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wont start when warm but starts right up when cold

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jarhead0415, Aug 3, 2008.

  1. jarhead0415
    Joined: Mar 30, 2008
    Posts: 6

    jarhead0415
    Member
    from Plano, TX

    ok. my truck will start right up when its cold but it will barely turn after its been running for 5 minutes.

    is this a timing issue or what?
     
  2. jimmyv
    Joined: Dec 1, 2006
    Posts: 620

    jimmyv
    Member

    Could be a bad starter motor.
     
  3. Mr.Musico
    Joined: Jan 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,577

    Mr.Musico
    Member
    from SoCal

    check timeing, too far advanced?
     
  4. bumpybigblok
    Joined: Feb 26, 2008
    Posts: 247

    bumpybigblok
    Member
    from Midwest

    The Starter is worn and the armature drags when it gets warm. My old truck has been that way for 10 years. I'm gonna fix it some day, but as long as it starts cold I just don't turn it off till I'm done using it or plan on sitting for awhile. Sometimes it sets a year.
     
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  5. dalesnyder
    Joined: Feb 6, 2008
    Posts: 381

    dalesnyder
    Member

    Had a ford with a bad fuel pump once. Gas leaked into the motor and thinned out the oil. When cold it started fine, got warm and everthing tightened up real good.. Found it when I did an oil change . 5 quarts in , 2 gallons out..
     
  6. tragic59
    Joined: Sep 16, 2002
    Posts: 766

    tragic59
    Member

    Check the coil.
     
  7. deucemanab
    Joined: Apr 19, 2006
    Posts: 238

    deucemanab
    Member

    hit it with a little bit of starter fluid and it will fire right up.my same problem turned
    out to be the carb.
     
  8. 39cent
    Joined: Apr 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,569

    39cent
    Member
    from socal

    I believe that has the starter with the movable field iron. If so, it can be cleaned up or replaced. have to take starter apart, or to a parts house or rebuilder. also check all connections.
     
  9. duste01
    Joined: Nov 5, 2006
    Posts: 1,213

    duste01
    Member

    Push the choke back in. ha ha ha sorry.
     
  10. cadillac dave
    Joined: Mar 17, 2006
    Posts: 669

    cadillac dave
    Member

    check starter draw cold and starter draw hot. could also be the gas is perculating [boiling over] into the intake when shut off hot, filling the cylinders with raw gas, that would make it turn hard. check the route of your fuel line and make sure its not resting on heat sources. cadillac dave
     
  11. roddinron
    Joined: May 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,677

    roddinron
    Member

    What motor are we talking about? Chevy's with headers frequently have a problem turning when hot because the starter heats up. In that case you can install a heat shield, or move the solenoid.
     
  12. First thing I'd check is all the grounds, heat adds resistance and if you have a weak ground connection, you'll find it, the resistance will be too high and it won't crank. One way to determine if that's the problem is to add another ground cable to the block. The lazy guy uses that as the repair; the thorough guy starts checking engine to body ground straps, taking off other cables and cleaning terminals, and so on.
     
  13. Another vote on starter.
     
  14. How close to the headers is the starter? The heat could be fucking with the starter making it loose power when hot. I had that problem on my old 38, wrapped the headers in heat proof cloth and that fixed it.
    Second problem I had was the fuel would vaporise once shut down and make starting a bitch, re-routed it to a cooler place and cured it.
    Doc.
     
  15. Fish Tank
    Joined: May 22, 2008
    Posts: 550

    Fish Tank

    Could be coil, but sounds like a hot starter to me.
     
  16. lost39
    Joined: Apr 4, 2008
    Posts: 113

    lost39
    Member
    from Austria

    It sounds like startersolenoid overheating or gasoverheating in fuelline to carburator or in the carburator??++
     
  17. Lucky77
    Joined: Mar 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,483

    Lucky77
    Member

    SBC starters with the exhaust in close proximity are famous for this. Happened all the time with my circle track cars with higher than stock compression ratios. Usually after racing a few laps then getting spun out and stalling then engine. Really sucks trying to get refired with a hot starter while a few thousand people are looking at you.
     
  18. FencePost
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 350

    FencePost
    Member

    lots of great info here, but how about a little history???
    what kind of motor in what kind of car? carb? FI? points? hei?
    kinda like calling a doctor and saying it hurts when I do this...
     
