Projects Winter project- half ass 1956 F100

I am liking it. So how many projects you up to now?

--louis

 

Chris; I'm sure you know the panel behind the Grill that it actually bolts to is 56 Only. Though the 53-5 parts will bolt up they don't have the relief for the 56 Headlight bucket. What I can see of the Left side one I'd just fix it.

 

I did know that, and I have a replacement. It is fixable, but pretty screwed up. It’s kind of “accordianed” and ripped bolts through in a couple places. It’s not horrible, but I had access to a really nice one that was donated to the cause so that will speed things up

 

After dinner tonight I disassembled the front end and pulled it out. It’s a treat to have new king pins, brakes, tie rod ends and cotter pins. It all popped apart effortlessly and just needs cleaned up and put back together with the dropped axle

 

And a question: does anyone know how the ball on the steering arm is attached? Is it swedged in? I am moving the front axle forward and was going to use a 57-60 pitman arm (to use a modern style tie rod end). On the steering arm I had thoughts of popping the ball out so that I could use the same style tie rod and there as well. I’m not sure if that would work, the hole may be too big. I could cut the ball off and drill it/ream it with a tappered reamer...but I wouldn’t want what’s left if the swedged ball to come loose in the hole.

Anyone ever mess with this?

 

Make a longer hybrid drag link 56 front half threaded tube back half. You have to take the pittman arm end loose to adjust it but it still makes it easier to center your steering wheel

 

Chris; According to Dennis Carpenter the ball is a press in splined shaft then peened.
I would suspect the empty hole in the arm would be to big to just tapper for a Rod end.

 

This was my initial thought and probably what I will do if all else fails?

Ok, it's splined. I could probably cut the ball off and drill/taper the hole and that "plug" probably wont go anywhere. I bet the thickness of the area the ball goes into it taller than the thickness of one that takes a modern style ball joint end, if that makes sense. I will take a closer look and measure...if it becomes too much screwing around, I will probably do what Bruce mentioned, above.

Thanks for the input guys.

 

If your concerned about the insert coming loose just drill 4 1/8" shallow spots right at the seam of insert and arm then zap them with a Weld and grind smooth, maybe on both sides. It won't go nowhere then.

 

Very true. And if the pad is a little too tall, I could always grind it down a little. I guess the only other concern would be, if that ball/shank is hardened, and would I be able to drill it? I can try on the bottom, before cutting the head off, if I go that direction

 

Parts like the Ball generally are induction hardened. That's only a surface hardening, once the top is off it should be soft enough to drill and taper. Commonly only .030 to .050 thick, not all the way through. An easy test that would not damage the arm would be to grind the back side of the ball flat thus removing any hardening and try to drill a 1/4" hole just a short distance into it. If you can do that you won't have any issues changing it to tapper.

 

If you grind the ball off and grind the other end flat, then TIG around the seam it would heat and soften any temper that might remain in the slug in the arm. Then drill and taper it. Right?

 

I would think so. But a metallurgist I aren't.

 

I drilled into the pilot hole on the backside a little and it drilled fine...so it should be fine to modify?

 

Today I did the gross job of wire wheeling and scraping for hours on the frame and engine. It’s amazing how much sludge and gunk gets built up in all the nooks and crannies. Finished it up and glad it’s behind me. I probably wouldn’t have spruced the engine up so much but @Irish Mike scored me those chrome inner fenders, and so it’s gotta be full show under the hood

 

I say yes, but again, see previous comments regarding the fact I am pretty f'n far from an expert. But I see no reason why it won't work. Plus, you're the Ford guy in this corner of the continent, so you can find another fast if you bugger it, lol.
It looks great by the way. We need pics of those chrome inner fenders

 

AWESOME !!! Irish Mike for the win !! Yes !

 

That would be my test and then just do it.

 

This morning I put the springs and axle under it, loosely. Naturally you have to hang a fender on to make sure you’re heading in the right direction.

 

Man thats gonna look nice! subscribed.

 

You have way too much energy....

 

As the owner of an F-100 myself I feel your pain sir. Wire wheeling any gunk off of anything is never fun.


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In your mock up photo- what are the wheel covers off of?


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1955-56 Royal Lancer. I’m not sure if I’ll run 15” or 16” wheels, I need to get it pretty much back together and see what looks best. I have full wheel covers for either size


I do smile walking into the garage and seeing it like this however

 

Chris do you ever actually get time to cruise any of these finds that you pick up all over the place? Seeing the 33/34 in the background made me wonder.

 

I do! It's winter here though, nothing gets driven right now

 

Not much got done tonight. I pulled the dampener to clean/paint the timing cover and noticed it had a huge groove in the seal surface. So picked up a speedy sleeve and drove it on. It probably needs a seal too, but that would mean popping the whole front apart. Remember, this is half ass, right

 

Truck is looking pretty damn good- how much drop do you have on the front axle and did you flatten the front springs or replace them?


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It’s a 3” dropped axle and Posie springs

 

My friends got back from GNRS and brought the chrome @Irish Mike was nice enough to pick up for me and give to my buddies down there...

The seller also threw in a bumper and the panel that goes under the tailgate- all chrome! I got home and had to mock it all up. It’s all dirty but should shine up just right!