would like som input on my 1929 essex!

Okey, i'm a fucking new guy who's onto my first real car project and i have like many others a tight budget beeing a family guy and student at the time.

My problem is, i want to make a old school kind of hot rod but some adjustments has to be done until my income is back on track and for now i have to settle for a small block chevy and a few other sollutions "not that old school".

What i would like your input on, is the rear end of the car, since the frame is actually longer than the rest of the car. Is it possible to make this look nice in any way without chopping of the frame, and what about the rear suspension?
I would recon coilovers is not the most traditional way to go..but what kind of options do i got?

If someone have any opinions/experience with this issue, please help out!

Thanks for reading!



Here's a picture that pretty much explains my problem:

 

OK. This is something you want to see! A well-documented Essex project here in Finland. http://www.waasadata.com/essex/index.html

 

I would absolutely, positively, without question, no doubt about it cut the ass end of that frame off! Use one of the leafs transversely, and whip up a couple locating bars(if you can't find wishbones in Norway). That's about the only way you can keep it from looking like a 4x4.

 

Here's some pics of Kevin's 29 essex... http://www.hotrodchassisandcycle.com/1929_essex.php

 

I saw an older Essex at the Famoso Raceway (it looked like a T) and had a gorgeous frame, even with all the crap hanging off it. The frame was narrow outside the 4Banger engine, then whipped out and followed the contours of the cowl and the body precisely. If it wasnt stock, it sure was a excellent job.

You need to lose the gas tank/luggage rack in the back of the frame. You can cut it off, but you might be able to get some money back if you sell it to a Essex purist who could use the stock frame. Then you could make your own out of square tubing or cut another brand of frame.

Youve got a cool project though!!!

 

Mr Hammarstrom is a great guy and we have exchanged som emails already. Probably he wont have this problem since he's shortened the frame when made it into a two door. But hell yeah, i'll ask him

 

I KNOW!!! It's a lot of mountains and shit over here, but hey! I wont no 4x4 looker..... Use the leaf transversely.. that's one i did not think of! Good idea, i should use my brain more often! Got a 10 bolt axle from a oldsmobile, it came with the original shocks.. can i use those with it? I'm actually not sure what wishbones are, maybe it has another name in norwegian.. I will definately look deeper into this! -Thank you.

 

I had the same issue when putting my Dodge frame under my altered; it was way too long. Cutting the frame was the only way to go. Don't be afraid; it's not difficult as long as you know how to measure and weld.

Hank

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=117334&highlight=split+wishbone
Check post #14.

 

I'd keep the leaf springs.
Mount that 10 bolt on top. Use blocks if you want it really low. Can't get much simpler than that....and it WORKS.

Plenty of cars had parallel leafs.....just not Ford.
You could always make a panel to cover the rear frame rails too.

 

Kevins Essex is just awsome!! He has already offered to build me one of those frames but on my budget that is not even close to an option.. He has the meanest looking essex ever, got to respect his work!!!

 

Thanks everyone for your ideas!

I think i will go for the chop, weld and mount the leaf transversely!
Just have to look closer into the details first
As i go on maybe i find some more questions for you!!

 

can you get me his email? i couldnt find it on his site. send it to me in a PM if you wouldnt mind.

 

What Josh said, keeping the parellel leafs would be easy and function well.

If you have go and do something crazy, why not make truck/ladder arms that bolt to the front spring hanger, bolt under the new Olds rearend, notch the frame for clearance, and run a transverse spring. Super low and seems simple to me.

 

Don't cut the rear off just yet. My boss and good friend has a 30 essex, and the ass end looks killer on his, I love it. He kept the original gas tank out back... I'm trying to remember what he did with the frame rails... I'll try and get a picture soon.

 

Essex and chevy built some good frames i've seen them set up a number of ways transverse and parellel under track T's from the 40's and 50's either way they work good.

Oh yea i love the suicide rear doors on those i just sold a 27 essex a few months ago

 

The frame under an Essex from the 20s to the early 30s was a favorite of early racecar builders because the parallel rails are stout and deep. They often used a Model T or Model A rear crossmember and Ford style transverse spring in the rea and maintained the Essex dual spring front suspension and used a heavy tubular 20s Chrysler axle and the old standby Franklin steering box.

That Essex would make a very nice fullfendered boards and aprons car in the Restorod style, or a wild-eyed mildly chopped and channeled fenderless sedan in today's "old school" style.

The rear springs on the Essex cars are not parallel but wider at the rear than the front. This was an early attempt at roll control.

Actually, I like the crazy looking rear crossmember and the fuel tank at the rear. The car originally had a nice apron that covered the tank and frame horns.

 

what do you think about the overall shape? new to 1920's rodding lol its a 29 i was told that was the only year for handle etches? still cant find a vin but its made in philly and has 60176 stamped on the firewall any idea what that number would be for?model i dont have a clue...any info would be greatly appreciated.. wayne

 

i have a 26 essex and has the front leafs im wondering if i could do away with the front axel and get a 4 in droped gasser axel with all the brakes and stuff ready to go would this work any ideas ???

 

If you think it sucks, what the hell are you doing here

 

Maybe if you guys weren't posting on threads that were 5-6 years old you'd get a better response.

 

Most gasser type race cars used parell leaf springs with a straight tubular style axel set with ford or chevy spindles to get the car higher in the air. If you want to lower the car from stock height a dropped I beam or tubular axel with a ford transverse spring could be used. You will have to change the front crossmember and use radius rods or 4 link bars.

I know of one 33 essex coupe drag race car that uses the stock axel set up and the guy made his on disc brake brackets.


If you use the comon ford set up you can buy adapters,brakes and what ever else needed for it.

 

true but if you get a dropped gasser axel wouldnt that work?

 

Yeah it would work. Sent you an email.

 

had a bad day

 

Might help if you did a little research and learn what exactly you are looking for. It sounds like you are talking about a dropped I beam or tube axle (These are not straight axles). A gasser axle is normally tube without dropped ends, this is why they are called straight axles.
You can purchase complete I beam axle setups ready to install from places like Speedway Motors. (www.speedwaymotors.com/)
Hope some of that helps.

Doc.

 

Speedway offers that so called gasser style ( parraell leaf spring) in straight or dropped axel. That is causing the confusion. To most of us gasser style means straight axel.