The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bandit Billy, Jun 29, 2018.
I'm liking what I'm seeing!
^^^That's what I was striving for. "As slick as dog snot" isn't quite good enough, "slicker than" is what keeps me in the garage late.
Looks like the Gm mount keeps the crossmember captured.
If you could slide the crossmember straight back ,,,,
If there were 9/16 socket access holes in the church pew to get at the trans mount bolts ,,,
Then it’d be SLICKER than dog snot
I’ve spent all week on 4 different jobs where access was near impossible, custom building tools, working with mirrors,,,10* rotation pull the wrench and flip it get 5 more, flip it again and get another 10. Just a solid week of ass cramps.
On the last one this morning I said fuck this and cut the floor pan out of my way. Making the floor patch was the best part of the week. 45 mins lol
If the frame wasn't already drilled it would have been easier to install if the damn thing slid out the rear. As it was I had to jack the trans up quite a ways to slide that mount under the pad. I should have actually taken a picture of that procedure, it included the frame high on the lift, my sturdiest step ladder, 4x4 and bottle jack up next to the pan.
Nice call on the access holes except the bolts actually set slightly under the isolator so you cant reach them with a socket. I did have room for a quarter swing on the wrench without flipping it over.
Thanks! I was re-reading your build thread the other day coincidentally, in particular the bed build. Did you end up riveting it together? That project is coming up soon.
I think I used 1/4 inch carriage bolts, but found they needed to be ground down quite a bit on the inside for the bed to fit over the frame.
Rivets would have been better.
Good advice! Thanks
Once the truck is all together and god forbid you need to pull the transmission out,,
Is there enough room under the floor and clearance to radiator to raise the trans that high to get the crossmember out?
Or can you fight the gm mount out and in and then not have to go over/under it?
Yeah, the GM mount isn't hard to pull out and then it is pretty straight forward to remove the mount.
Bandit Billy I just came across this thread! Man what a job you are doing on this. Its coming along as nicely as your roadster. Don't know how in the heck I missed it?
Well I don't want to go that far on this truck! But thanks for the encouragement. This truck will be nice but a truck. Ok maybe one roadster show before I drive the wheels off it...and a few mirrors under it.
Great thread, glad I looked again.
I see we are both on the same thinking. My O/T pickup project is falling down the same hole, planning on the roadster show next year, lol.
^^^^ Yep, if all goes according to plan I will do the 2021 Portland Roadster Show. I want to have the truck running by this years show then tear it down for paint. Frames done so I should be able to pull it off in a year.
I had time last night to install the e-brake stuff from Lokar. I thought I had ordered black cables but they were braided stainless when I opened the box. Oh well, when I was finished I had to wipe all the blood off of them from the cuts in my hands. ACE inhibiters and braided stainless are not a good match. Brakes set hard with 4 clicks of the handle. One more item done.
I routed them down the inside of the frame channel and secured them with frame clips I got at the hardware store. Glad it is done and it take too long, had time to hit the watering hole and snap a pic of my favorite bar elf in her new Christmas sweater. She poured my whiskey in a shot glass because she thought all the bandaids on my hands would cause me to lose my grip.
I think I could have a 'drinkin problem" with a gal that nice waiting on me
I started the brake line installation, stated out back plumbing the rear axle. SS is what I like using, not easy but then again nothing really is...'cept hookers and peezy.
Gravel guard added to the ends, for rugged durability and because I had some lying around and it looks cool.
On the right side I ran the gravel guard from the brake cylinder to the line clamp I welded to the axle a couple weeks ago.
Next up is plumbing the front brakes and mounting the master on the firewall. Then frame lines. But I cant do that without a cab on the frame so back on it goes.
I noticed I could really use a cab corner on this left side if anyone has an extra lying about.
This is starting to look like something that vaguely resembles a pick up.
Radiator hoses are mocked up, still have to fab the shroud but a lot of room to play with.
Looks like the shifter is going to have to move back a couple of holes on that bracket to keep it away from the AC vents when it is park but I'm liking what I 'm seeing.
The swiss cheese floors are coming out soon but other than that and the cab corner the cab is excellent.
Lots to do!
More brake line bending, working up front now. SS, tight bends and gravel guard make for some challenging flares, but worth it. You couldn't smash that with a sledge hammer.
Used this HD splitter up front. Nice little piece. Only had flair fittings in 2 of the outputs, the input required a flair adapter but I just happened to have a chrome one lying around from a previous build. The fitting is HD but I bought it at Summit.
