Iam looking for some advise on my build which is a 28 model a tudor sedan.Pros and cons on radius rods verses split wish bones,which wish bones are prefered if used etc,come on guys confuse me more. I am undecided and really want to learn more on this??????
32 wishbones are the longest, so they will clear an oilpan better. personally i think wishbones are better because they triangulate the front suspension and make it more stable.
32/34 front bones have the nostalgia look but present their own problems with steering arms depending on front spring and crossmember which dictates where you put the tierod and how you bend the spindle arms. On most hairpins the stock 37/40 spindle arm lets the tierod pass thru the middle of the hairpins.
The wishbones are cleaner looking, the issue of passing a tierod thru is worth working out, then you've got it right. You might want to look into whether to run split or traditional bones, ala Ford w/ctr mount.
i was thinking of split,attached to frame,doesnt it weaken them when people drill the holes threw them?
Nothing wrong with splitting, drilling A bones. With the dropped axle and dropped arms you can run the tie rod over the wishbone.
Originally, unsplit, they would pivot around the commmon center. when split, one example worth visualizing, is to drive over a speed bump at 45 degrees (cross it diagonally), the I-beam then twists, which isn't the end of the world, just worth considering how you'll drive it. BYW, folks often bush the drilled holes w/tube (dom or similar)
Looking to see more setups if there out there,does it make a diff,if there attached to the side of the frame,(wishbones) or radius rods,
They work fine hanging below the frame as well as in the middle. They are a bit more cosmetic when attached to the frame directly as opposed to a bracket hanging down, but sometimes it needs to to work with a particular frame/ride height.
Hair-pins allow you to adjust caster with a wrench. Bones require more signifigant measures. Proper geometry is crucial in either case.
Second consideration worth looking at, is the tie rod style mount vs. a captive bushing style. If they're split wishbones, I'd want a spherical-free-to-rotate type, so no binding when one side rises while the other bone falls.
I think he is looking for advise on SPLIT wishbones though. As fas as whether the mounts are under the frame on through the frame it is cosmetic. Just make sure that you have all that figured out when you pie cut and weld the wishbone to get the caster right. The higher the rear mount the larger the pie cut section.
Oh boy,now im a confused newb,shakin me head,could u explain this more to me sorry for sounding like i know shit but im learning
Nobody mentioned checking for tire rub on the bones at full turns before attaching the ends to the frame. Tuck the bones under the car as much as you can to be able to do full turns. You can have a plate hanging down on the inside of the framerail, and have the rod end on the backside of that plate. That gets the bone further under the car...and yes it was done by some builders back in the day.
Just refering to the mount configuration. A bushing may flex but does not pivot, the way a tierod end or spherical rod end does.
you've got two things to think about with your mounting position. the caster angle of the front axle is probably the most important. it should be 5-7 degrees at ride height and the mounting location of the wishbones will directly effect this angle. second thing to think about is your steering geometry. I forget the exact term for it but if you are using a drag link type steering, (F1, F100, cowl steering,stock type early ford etc) you need to make sure the line from the drag link intersects with the wishbone mount. I believe speedway has the diagram in their catalog somewhere. here's a pretty good article on the complete subject of solid axle front ends: http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com...olid_axle_front_suspension_details/index.html
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