I want to start by saying hello to everyone! I am new to this whole T bucket build and stumbled across Youngster's frame plans. A few questions. Who has followed it to a T? Same wheel and tire set up...small block Chevy 350/350 combination. I am wondering how the frame sits fully loaded, does it have a hefty rake to it or does it sit fairly level? I am already stretching the front rails to accommodate a 53" 27 roadster truck body (which I am fabricating myself). I just don't want the thing all raised up in the back. Have mercy, this is my first build but not my first hot rod.
If you are building the frame how it sits is up to you. What kind of rear suspension are you using? You will need enough kickup at the back to accommodate your rear axle or IRS. Typical suspension clearance is 5 or 6 inches between axle and frame and of course, will sit somewhat lower fully loaded compared to parked at the curb. For a sports car or hot rod suspension can be reduced at the expense of a rougher ride.
Welcome to the HAMB! Sounds like an interesting build. You are building your own truck body? You have pics of all this - that would help.....
I will be using a GM 10 bolt with coil overs and radius rods, set up the way Youngster had in his plans.
no pics yet....everything is still on my drawing table. i have been welding and fabricating for 25+ years, finally put it to good use other than a paycheck. I am going to be starting out with a rough mock up with wood for the cab so i can get my frame underway. waiting for a little warmer weather, here in Ohio, before i get started. just trying to get all my ducks in a row before so i don't have to go cutting off the rear kick after its welded.
you will have more options than most... i know the plans are for a TEE, but building your own body you could start with any cowl and grill... stude, poncho, olds, buick, packard, hupmobile, essex, chevy, caddie, the mopars... [i'ld run 1932 or earlier]. maybe your [yikes] grandkids can jump on their computer and create pix with any grill and cowl... then see how cool a cowl you can find / afford and go nuts...
welcome....and we bleed pictures.....sorry - NEED pictures - in the hope we can be of some guidance.......
Have look here http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ay-how-about-build-2-t-bucket-frames.1025433/ This pic shows that it will set pretty tall in the back. The frame will be above the CL of the axle by a guess of 3" or or more . Run a 30" rear tire and I bet it's way over 18-20" ground clearance to the bottom of the frame. Some 4x4 doesn't ride that high, a kitchen chair is 17" This one I did has the bottom of the frame at wheel center line and a bit longer tail to clear the diff at the rear crossmember. And this is also 29" wide at the rear frame, the linked plans are narrower
Thanks, 31Vicky with a hemi, I looked over your frame builds (which were awesome by the way) your kicks are somewhere in the 10" range? which gives you about a 7" difference between the 2 bottoms of the rails(if my math is right or close anyway). I am going to add 3-3 1/2" to my kick and should get me to around 11" difference between the 2 bottoms of the rails. Sound about right? Or do you have any more words of wisdom for me? It is greatly appreciated!
Yes, get your stance right where you want it in your head or on paper first. Graph paper and scaled sketches is easier than starting over. At least Know (better to have them in your grubby hands) what wheels and tire's you plan on running before you begin. Same with axles. Run a mock up and have fun
Timely stuff, Thanks Vicky. I am starting to lay out my rails, want it to sit like these. I'll be running a 30" tire, but 99% decided I am going with coil springs and t-bolt style bars in the back, ala mid-sixties gassers.
Bobby This is purely my opinion but........ If by 10 bolt rearend you mean the kind with the non removeble third member and the rear cover that unbolts, these are not the mot attractive rearend to use in non fendered car. My 2 cents worth.
I built my T bucket back in the earl 70's using the plans (what they were) out of one of the rod magazines. I don't rgemember the kick up but the frame sat reasonably level and I had a 108 inch wheelbase. One thing I'd suggest even before you buy the steel tubing is to make a run to Lowes or Home Depot and pick up a few of the cheap 2x4s and Mock up the frame to see how you want it to end up being. Lots cheaper to do the planning stage and you can reuse most of the boards for something when you are done. That way you can stand back and look and see how things will fit before cutting into one of those 100.00 and something sticks of rectangular tubing. One other thing, if you have to have the tubing "cut to haul" at the metal supply take your measurement for the length of one of the rails from the front to the spot where it kicks up so you don't end up having to butt weld a couple of pieces together because they cut the stick in the middle and what would have been a one piece crossmember ends up being two short pieces.
Funny, I did this working on the driver position for my coupester, but had forgot all about it for my T bucket! EXCELLENT!
A rear with a drop out center section looks better, but the price jumps accordingly 64 and earlier GM, ford 8' ford 9' mopar but I forget which one is pretty. If it's getting coil overs it sorta blows the banjo or quicky into confusion But there's ways to make it better
I set out to get one pre-'63 drop-out ten bolt, wound up with two, because the second one was just too cheap to pass by. Bought a '57 chevy rear with 4.10s in it at Monroe for $75, couple months later, I ran across a '61 Corvette housing, two sets of brakes, all the emergency brake hardware, and 3 sets of axles for $100. I know this is the fairy tale that is the HAMB, but if that's not affordable, then the op cant really afford to be messing with this stuff.
Oh that's affordable alright. I don't ever get lucky like that. When I find that stuff the folks want top buck. The guy in front of me and the guy behind me get the same price. I sometimes assume everyone fights that same battle. My sister can't hit anything at the casino, neither can her friend. However if they've gone together her friend hits pretty good but my sister still don't. They say it's better to be lucky than good.
Bobby you should draw it up yourself maybe in 1/4 scale that way you know if everything is right An old door and paper and pencil has worked well for car builders for decades DND
Was definitely building it out the 2×4's first (I've been spying on this group for about 4 months) I weld for a living, gettin all plate steel from the "scrap" hopper....getting tubing at their cost, $50 for a 24' stick of 1 1/2×3x11guage... $68 for the 7/8" DOM ...already have the front cross member tubing. so far I'm pretty proud of myself, all of the steel for the spring perch, radius rod mounts, upper and lower shock mounts, front and rear bat wings, motor mounts have all been picked up for about $5 from the "scrap" hopper
On the budget I have right now, Its the GM 10 bolt complet for a $100 or a maverick rear end (5 lug)that needs new drums for $150. I know the maverick is more desirable but I know the vehicle the 10 bolt is coming from. Trust me I would much rather have a 9" ford than anything else but its just not in the hand I was dealt.
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