hate to argue oil as well, but I was told directly by a Mobil 1 exec that the 15w/50 is high in Zinc still Also, From their site Mobil 1 15W-50 is also recommended for older valve train designs that may benefit from a higher level of anti-wear normally not required for newer generation vehicles. Mobil 1 15W-50 will also provide better anti-wear protection for higher valve spring tensions in certain racing engines.
I personally use additive with all new motor or cam break-ins. After that, I don't, unless it's something with stronger than stock valve springs
I was thinking overhead cam for some reason, I hope it is roller then I can run conventional oil in it. that still leaves one car with really hard to find followers I don't need screwed up.
Last time I used a new comp cam, it told me to run Rotella, that was two years ago. I still use it with no problems. Maybe I'm lucky.
Not all Royal Purple has a high content of ZDDP. Only their racing oil has it. Mobil 1 15W-50 has it.
Thanks bigalow1. Valvoline VR-1 racing oil has a high level of ZDDP, you don't need an additive. Only Royal Purple racing oil has a high level of ZDDP.
Am I reading this wrong? You say VR-1 has a high level of ZDDP. Then say ONLY Royal Purple has it in the very next sentence
Groucho, what I'm saying is Valvoline VR-1 has a high level of ZDDP. Not all Royal Purple has a high level of ZDDP, only their racing oil has it. Some people are under the misconception that all Royal Purple has it.
Do you need ZDDP in Synthetic??? Doesn't synthetic use a different lubrication chemstry and not require ZDDP? What is ZDDP listed as on the oil container?
Couple years ago I bought a new flat tappet cam from Isky---They recommended Brad Penn #1 and Joe Gibbs #2
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