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Projects "Wormy Dog" 37 Plymouth with a blown 413

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by r.l.r, Nov 26, 2013.

  1. r.l.r
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 86

    r.l.r
    Member

    Ok, so I have decided it is time to start a build thread for my 37 Plymouth. Hoping it will keep me motivated to get it done. I bought this car off the HAMB classifieds in 2006 (yeah, almost 7 years ago) with big plans, life happened to get in the way with another child and a change in profession. Hopefully, I will be able to make up for lost time.

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    My plans in 2006 was to build a gasser, those plans have really not changed but, after seeing another 37 built into a gasser a few years later within the same state, I have changed some of my design.

    Trying to stay away from the overused Chevy motors, I decided to stay within the family and opted to use a blown 413 :D (yes, actual 413. Not code for 440). I am really trying to stay within the confines of mid-sixties gasser/ drag car. Although, after setting the 413 in to see how she would fit, I was wishing I had opted for the SBC. This will be my first engine swap of this magnitude. Have put big blocks in Nova's and small to big swaps but nothing this ambitious. :confused:

    I pulled the car into the garage last weekend and started stripping it to see where we were at. I am very pleased that even with our road salt and harsh winters, the car survived fairly well. Both rockers will get replaced and a couple spots behind both doors. Otherwise the body and frame are fairly clean.

    So let the fun begin. This may be the slowest thread in the history of the HAMB, glad I did not start it 7 years ago with the purchase, but I will try to add photos when I can.

    Travis
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2013
  2. r.l.r
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 86

    r.l.r
    Member

  3. r.l.r
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 86

    r.l.r
    Member

  4. r.l.r
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 86

    r.l.r
    Member

    413 with a huffer, it is a tight squeeze.

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  5. BuiltFerComfort
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 1,620

    BuiltFerComfort
    Member

    Me like. What will you be doing for steering and front axle?
     
  6. kursplat
    Joined: Apr 22, 2013
    Posts: 287

    kursplat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    neat. any plans to cut down the radiator shell or chop the roof?
     
  7. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 16,923

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    One I did, that went to Germany:
    [​IMG]
     
  8. r.l.r
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 86

    r.l.r
    Member

    Honestly, not sure about the steering yet. Pllanning on working on that this weekend. I am going to try to retain the stack box and going to use the straight axle.

    If I had the skill I would possibly chop a bit off the top but way beyond my league at this point and time.

    Love it.....
     
  9. moparron426
    Joined: Aug 25, 2005
    Posts: 660

    moparron426
    Member

    NICE CAR, that car looks like a great start to a build:cool:

    great choice on what engine to use, any mopar engine is a good choice but the 413 is very nostalgic and will produce some awesome power with that blower, will be watching as this build goes on...:D:cool: Ron...
     
  10. KJSR
    Joined: Mar 7, 2008
    Posts: 2,226

    KJSR
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Utah
    1. Utah HAMBers

    It looks like you have plenty of room to keep the stock steering. I mounted my engine much lower and still made it work.
     
  11. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 5,563

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    Put a 413 Mopar in my '40 Chevy coupe back in the late 60's. It was a tight squeeze also, but a little firewall work made it all fit better. If you're against cutting into the firewall, it might be tight at #1-2 cylinders and valve covers and the hood/fender areas. A little setback will keep from having to do any chopping at the front corners of the engine.
    My neighbor is dropping a 454 BBC into his '35 Plymouth gasser, and it fit in with no firewall setback, but the headers were an issue. Took some crazy changes to allow the primary tubes to clear the fenders near the heads!
     
  12. 36DodgeRam
    Joined: Dec 16, 2008
    Posts: 497

    36DodgeRam
    Member

    Your stock steering looks to be the same as my '36. I think the modifications we have discussed, will work for your car also. Let's keep the discussion here, so others can benefit.
     
  13. r.l.r
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 86

    r.l.r
    Member

    Thank you Ron, I think it is a good start for my first time with this type build.

    The stock steering may be tight, the motor is just wide enough that the steering column is against the motor. I have read a few threads about moving the motor over a couple inches to offset. Trying to stay away from that though. I have talked with Dave- "36dodgeram", he moved the steering box back 6 inches, cut the column 6" and added 6" to drag link. That currently is my #1 option. Anything post 1970 like Vega steering is not an option at this point.


    I am really trying to retain everything I can, the firewall is probably the nicest part of the car, I really don't want to cut the cowl so anything beyond that is fair game. May just end up moving the stock firewall back 4" and retaining as much as possible. As you can probably see the blower pully's are currently sitting where the radiator was. Currently trying to decide what the best course is with the radiator, steering, and alternator. Once I have that set, I can remove the body and get to boxing the frame and bodywork.

    Thank you everyone for your interest and kind comments. I appreciate it.


    Travis
     
  14. r.l.r
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 86

    r.l.r
    Member

    That sounds good, I will try to find a better picture of the steering so people can see where we started. Thanks, Dave.
     
  15. KJSR
    Joined: Mar 7, 2008
    Posts: 2,226

    KJSR
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Utah
    1. Utah HAMBers

    Oh yeah I did end up ofsetting my engine about an inch which helped with the box clearance.
     
  16. r.l.r
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 86

    r.l.r
    Member

    Stock steering.

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    The motor was actually moved about 3" off center to the passenger side in this photo.
     
