Hey everybody, Am doing a restoration on a 1956 ford f 100 and would like to get a little input on whether to replace the wiring harness or refurb. Mine seems to be in pretty good shape no cuts or bruises at all, just amazing. Wire is a little stiff but does not crack when bending. Eddy
Since you are doing a restoration and resumably plan to keep the truck, replace the wiring harness. It will enhance it's value and give you tremendous peace of mind. If you were selling the truck, I would leave it alone. Plus, later on, if you do decide to sell it, it will be a plus for the buyer and you also.
I'm doing a 56 Ford car and keeping most of the wiring. My car wiring is fine. The terminals are fused to the wire by some kind of heat process and it is very secure and solid. The insulation is plastic and cleans up very nicely. I use a shop rag soaked with a solvent to clean the harness and restore the wires. I don't believe in throwing away perfectly good parts just because I'm restoring a car. I can't see what your wires look like. Mine are fine. I did have to replace some wires that were cobbled up by a PO. I fixed them and moved on. You don't have to replace every wire because a few are buggered up. I will buy the reproduction parking light harnesses from the inner fender well to the lights because they are out in the open and looks is important to me. I can't repair then to my satisfaction. They will work fine but a good eye will be able to tell that there is a spice. Most guys will say to buy a universal wiring kit $$$ but I disagree as long as it is in good shape. Only you can see what you are working with.
Why fix it if it's not broke? The only problem I've had with old wires is sometimes they don't flow solder due to oxidation. Cleaning them with Scotchbrite sometimes fixes the solder flow problem. Worse case I use a liquid flux and my triple flame cigar lighter instead of my solder gun.
I'm rewiring my '52 right now... but the wiring was FUBAR'd by the previous owner(s). Every time I hit a big bump, the headlights would turn on/off! If it's all in good shape it's a tough call, but I still think I'd want new wiring. Had a friend lose a car in an electrical fire, so I don't want to chance that.
Think of it this way. You finish restoring the truck and 6 months from now the 57 year old wires start to give you trouble. Now you'll have to work around all the freshly restored parts and paint and try not to do any damage. I'd replace the wires now when its all open and accessible. I'm doing it now in my 62 F100... Also go check out Ford Truck Enthusiasts web site - they have a section devoted to 50's Ford trucks....
Thanx all, outstanding info from all ! Everything was working before took out and believe it is pretty easy to replace if something does happen. Built two of these 50's pickups many moons ago, but then they were only 15 year old trucks then. Wife has cleaned them and we are routing them a little better, will try and post a pic when finished. BTW, how do i post my pic on here? ;o)
Those old wires have more copper in them (larger guage) than modern replacements. Use the originals. I would wrap them with shrink wrap or flexible conduit, though.
Just replaced all the wiring on my '57 Stude Transtar pickup. Wasn't that hard and I did not buy a harness. Simple wiring all you need is a diagram, time and patience.
I would be concerned about high resistance, they may be corroded on the inside and cause a high current problem, just like a battery cable that corrodes. find a good meter and read the resistance. You can find specs for ohms per foot.
Since I am a Rebel wire dealer, I say replace it all!!! Actually if the wiring truly is in good shape and the insulation isn't falling apart, go ahead and run with it. You can always replace the wiring later. The benefit to newer wiring is an upgraded fuse panel with built in flashers, horn relay, etc. plus the ability to easily add accessories later on.
High resistance would only occur at terminal ends. Corrosion/oxidation along the length of the wire does not affect resistance. If the terminations are corroded or physically worn, just redo them - the wires are fine. Now, if the insulation is cracked and split, that is another issue. But insulation that is just stiff is not a problem, especially if you wrap it with shrink wrap or flexible conduit.
Damn! I wish I had known there were rebel dealers on here... I just picked up the 9+3 universal kit. Very nice kit, on par with the much more expensive painless stuff I've used in the past.
I would change the wire. I did this once and the wire looked excellent. Wife was driving the car and alot of smoke came from under the dash when a good looking wire cracked the old insulation after a couple of months on the road. Lucky for her it burnt itself in the clear after it shorted out but smoked about 2 ft of harness as well..
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