Technical Wiring Guru's - 1 lead wire splitting into 6?

I'm doing custom wiring on my 64 Riv's power windows. I'm running one 10 ga power wire into the door, and I need it to split into 6. What's the best way to do this? I was looking into bus bars, but the ones I've found only handle 20A per connection. What about using an isolated bolt as a post type bus bar? Or is there a best practice way to solder or crimp them together? I'm also running a dedicated ground going 6 into 1, and back to the battery.

What I'm doing, is adding relays for my power windows. I'm going to run a dedicated 10 ga lead from the battery (off a ignition controlled relay), and split that into 4, one going to each door, and one going to both quarter windows. There's also going to be a ground coming back to the battery. I'm going to use Ford "One Touch" auto down relay/modules for both up and down at the windows. I'm also adding power vent windows with relays in the doors, and power locks with relays. So 2 power wires per device.

I've watched several videos on youtube of using relays for windows, and it makes a dramatic difference. I have a few relays, so I wanted to put them to use.

 

Sounds complicated but probably isn't really. I'd think it'd be possible to take 2 lives from your power source, each run down either side of the car, and then tap into those at each point that they need to go into a door or whatever.
Chris

 

Check marine Stores . I use 50 and 100 amp all the time .

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea-systems--minibus-100a-bus-bar--P009_273_004_008


Sent from the frozen North

 

I'd use a small fuse panel as your 'splitter', then come off the fuses to the individual motors. This will also allow you to fuse each one individually for better overcurrent protection.

 

20A per connection seems plenty, no?
What do the motors draw?

 

30 amps is a typical fuse size for 10 gauge wire....

I like those marine ones. Or you could use a bolt, and tape it up real well. Either way, you need to be pretty careful that it's not going to short to anything, and there might be moving parts around.

 

I use this type of terminal when I have several potentially high amperage wires to connect.
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/47202/Junction-Block-Stud-Red/
Normally I just use shrink tubing over the exposed stud part but make sure it's well protected if around anything that moves.

 

Nice isolated stud. And overall a great wiring job.

 

I use Blue Seas Systems stuff....here is a good company that I use for marine electrical stuff , but Blue seas stuff can be bought elsewhere:

http://shop.pkys.com/Busbars-and-Terminal-Strips_c_39.html

 

One of my wiring jobs where I used some of the Blue Seas System products....covered buss bar, terminal strip, switches

 

I also used one of these, but don't have a good photo of the end result

http://shop.pkys.com/Power-Posts_c_127.html

 

I'm not sure what the window motors draw, but the stock breaker for them and the power seat is 30 amp. I tend to over-engineer, and was thinking 40 amp breakers. But it sounds like the wires would fry long before the breaker trips.

One other question... do relays need cooling? I'm considering putting the relays and any busses in a plastic water tight junction box in the door. I plan on locating it under the vent window area, or possibly at the bottom near the hinge area. Is this overkill, or a good idea?

 

I really appreciate the replies. I've always appreciated how many pros are on this board. I'll start checking out the boat supply shops!

 

Beautiful work. I'd like to work at getting to that level of quality.

 

12volt.com, has some good schematics.

 

If you want to buy one.

On the fire wall of most 73-9x Chevy trucks. Probably earlier too.

I really like crazy Steves idea of a mini fuse box for the junction.

There's no way I'd stick the relays in the doors. Too much to go wrong, too many wires thru the jambs

 

A 30 amp circuit breaker is plenty; going larger would require bigger wire. The individual window motors could be fused lower, probably at 15 amps (which would allow you to run smaller, more flexible wire to them). I wouldn't install the relays in the door or doors as that exposes them to vibration (like when closing the door), as well as possible moisture even with a 'sealed' enclosure (trust me, you can never really get them fully sealed, and the enclosure will hold moisture if any gets in). Relay overheating shouldn't be an issue. If you insist on installing the relays in the doors and don't fuse the individual motors, make sure you use a manual-reset circuit breaker (rather than the typical auto-reset) as a pinched or broken wire could cause the auto-reset breaker to cycle, eventually burning up something.

 

Holy wiring is that in an airplane? Must have heated seats and a cappuccino maker...

 

I didn't think about vibration effects on the relays. Looks like it's back to the drawing board. The car has existing power windows (except vent windows), and all that wiring is in place and in great condition. The relays I was using for the windows are solid state Ford "One Touch (express down)" items, that were originally located in the interior door panel. So I suspect they're not water tight at all. Each one of those relays has 5 wires (hot in, switch, down motor, up motor, and ground), and I'm running two per window (auto up, and auto down). That leaves me with 8 wires (minus the grounds) to feed through each door just for them. I'm going to see if I can fit them under the interior arm rest, near the door switches. That would be inside the car, and out of the weather.

I'm going to have to run wire for the vent window motor, and power lock actuators. They're both going to use standard relays, so it does make more sense to keep them inside. I'll centralize them under the dash near the fuse block.

I appreciate the questioning, it's exactly what I'm looking for.

 

Also, does anyone know of some type of overload protection relay? The motors I'm trying out for the vent windows are small gear reduction units meant for industrial use (Pittman GM8712, 8 RPM). I'm wanting to try them because they are high torque and cost a small fraction of GM vent window motors. I don't think they have a "off"' built into them like window motors do. I'm assuming they'll just stall when full travel is reached, but I've read that serious amps can be built up and fry wiring. I really like my car, and don't want it to burn down.

 

What is the part number of that Jegs piece. I like that.

 

Seems to me that there are a whole lot of power windows that work ok without relays.....I'd go the simple route, and not try to use them. If you have problems with a motor running slow, spend some time fixing the cause of the problem (mechanical alignment, lubrication, wear, electric resistance in the switch or terminals, etc).

It's a challenge to safely run that many large wires into a moving door.

 

Actually, I'm trying to cover it on all fronts. Relays to get a strong current to the motor, but I've also reconditioned the motors, and I'm working on replacing the seized rollers with ball bearings meant for a remote control car gas motor. I have to do some light machining to get them to mount, so it's a work in progress. I've watched a few videos on youtube, and I'm consistently impressed by how much better the windows work when on relays. Although, I do agree about the simple route method.

 

Just a note on the Ford One Touch (OTPDM) window relays. They only work with ford style window switches. Ford's use 4 connector switches, each direction is a positive and ground connection. I was trying it with GM window switches, which only connect positive. With a GM switch, I'm sending current into the relay at the wrong place. I don't think there's a way around it.

I found a company called DEI that sells a module that does the same, and can be wired into an alarm. I might go that way.