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Technical Winters V8 Quick change fluid level

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by nick01psd, Mar 6, 2017.

  1. nick01psd
    Joined: May 30, 2013
    Posts: 26

    nick01psd
    Member

    I was wondering if anyone knows how many quarts it takes to fill the V8 winters quick change rear (closed system with stock bells) 1-3/4 below axle line? The reason I ask is, they just have a fill and a drain in the main case with just a full and inspection for the rear QC case... yes I should have drilled and tapped a fluid level plug in the side bell.. thanks guys!


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  2. chaos10meter
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 2,191

    chaos10meter
    Member
    from PA.

  3. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 8,181

    krylon32
    Alliance Vendor
    from Nebraska

    On the old V8 rears I went by their diagram on the tag attached to the yoke and drilled and installed a plug in the steel bell on the right side. On their latest style V8 center there is a fill plug located on the right side on the rear of the housing. Be sure to vent the rear.
     
  4. nick01psd
    Joined: May 30, 2013
    Posts: 26

    nick01psd
    Member

    I got it used, so I didn't get any tags or anything... it does have a large fill plug on the QC rear section, but it's (kinda) sealed off from the main gear ring and pinion...


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  5. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 8,181

    krylon32
    Alliance Vendor
    from Nebraska

    They call the large plug an inspection plug, but it can be used to fill the spur gears. On one like you have I had a plug in the top of the case and I filled it thru there. You better check but if memory serves me right to took 2 quarts.
     
  6. nick01psd
    Joined: May 30, 2013
    Posts: 26

    nick01psd
    Member

    Yeah I have the plug on the top, and a drain... I just don't wanna remove and disassemble just to drill a hole in the axle tube for fluid level, ya know....


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  7. jaw22w
    Joined: Mar 2, 2013
    Posts: 1,511

    jaw22w
    Member
    from Indiana

    If it helps, we always made sure the lower pinion shaft was just covered. Any more and it just got vented out anyway. Never burned up a quickchange.
     
  8. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,323

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    What type of gear oil should be used in the Winters V8 quick changes with the wedge lock differential ?
     
  9. Mike VV
    Joined: Sep 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,667

    Mike VV
    Member
    from SoCal

    Nick, et-al -

    You know that they have this info (and a lot more) on their website don't you ?
    They have a lot of different styles of case arrangements / fill volumes. I think it's more of a measurement. See their website for the best, most accurate info..!

    Mike
     
  10. revkev6
    Joined: Jun 13, 2006
    Posts: 3,351

    revkev6
    Member
    from ma

    not that it helps you but as jaw22w said, you don't need a real lot of oil. my winters midget rear had a large diameter plug on the right side just below the centerline of the axle. I would fill it until I could just barely reach the tip of my finger into the oil level from that hole...

    very scientific I know lol

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Pewsplace
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,800

    Pewsplace
    Member

    It has been a while but I used 2 qts which filled above the lower shaft.

    IMG_0027.jpg cuwd.jpg
     
  12. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 3,084

    GearheadsQCE
    Alliance Vendor

    Nick, et-al (I like that)
    The proper level is right at the center line of the QC gears. That is correct no matter the volume of your particular combination. I think from your description you have the side plug in the change gear cavity. That should give you the visual you need.
    You can fill both sections from either compartment. Even if the lower shaft bearing is sealed (which it probably isn't) fluid will transfer from one to the other. What I do, is put two quarts in the main cavity with the plug out of the change gear housing. If there is no fluid at the sight plug in about 20 minutes you can add another 1/2 qt. or so. When it runs out of the hole, stop. Put a pan under to catch the extra and then cap it off. If you kept track of how much you used, you will never have to ask again.;)

    As far as the type of fluid, I have run old style 80W90 for years. If you have a differential with clutches you want Positraction additive. I believe that the synthetics are better in every case, but I would go with what ever the manufacturer recommends. I have not had the time to study differences in gear lube.

    Bruce
     
  13. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,323

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    So Bruce for the Winters wedge lock that I have in my new nostalgia QC, is that considered a "posi " unit requiring special additive ?
    Or will regular 80W90 work ?
    Larry.
     
  14. ago
    Joined: Oct 12, 2005
    Posts: 2,199

    ago
    Member
    from pgh. pa.

    Mobil 1 synthetic 80/90W
     
  15. Blake 27
    Joined: Apr 10, 2016
    Posts: 1,343

    Blake 27

    From Winters. winters002-001.jpg
     
  16. nick01psd
    Joined: May 30, 2013
    Posts: 26

    nick01psd
    Member

    Thanks Bruce!! Yeah I added 2 1/2 quarts in the main case and left the inspection plug out till it drained out and stopped.. just takes a few beers waiting for it! Lol thanks again!!


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  17. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 3,084

    GearheadsQCE
    Alliance Vendor

    The old 'drink beer until the fluid comes out' method.
    Works for me

    Larry,
    There are no clutches in the wedge lock. No additive needed.
    Mobil 1 Synthetic is fine.
     
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  18. gearheadbill
    Joined: Oct 11, 2002
    Posts: 1,313

    gearheadbill
    Member

    I have a related question. Never had a quick change before. A friend just told me that I should be venting my new (2015) Winters out of the side bell; not the top of the center section (like I have it). I seem to be getting conflicting information online. The FAQ page from Winters, as posted above by Blake 27, shows the vent tube coming out of the top of the center section. Do you think I'm going to be OK doing it that way?
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2017
  19. gearheadbill
    Joined: Oct 11, 2002
    Posts: 1,313

    gearheadbill
    Member

    Also, while I'm at it, these units just need to vent to atmosphere at a level higher than the rear end... right? No need for one-way check valves or breather cans w/vented caps; just a bit of tubing or other simpleton method. Now he's got me worried.
     
  20. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 3,084

    GearheadsQCE
    Alliance Vendor

    Bill,
    No need to worry. The newest thinking is that you don't want to vent directly above the ring gear as it will sling gear lube into the vent tube and as pressure builds up it will force the grease out the tube. A lot of rears have been vented this way over the years with no problems. What works best for me, is to run a hose up from that port to an open can. Put some air cleaner type foam in it to act as a filter. When you change gears, you just pull out the foam and dump the gear lube back in.

    I have also just vented the axle tube. Not much if any lube there. You just want to alleviate the pressure. A side bell vent also works fine.
     
  21. ago
    Joined: Oct 12, 2005
    Posts: 2,199

    ago
    Member
    from pgh. pa.

    When racing the heat and oil gets much more frothed. That is why you see big vents on race cars.
     

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