I wasn't crazy about hanging the M/C on the firewall but the A518 tranny's girth made it impossible to have the M/C and pedal under the floor. I did find a pretty one at CPP, still have to hang the proportioning valve then I can route the distribution lines to the completed front and rear end. The CPP kit included the pedal, brackets, M?C, booster and valve, I think the application was for a F1 truck or a tri five Chevy truck? I don't remember, of course I don't remember what I had to drink yesterday. Worked great on the 41 though if you guys ever have to follow suit.
I spent a lot of time measuring before I cut the hole, I wanted to make sure I could service that valve cover without fighting the brake booster and M/C while positioning the brake pedal so it was comfortable and safe. Depending on the column after it is installed, I may change the pedal pad to the other side of the arm just to add a bit more room for the gas pedal.
The column drop is a SoCal piece, I needed a 2" diameter drop so the stock one wouldn't work. This one will get painted black, has the ignition key in it and I bought a repop off/on switch plate that will help add to the stock look when it is done. I was happy that there is plenty of room for the key next to the AC vents I am building.
Good weekend in the garage. Lots more to do!
Great looking lines, classy like all your work.
I was asked why the Booster is so high on the firewall when I was only worried about valve cover access. The reason is the proportioning valve that I had not yet installed but was taking into account. I added it tonight in preparation for the rest of the lines tomorrow.
It hangs down quite a ways below the M/C. Better to see from this angle.
No, that isn't blue anodized. It is chrome plated (of course), must stick to the theme, flat black, gloss black, SS and chrome...and some aluminum that I may paint black before this is all said and done. Now you can see the clearance and why it was mounted up as high. My Olds 442 is a royal pain the in the ass to R&R the left valve cover with PB. I swore I would never build a car so difficult to work on and I never will. Dr. Oldsmobile must have had his PA design that one.
Really enjoying this build thread (as I did with the roadster build).
Happy New year to you.
I thought the location of the Booster might of had something to do with how long the Brake Pedal is and the Pad to Foot relation along with total swing of said Pedal needed is. That brake line manifold or idiot light switch, what ever you want to call it can be mounted just about anywhere.
I didn't have a lot of time between bowls today (not that kinda bowl dude!) but I managed to make the front brake distribution line. It is a snake!
It has a ton of bends in it and I covered it in gravel guard. It is exposed on most of the route and again, I like the look.
The last of the coil bends I did on the car to assure fitment. I bent the loops around a spray bomb can. I will reproduce those loops for the rear...
that is as soon as I order another package of gravel guard from summit tomorrow . I will run the rear line along the outside of the front vertical leg and bracket them together off the firewall. The forward facing loops should allow the M/C to be pulled forward to service the booster without opening the brake fluid system (anyway that is the plan). The line you see is routed around the path of the steering column (yet to be installed), as well as around the valve cover. Happy new year!
Tip: Shop Amazon
SS 3/16" gravel guard at summit;
Amazon prime with free shipping (and a foot longer, longer is better );
Come on! $61 bucks cheaper for a skinny slinky? No brainer.
Nice job on the lines and nice tip on saving some serious cheddar
I make it a habit of checking Amazon regularly. I needed a pair of 1.75" SS V band clamps to mount some side exhaust cut out pipes on my truck, $75 bucks at Summit, $28 on Amazon. They showed up and are every bit as nice as the 2.25" clamps Summit sent me for the porter mufflers.
You just have to know what you are looking for and I hear returns are difficult once they label you as a "returner". Summit on the other hand is great to do business with when you make mistakes on your order.
The big A is handy and you can't beat the price most times, but the way they keep pushing Prime peeves me a bit as I'm not a big "consumer" as I once was and can't justify the monthly fee, their return situation is kind of unhandy too, I had to return an item that they duplicated and had to drive ten miles to one of their return "stations".
Another thing is the way they make manuevering their website, especially for customer service type issues, it's kind of hinky for us old bastards.
Agreed buddy, Summit is my "go to" always. But a little savings here and there means more money to spend at Jantzen Beach at Stateline Liquor.
Can’t you split the “prime” membership with a friend/family member or 2? Students get a 50% discount on prime, So sign up for ANY class that gets you a student ID.
You need to watch the prices too. Sometimes the same items are much higher priced under prime. Another trick my buddy clued me in on is shop the “used” items as well if they appear. Many times it’s not used but torn packaging at substantial discount.
I’m really mad that I can’t get fuel perks for amazon gift card purchases. We buy a lot on amazon and that used to translate into free gasoline. My wife said we’ve got well over 2000 transactions. 1 miss delivered to wrong address, 1 lost both UPS fault, and 2 returned items. Not a bad track record. Just A few items have been delayed from the original estimate delivery date.
Want to hear about my favorite amazon purchase???
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