Hey guys I'm wiring up my 65 f100 and I have a question regarding fusible links and starter relay. The Ford relay has 2 prongs on front and 2 on side.. I have a rebel wiring harness that includes a switched ign signal for one of the front prongs.. However I'm now running a gm 3 wire alternator internally regulated and this leaves an empty prong.. As I think.. I could be wrong and probably am... One wire came from regulator to the other prong. Should I be looking into buying another relay? See pictures... Next the instructions were a little vague on where fusible link should go.. It said on the 10gauge battery wire.. It isn't shown on the Ford diagram... But is on the gm.. And it is attached to the starter relay.. I did not have enough line in the kit to get over to relay but it works perfectly for attaching at the battery.. Seeking clarification if I'm barking up the right tree, thanks for the help. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The extra terminal on the front of ford type starter relay is a 12 volt feed that goes directly to the positive side of ignition coil if you are using point type ignition. It is only hot when starter is engaged, gives you a full 12 volts at the coil for starting, then lets it drop back to your ballested supply.
Bingo.. Thanks you refreshed my memory from rewiring my father in laws old 61 f100 with a 223 inline 6 a few years ago... So if I don't use that post everything else should work OK? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Got another question.. What gauge wire do you gm guys run from alt to battery? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
10 gauge will work, but if it is a longish run you might go to 8. You can never go too heavy, particularly if you have a high output alternator. Don
The fusible link should be the 'source' wire for current to the fuse box. The idea being, as you probably know, if any appliance or wire in the harness fails/shorts to ground and causes an excessive draw, the fusible link 'burns', interrupting the current supply and saving the harness from damage. That being the case, it just needs a source from the battery plus side, which can be the battery plus terminal, or the battery input connection to the starter solenoid. I don't see any reason you shouldn't use the battery plus post connection if that works well with your wire length. As I recall, that is exactly where the fusible link was factory installed on many vehicles I have seen over the years. The positive battery cable terminal had a heavy lead to the solenoid and a smaller gage wire incorporating the fusible link that supplied the current distribution (fuse) panel. Ray
If you need to run the fusible link from the battery, at least get a new battery cable that has the #10 wire included with the terminal and splice in your new FL wire. The extra wire under he terminal bolt looks kind of RR style.
If you are still using the standard ignition, then the second small post of the starter relay should be wired to positive side of ignition coil. Some ignition switches do not carry ignition signal when in start position.
I have a factory switch, for now a HEI gm style dizzy 1 wire and tach, thoughts? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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