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Y-block confusion

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by bloodyknucklehill, May 15, 2009.

  1. I got my $20 Y-block home yesterday and started tearing into it.. the guy i got it from said it was a 272 out of a 54, which didn't add up to me since the 272 came out in 55, but i thought it may have had a newer engine in it.. anyways the confusion began when i started double checking some of the engine and head codes.. the block code above the oil filter, C2AE, indicates that it is in fact a 292, the head codes as well, but then as i removed the water pump i found another code just below it which read EBV, which is the 239 code.. i'm totally lost now.. any guidance?
  2. 4rod
    Joined: Feb 4, 2008
    Posts: 806


  3. havi
    Joined: Dec 30, 2008
    Posts: 1,877


    It should say EBV6015 if it's the block code. But if it says C2AE6015, then that is what I would go with. Measurements of the bore and stroke are probably in order to be sure, though.
  4. One thing to remember with Y blocks is that they can be mix-&-match, after 50 years. The block code C2AE is definitely a 292 (though it may have been overbored by now). Where exactly did you find the EBV code? Sounds as if it may be on the timing cover...

  5. Sounds like your Y's a '62 or later 292. the EBV is likely on the timing cover and I think they were interchangeable between the 239, 272, 292 and 312s. 20 bucks? Great buy!
  6. vertible59
    Joined: Jan 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,058


    A=Galaxie or Full Size Car
    E=Engine Part
  7. yeah i checked the y blocks forever forum.. the info they have says the block comes from a 62 car or 62-64 truck.. finding the ebv just threw me off a bit.. also the head codes don't match each other, drivers side is COAE passenger is COTE, but i was told it was a farm truck and i know what kind of fixin they do.. "if it'll fit, slap it together we gotta, get that hay hauled" my dad grew up on a farm in Illinois so i think i understand what is going on now.. the guy i got it from didn't ask alot of questions about the motor cause he was just after the frame and body.. Thanks everyone.. and i'll be sure to double check the bore/stoke when i get it torn apart..
    Last edited: May 15, 2009
  8. the "E" of a Ford casting # is usually reference to Engineering, not just engine. When converted to a part # they often are "Z", or "Y", dependent on initial application.
  9. havi
    Joined: Dec 30, 2008
    Posts: 1,877


    I had a similar Ford 351M. Early 400 block casting # (and 1974 date code), each head from a different year, and the pistons said .030". There was a rivet tag above the water pump. Apparently it was a reman engine. Maybe yours was too.
  10. yeah could've been.. kinda worried about internal condition of the engine now though cause i checked the codes on the heads and they were both from a 292 but one has a higher compression ratio than the other.. it's not a huge difference.. 8.1 on one side 8.4 on the other..
  11. In reality, Y block factory compression ratings are higher than actual measured's probably not an issue for you. Depending on what you want to do with the engine, you may wish to change to different heads anyway.
  12. yeah i'm holding out for a set of G code heads.. they're a bit pricey for me at the moment mow though..
  13. the ECZ-G heads are great if you can find and afford them but unless you're wanting a speed monster there are other heads that work pretty good too. I'm using ECZ-C heads on my 292 with an updated 4bbl Ford carb, it should do right-fine for cruising, and looks pretty nice too.

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