The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Freaky1, Jul 20, 2016.
It used metric calipers and dodge rotors that fit the Henry J hub.
Back on page one of this thread I posted a pic of the spindle. I have been looking but not very successful in how to remove the king pin. Nothing I've found has really given me a clear idea how to do this. Anyone with any inside info?
For some inspiration, here's a HJ I saw when over in Canada recently.
Why am I drawn to green? I was toying with the idea of some shade of green the other day when I was taking a break and then POOF mgtstumpy comes along with "inspiration". Could it be a sign? Maybe?
On to the kingpin question, but with more specifics. My question is more directed at the retaining pins and whether they are directional. Do they only go in, for example, from front to back or can I drive them out either way?
Green *alohagreen* kolor -n- some supertricks
press out ---http://kfparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=171
i seem to recall that the 324 heads on the '56 are the good ones. correct me if i'm wrong...
Here's a photo of a Henry J that a friend of mine built. It has a 401 Nailhead with four 2bbls in it.
these will bolt right on to the 303 and give you around 25 more horses at a minimum
Good to see another HJ Have fun with This I have built 2
Went with the kit from Kanter because I needed more than just kingpins. The retaining pins look like there is no taper, but looks can be deceiving.
I've got a '62 401 Nailhead and planned to put my 471 blower on it.......but the more and more I read about this 303 I'm thinking the Nailhead might be for the next project.
PM sent. I found a set of towers from a '57 371 to do the 1.8 rocker upgrade, would the #10 heads work with the '57 towers? I really like the intake, I think the price is right especially if it's for the intake, carbs, and heads.
Alright, so I've been busy......unfortunately not on the J. It's now in the garage, organization is done, and more parts have arrived. I picked up this rear end from a friend for the cost of "get it out of my garage" and have a question about it's condition.
It's a Ford 8" from a '67 Mustang and clearly there is an issue. Can these U-bolt grooves be welded and filled or do I now need to look for someone to "get it out of my garage". I'm ok with it being an 8" as my goal is to get this on the road asap, and it was free. I haven't decided if I'm going to narrow it either which could justify having these welded.
Should I just chuck it and go pull one from something in the junkyard?
It is repairable by welding and then grinding however I would do short runs only to fill the hollow so as not to put too much heat into housing. Clean the housing beforehand to remove the road grime and contaminants so there is clean base metal work with. Work each hollow slowly and go from LH side to RH side of housing, presumably both sides are similarly worn from the U-bolt, allowing welds to cool before laying down another bead until filled. Even when grinding don't put too much heat into housing. My 2c worth.
They both are worn but this side is far worse, thanks for the advice!
Spent yesterday cleaning up the front suspension and found the lower A arm on the right side is bent. Everything else on that side looks good but damn. The search is on for one, if anyone knows of one or has some stock suspension parts hanging around they'd like to part with I'm interested.
Great looking Henry J! I love the Buick in it. What % of engine set back did he use?
I'm not sure what the engine setback is. I also cannot check....Unfortunately, the owner / builder is having a very tough fight with lung cancer.
I just gave a whole front stub to a scrapper, nobody wants the stock stuff.
Was building a Henry J in the 80s as my second project. Volvo 240 is a Dana33 rear end and the right width, triangulated 4 bar with disks. Bolt on AMC spindles/disks are a direct bolt on and a 70s trick. Yes the front end is FORD, you find the casting marks on the upper cross shafts?
That 8inch is fubared. I would replace the tubes before welding
No worries, found someone early in the parting out process, getting everything I need. Someday I'll convert the entire front end over to a Mustang II. I've got a diagram of the cross member with all the measurements on it. I was hoping it would be cheaper & quicker to just go with stock but it's creeping up there.
I don’t know much but I know the stock HJ radiator is not going to come close to being able to cool my Rocket V8. I’ve got a replacement from a ’67 Mustang that should work nicely but it’s going to take some fitting to get it in the front cowl and keep the fenders and hood in the correct place. I spent some time on that this weekend also and need to do a little more cutting on the top. I’m also working on a new cross member because the new radiator is about 2 ½” taller & that’s got to go somewhere.
A 57 -59 ford nine inch is a bolt in on your stock springs
Right now I've got the stock springs & stock rear end in it. I'm pretty sure that stock axle is going to go & having something to drop in would be nice.
My favorite Henry!
Got the radiator mounted, it's straight & fits the way I wanted it. Obviously it's all got to come apart to get blasted & painted but the fab is done.
I went ahead and picked up a set of Torino rotors, bearings, and even the calipers. The inside bearing and the grease seal were both just a hair too big but I got those changed out. I'm going to have to look for a different caliper though because the Torino ones are HUGE. Plus there seems to be a pretty large offset between the center of the rotor and the disk. It puts the disk almost flush with the back of the spindle.
So after seeing my setup (Torino) and what it would take to get it in plus the insane weight of the entire thing I think I'm going a different direction. I'm going to do the HenryJCars.com - Robert Wylie setup using the stock hubs, Concorde disks, and Camero calipers. According to the info I found the Concorde rotors have the same bolt pattern as the Torino's so I can use the same wheels I'd thought about using.
It doesn't specify the year of camaro on the calipers, I don't remember which ones I ended up with but I know it was 3 tries before I got the right ones. Maybe my old thread says what year they are ? Page 16 on my build thread, they were 85 camaro not 78 like is mentioned in the article.
Best laid plans of mice and men.....
I'd always been meaning to read your entire build thread but I seem to only manage a little free time at work and I hadn't gotten to page 16 yet! Great stuff and good pics, thanks! You said there were others years you tried but they didn't work, any particular reason they didn't? I ordered 1980 calipers and from the info on the order page they seem like they will fit the rotors. Was it more of an issue with them fitting the mounts or the car in general? I know that was 5 years ago but if you remember I'd love to know.
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