  17. 36DodgeRam
    Joined: Dec 16, 2008
    Posts: 497

    36DodgeRam
    Member

    See how the steering box sits on top the frame? Two bolts thru the top, two bolts thru the side. Slide it back and remount. Slide the mounting bracket back. I added a section of heavy angle iron inside the frame, so the frame is now sandwiched between the box and angle. I've added a u-joint above the box, to correct the column angle. Been on the road two years now, no problems.

    This isn't the best picture, but with the fenders back on, it's all I got.
     

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  18. Snarl
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,639

    Snarl
    Member

    I have a '37 Plymouth coupe with a 440 in it. The firewall was recessed back about 2 1/2", and the radiator was moved forward about another 2" to get it to all fit. Using a Mustang II frontend.
     
  19. r.l.r
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 86

    r.l.r
    Member

    Would like to see pictures if you have some available.
     
  20. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,718

    farmer12
    Member

    This is going to be one great project! Subscribed.
     
  21. 4woody
    Joined: Sep 4, 2002
    Posts: 2,092

    4woody
    Member

    This is a B-block 383 into a '38 Chrysler.
    I had to cut (& reinforce) a well into the front crossmember, then the engine would drop down, in, and back better. It made a huge difference!

    Mine has stock IFS, but with the Cavalier R&P steering.

    [​IMG]
     
  22. Snarl
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,639

    Snarl
    Member

    I don't have any that would be of much help to you. The car is in deep storage for the winter and it's a problem to go over there right now. Sorry.
     
  23. r.l.r
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 86

    r.l.r
    Member

    Farmer, I hope it will be half as impressive as your build. You and your project have inspired me to get cutting on mine.

    That is quite a bit to pack in there. Looks like really nice work. Going to remember everyone that has done these projects so when I have questions, I know where to go. :)

    No problem Snarl. I do have a couple questions though. Did you move the whole firewall back or did you just cut along that center line 1/2 way down the firewall and did you use the stock radiator or did you order a replacement? The blower drive sits where the radiator was, so I had to remove the angle iron mount off the front crossmember and will need to somehow move the radiator forward about 3 inches. and try to stay within the original tin.

    Travis
     
  24. r.l.r
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 86

    r.l.r
    Member

    Snarl, I should not say stock radiator. Mine is junk anyway, mainly wondering what you used and where you got one that would fit forward of the old location?
     
  25. Snarl
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,639

    Snarl
    Member

    near as I can remember, its cut out about the same as what's in your avatar. Either you've cut out enough, or you haven't. You should be able to determine that with what you have there.

    Stock radiator that's been recored. Stock tanks, but added a gooseneck filler, I think it's off a '39, but aftermarket will work too. Just made two plates with two sets of holes. one set lines up with the old location on the doghouse, and the other set lines up withthe radiator frame. I run a mechanical fan, and I also have an electric pusher in front if I need it. It would probably cost the same or less nowadays to get an aluminum radiator sized for your application. I wouldn't run the radiator I have with the engine your planning on using.
     
  26. r.l.r
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 86

    r.l.r
    Member

    So back at it, not much to show in pictures. Motor is now mounted permanent, I ground off the original motor mounts, moved them back a few inches reattached with some extra support and they lined right up. I picked up some new springs and mounts for the front, tacked those on, moved the axle about an inch forward to try to center it in the wheelwell. The new springs gave me about 4" of lift and kept my crankshaft under the 24" rule. I am liking the new stance.

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    For Christmas, I invested in some almost new Firestone 10.00 x 15 slicks, a fellow HAMB member Keith had for sale. Wish I could have checked out his bitchin 55 Chevy Gasser, looked beautiful in the pics, white with gold flake roof, Yummy..... Hopefully he will post some pics someday, very classy looking car.

    I really thought I was going to have to cut the wheel wells, but if I move the axles back about an inch they will be centered and not rub, love the new look with those meats sticking out. Plans are for a Quarter Elliptical setup with ladder bars. Still doing more research though. I have a DANA 60 car rearend that I am planning on using from a late 60's Mopar. Tubes are currently getting replaced as they were twsted. I was told that the rearend contained 4:56 gears, thought I would try them, after opening up the unit and counting teeth, 39 ring and 7 pinion, I realized they were 5:57 gears, not what I was expecting. Going to have to invest in a ring and pinion now, UGH...


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    Another fellow HAMB member PAPAJOHN, was able to hook me up wth a set of fenderwell headers that look from the pics, to be just what I was looking for. Should be here right after the first of the year. Thank you John.

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    Things are moving right along, still trying to figure out the steering, starting to look like the original steering box will not work unless I can sink it into the frame about 2 inches. Has anyone ever notched a frame for a steering box?? I am guessing, it will not work. That area would be awful weak. Not sure what to do here, I thought I could move it back but with the starter and trans, there is no way.

    After a lot of thinking and contemplating I have decided to name the car "Wormy Dog". With the new stance, the car looks like a dog draggin it's ass. :)
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2013
  27. r.l.r
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 86

    r.l.r
    Member

    Been so cold here in MN that I have not had a chance to do anything but put the new headers on. It was so cold I had to let my phone sit in the garage so that it would cool down and the lens would not fog. They are talking of HIGH's in the mid teens below zero for the next few days, the poor heater in the garage can't keep up and I wont even try. Thanks to Papajohn for the helping me get these headers, we are not sure what they are from but they fit like a glove with no modifications to the fenders or headers themselves.:)

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  28. Jason455
    Joined: Jun 21, 2004
    Posts: 515

    Jason455
    Member

    Wow I can't believe how solid you're car is. My 40 was almost completely rusted 6" gone from the bottom. Nice progress!
     

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