The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by choppedtudor, Jul 4, 2010.
Is that bermuda?
The joints are all smoothed out nice. It's a clean job you did on it. Did you use a jig to do it? I made the back half of my frame myself and I didn't use a jig and I got it higher on one corner by a little bit.
Do you have a drawing of how it will look with the body and suspension on it rolling or anything? I can't imagine how it is going to look from seeing just the frame like that. Post up a pic of a rendering or something if you have it. Or, if you have a body for it already, sit it on there and put the frame at the ride height it will have and lay some tires against it and take a shot of it like that and post up.
Don't let all these traditional guys get you down. People Z'd frames back in the day to get the body low, just not this much. But people get on here and post up more radical work than would have been done back in the 50's and get praise for it. You might just end up with people thinking "rat rod" with it chopped down that far like that in the frame. I think it will all depend on how you finish out the entire car overall. It is gonna be one low mutha fo sho!
Also, remember.... The words of a famous fabricator - "It's all just metal. If it don't turn out right, you can always cut it apart and do it over again."
You have GOT to keep posting about this one. We all want to see how you work out the ride height with that amount of Z.
Thats just TOO funny. You do know this isnt a RR forum
For the front the Bleed sweep is your friend. Have a look at my build thread below how we did mine. Its 4" in the front with I think 12" in the back, cant recall. Its VERY low.
The way to do this is start at your tire sizes and work backwards. Some great threads here re building A frames. All is not lost, you could easily rework this to something that will work. Pens and paper are your friend. Good luck and keep us posted.
That's some funny shit there... and true!
where these comparision's done with a brush or sprayed?
Hey choppedtudor! It was obviously a ton of work, and I applaud your effort. I can't imagine the finished product though. Please send pictures as you go. Good luck and best wishes from an old dude in Canada.
Ok, Inquiring minds need to know, Exactly how tall are the tires you intend to run on this to get the frame off the ground with an engine and trans in it? You do intend to put an engine in the standard position?
Good. Consider yourself ripped.
So you post this morning and we all have questions. I have to ask you how you came up with this deep of a Z and if you thought about problems with engine height, steering geometry, fan location compared to radiator, exhaust clearing the frame rails if you drop your frame mounts so you can see past the engine. I am dealing with all these issues with just a 4" Z , I cant imagine what you will deal with on your Z. Also as far as you wanting it low, I like them low also and that can be acomplished with a 4" dropped axle and a lower spring for the front. My frame would be digging into the ground with the two items I just mentioned. As far as the traditional comment, they should get a few copies of Hotrod or Car craft. I am reading a 1954 and a 1958 small page issue of Carcraft and there are some petty damned low cars in these issues. I just feel you need to re-think how much Z you really need in the front. Other than that, the frame looks smooth.
I hope you remembered to remove the galvanized coating from that Uni-Strut before you welded to it. The gasses produced by welding through it are very bad for you.
#### I know a cat named Mark at ATOMIC LAWN SERVICE that could whip that lawn into shape for you !!! >>>>.
I just wana see what the finished product is gona look like. It's going to be like nothing else, that's for sure.
well now that you've all had your little bit of fun I'm gonna put the wheels back under it and drop the body on...there is a method to my madness.
Ok well we are all waiting. How deep is that Z in the front?
the front is dropped 10, the rear 12....yes, I engineered it on paper, yes the frame was under the body and on the wheels as a roller, yes I accounted for the weight of the motor and tranny, yes I know I'll have a radical floor tunnel for the driveshaft and YES, IT'S A KINK-FREE HOSE...LOL
mock it up ,lets see some pics
12" in the rear will be fine. in the front mine is 4" sweep with a 4" dropped axle and really low. You running huge front tyres or no drop in the axle? Im intrigued to see if this will work. Lookn fwd to seeing it set up. Whats the plan with the body? Tudor thats channeled 4" with a chop or highboy?
ok, just put the wheels back under it, mind you the cross braces are just temp. the frame will sit level with the weight of the motor/tranny
that thing is not pothole friendly
nor speed bump......ouch!
Those "kink free" hoses are a bunch of B.S., but here's what you do...buy one from Lowe's a save the receipt & guarantee. When it kinks & fails, get a new one. Repeat process forever. It works! BUT REALLY, concerning the "Z." I know only you need to love your project, but it will cause problems in various ways (and they will be problems that will probably be upsetting to you). My rear "Z" is about 10" rear & 4" front & I think that anything more (in my case anyway) would have caused me to make ugly design compensations (not to mention scrub line problems). It's still not too late to knock it back a bit.
Please explain to us how the engine and radiator will sit.
I'm guessing in-between the frame rails and at the front of the car respectively...
I'm assuming its gonna have open headers so exhaust isn't a problem but is this thing gonna be alright scrubline wise?
I dig it ! My coop is 7'' in the front with stock axle . My Z is hid behind firewall , & yes I lost alot of room !
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