2 part primers are not too bad to work with. Again, if abused you get the same "thick" look to the car especially around the reveals and door edges. Also, 2 part primers will crack easy if too much is used. I've been dealing with that on some work done here before my tenure with this company. Then there's polyester primers like Slick Sand and Featherfill. Sprayable bondo in all reality. There's a use for them to be sure. A metal panel that's too close to mess with is good candidate for Slick Sand. Fiberglass is a good candidate for Featherfill. Slick Sand is easy to sand and doesn't build as fast. More control. Still not an answer or solution, more of a final finishing product when filler or glaze is too much to screw with.
Try this simple test find a flat smooth surface like a table top and have your honey pull out a nice hair just one. Now have her put the hair on the table without you watching. With a minor amount of practice anyone should be able to keep their eyes shut (no cheating) and find that one hair with just their fingertips sliding over the surface. Kinda like trying to get one out of the back of your throat.
Being a novice, but still learning here are a couple of things that have seemed to make sense...I recently bought a gallon of Roberlo MaxiFill lightweight filler (made in Spain and $38), and so far, I'm tickled to death with the way it flows/applies/sands - cures fast, and when cured it's very hard. Also a little trick that I just figured out due to the fact that a couple of the first areas I worked on did the "pinhole"/"bubble" after applying primer, I decided that leaving a fan running on the surface for a while, and then using a heat gun on the surface, any potential "bubbling" will show up immediately. Soooo maybe I'm admitting that I don't know crap about body finishing... just thought I'd throw it out there for what it's worth. Shoot me. ahahah
Im not good enough to metal finish all my repairs.Ive did a few but I try to keep my filler at an 1/8 of an inch after its sanded.Evercoat has good products but lately ive been using USC fillers they are a little cheaper.
I know this thread was about filler so I apologize for going off topic. Thought this might help the amateurs like me. Once you get metal work as straight as possible don't be shy about using body filler. Most if it will end up on the floor once you block the panel. I wasted a lot of time dealing with the "islands" like was mentioned earlier because I didn't want to use a lot of filler. My dad did body work his whole life and is good at using his hand to check panels for straightness, me not so much. What has worked for me is either wetting the panel or looking at it while the primer us still wet and looking at the reflection. My expensive guide coats. Lol After lots of re-dos
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