  19. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,945

    wvenfield
    Member

    I'll chime in on the starter also. Pete Joe gave me this suggestion when my 54 Chevy was doing the same thing. When it's hot and it won't turn over get a pitcher of cold water and pour it in the starter.

    If it then starts, it's the starter. Pretty simple. Worked for me.
     
  20. Kev Nemo
    Joined: Aug 7, 2004
    Posts: 2,453

    Kev Nemo

    +1.
     
  21. jarhead0415
    Joined: Mar 30, 2008
    Posts: 6

    jarhead0415
    Member
    from Plano, TX

    wow. lots of good info guys. thanks. yeah the timing is advanced a hair and the starter is right next to a header.

    i'm gonna get some insulation and wrap it up

    its got a 429 scj, edelbrock mani, 600 cfm holley, jegs racing starter with an 18:1 max
     
  22. S.Sutherland
    Joined: Dec 27, 2007
    Posts: 134

    S.Sutherland
    Member
    from Fontana,CA

    If your running a keyless ignition or some type of switch to turn the starter over and get her going make sure you're 8 or 10 guage wire. I had this same issue with my truck and that was the problem. Use too small a wire, and get too much resistance.
    Good Luck,
    Seth
    BTW... The vehicle is a 57 Chevy Pick Up with a Big Block...
     
  23. 66 Belle
    Joined: Nov 21, 2007
    Posts: 67

    66 Belle
    Member

    Ford big blocks have 2 solenoids, the one on the fender and one on the starter for increased amps to the starter motor. Owned Ford big blocks pretty much all my life. It normally boils down to one of three things. The solenoid on top of starter, the starter or the battery. Rule out the easiest first, have your battery load tested. If the battery shows weak on the load test, replace it.
    If the battery tests ok, then pull the starter and have an amp draw test done, if the starter fails on this test replace it. If it passes then your problem may lie with the starter and heat. You may have to fabricate a heat shield for the starter to protect it from the heat of the exhaust manifold or header.
     
  24. bear39
    Joined: Aug 5, 2008
    Posts: 87

    bear39
    Member

    The starter gets hot and wont turn over go under vehicle and do the tap tap with a hammer it should turn over then :eek:
     
  25. 39cent
    Joined: Apr 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,569

    39cent
    Member
    from socal

    ok here I GO. as 66belle states, fords have a good starter circuit, a remote solenoid usually works ok, however the ford starter has a moving field iron and electrical contacts inside.Sometimes the moving iron gets grungy and sluggish [leaky valve cover gaskets]and then a contact doesnt make up and the contact deteriorates. Cleaning inside the starter and filing the contacts usually does the trick. Starters are not complicated, if you dont want to take it apart and just get another, thats good but, before turning in your core,for your own info take yours apart and see what was going on in there. If you do take it apart be careful that the brushes dont get hung up when going back together.You should check your starter regardless of what went bad, stuff happens when something goes down in the electrical system, usually its a battery, then alternator, bad connections, dirt, heat, etc. I have found usually something has degraded or failed and it causes a chain reaction, and things start happening, so start looking at all the things that may have caused this, and like for us, time marches on and it could just be, old age. gggg
     
  26. chevy6694
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 25

    chevy6694
    Member
    from PSL,FL

    **** I second this, I had the same problem as you checked the starter as everyone else has stated but it checked out fine. It turned out that when the PO did a motor swap they just hooked up the factory thin braided ground strap and when I would crank after it was hot it actually smoked and started to melt the ground strap. So i checked all my grounds and put a good thick one from the motor to the frame and now at full operating temp it cranks perfect everytime. Hope this helps Tyler
     
  27. I've heard of a starter motor to block grounding problem to cause inconsistent starting troubles. In this case, the aluminum starter motor case had corroded some, as well as the iron block. The mounting bolts weren't enough to properly ground the starter motor. This was on a 93 stock LT-1 Firebird.
     
  28. I had the same problem , with my 1959 Plymouth. The starter , solenoid switch all oK ! I would say it has to be timing. My friend Trevor found that the car was way to advanced and that was preventing the car to start when at operating tempture. I say check the timing first, before any electrical items
     
  29. My Caddillac did that and all it needed was a heat shield between the exhaust manifold and the starter. When they get hot they don't want to turn over due to expansion and clearences. Good luck, Rags
     
  30. ems customer service
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 2,555

    ems customer service
    Member

    once i had a bad battery that when it got warm would dead short out, when it got cold car was ok agian
     

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