Wiring 101

I love every time this thread pops back up, always something different to learn......I love wiring cars or houses the preciseness, the routing of wires, the correct connections and even trouble shooting my fuck ups.....lol.

 

I believe you would use the source ground.

 

I am way late to the party, but I was thinking that foot switch was a simple on off switch, as I have a couple like it and that is what they are. But.... I think there are some “ variables “ out there. Just not as common as the on/off ones. Might want to look around sewing machines, maybe.








Bones

 

I'm not a car audio guy, so I'm not sure about this, but I think the source ground is to connect the ground from the audio source (i.e. cd player, mp3 player, etc) to eliminate ground loops between the two units. For the speaker out connections I would think they should have their own ground, but if not I would probably use the power ground. Either way should work, just trying to eliminate ground loops which can cause a hum or buzz in the audio.

 

I think that is correct also, although it still leaves the dilemma of where to attach the other speaker wire. I have called the local car stereo guy, even logged into a forum, haven't gotten an answer. But I did cut up an RCA cable and spliced it to my output wires to use those 'low level' RCA jacks. It did play but very quietly. I think that problem is because I am trying to play music out of my cell phone earbud jack and it doesn't have the power for the amp to recognize.

 

That is what I ended up going with. The foot controls I had in my stash are just simple Off/On switches. So I am using one of them ahead of the control box which has the variable speed knob. That should work just fine. If I need to go slower, I just stop......then adjust the knob slightly and step on the pedal again.
I know my welder has a variable pedal, but not sure just how it works in conjunction with the torch output. Have a sewing machine too, so might look just to see how it works......but at this point I'm pretty well comitted to the Off/On pedal.

 

Functionally that sounds like the right way to do it.

 

I have no doubt, you will get-er-done! Lol Let us know how it works out!








Bones

 

On my coupe, I couldn't find a place for the dimmer switch. I think someone mentioned using the horn button as a dimmer .
Excellent idea. Using a latching relay for the dimmer. could I switch the horn button from blowing the horn to dimming the headlights with a switch on the ground.
I am having trouble figuring out how to wire this circuit. Any help would be appreciated.

Reyn

 

I have two headlight relays in the fuse box. One for high the other for low beam. The more I think about this, I think the Latching relay will have to have all grounds to it. I will try to add a diagram.

 

@reyn , this might help. Post questions here.


This is a VW locking relay for high/low beam. Using mementary switch, like your Horn button, each time it is grounded it switches from low/high or high/low.
Just follow my hand written notes on the wiring diagram.
Where diagram shows low, connect to low beam relay. High output on diagram controls your high beam relay.
Hope this helps.

 

Can anyone tell me if this will work.

pprather That page doesn't work.

 

Your latching relay diagram is not the same as my diagram.
The 'S' post is the momentary ground.
56 is power from headlight switch.

111 941 583 is part number for VW locking relay.

 

It is the same switch. I am using 56, 56a and 56b with grounds. The headlight fuse powers the headlights through the relays so I have to run the grounds through the latching relay to control the headlights. Kind of a backwards situation which should work.

 

Remember, the headlight switch powers the locking dimmer switch. The dimmer switch activates a relay turning on the lights. It's a series of switches.
My diagram came from Rod & Custom magazine several years ago. I did the install on my rod and it works great.

 

Here is a headlight wiring diagram.

 

No, it won't. On the latching relay you show 56 going to ground. It should be power from the headlight switch.

 

That is exactly the way I had mine set up. The latching relay is the dimmer. There is power to the headlights already as the dimmer with a toggle switch to change to switch between horn and dimmer. Maybe a little hard to understand. I hope I am explaining it right.

 

The latching relay is to switch from high beam to low beam, commonly called a dimmer switch.
I suggest you need two separate switches (buttons). One for horn to ground, one for dimmer latch to ground.
Using one button for two functions is probably possible, but cumbersome and dangerous.

 

How would the lights turn off if one headlight relay or the other would always be grounded by latching relay?


Sent from my Nokia 2.3 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

That is a good question. It will work if I just use the latching relay. Then the full power of the lights would go through the light switch and I am defeating the purpose of the hi and lo relays. Flipping the dash switch to the horn position would shut off the lights.

 

The relay stays in the last position (with either hi or lo beams on) until it is tripped the other way; so removing the ground would not effect it.

If you removed the wires from the 30 & 86 terminals on your head light relays, powered both 30 terminals from your headlight fuses, grounded both 86 terminals, then put power from your headlight switch to terminals 30 and 56 on the latching relay, and wired your double throw selector (dash) switch with the horn button in the center terminal along with the horn relay & latching relay on the side terminals; it should work.

 

I have got this also. It makes sense now.
I don't get the dash switch part. I think it would work the way it is.
I really appreciate the help. I can fumble through most of it, but it is not my strong suit.

 

I thought that you wanted that switch in your sketch to enable the horn button to either operate the horn or act as a dimmer switch.

 

Yes I did. I don't quite understand your explanation. Sometimes it takes a while for things to sink in this old brain.

 

With the single pole double throw toggle switch one way, the horn button will be able to ground the latching relay and act as a dimmer switch; with the switch the other way the horn button will act normal and be able to ground the horn relay. If the switch is in the center position the horn button won't do anything.

 

Got it. Thanks for the help.

 

Except for the dual function horn ring, this is the set up I will be using in my 28 RPU; however, on the latching relay power to terminal 30 will be from accessary on and power to terminal 56 from the headlight switch will allow me to flash the headlights during the day when the headlights are not on. Is my understanding correct? Thanks

 

Don't think you can set this up to flash your headlights. 30 only provides powers the coil and is momentary grounded at S to flip the relay. If the relay is tripped without power input from the headlight switch at 56; there will be no output at 56A or 56B and nothing will light up.

 

In the for what it's worth department, I wired up this setup on the bench today. There must be some funky wiring in the latching relay because the headlights will flash if accessary power is supplied to terminal 30 and the headlight switch is off. It's a quick flash, but a flash nevertheless.