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Technical window felt/anti-rattler advice

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by jeffgies, Aug 7, 2018.

  1. jeffgies
    Joined: Oct 4, 2009
    Posts: 43

    jeffgies
    Member

    I'm just wrapping the body work on my 51 Ford F1 doors and it occurred to me that I should try to remove the 'waves' in the sheet metal to which the door glass anti-rattler (felt) material glues; not sure how these bends got there and doubt that I did anything to cause these, but they're there now. The section that's wavy won't be visible when the glass is rolled up. My worry is that the anti-rattler once glued will look wavy if I don't do anything to try and straighten it now.

    On the other hand, if I try to straighten the metal (probably thru some leverage applied from within the door cavity) I might distort the door skin; I would try to spread the levering over as large an area as possible.

    Any thoughts? Anyone encountered this before?

    If it's not clear in the pictures, we're looking down into the door where the window glass rolls down. The vent window has been permanently removed.
     

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  2. 56premiere
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 1,442

    56premiere
    Member
    from oregon

    Wide jaw sheet metal pliers from inside the door
     
    BJR likes this.
  3. RMR&C
    Joined: Dec 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,155

    RMR&C
    Member
    from NW Montana

    May not be room for pliers in there, but it would be easy to make a tool out of flat bar that fit over the lip, I have made several for specific tasks.
     
    56premiere likes this.
  4. Looks like it was factory pressed to me
     
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  5. Chuck Craig
    Joined: Jun 11, 2016
    Posts: 244

    Chuck Craig

    I would suggest that you pre-fit the fuzzies or you may call it weatherstrip on the lip (should fit in the holes that the factory drilled) prior to doing anything as they should cover these as the waves appear to be factory stamping. Just a suggestion.
     
  6. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 1,028

    goldmountain

    Isn't that the factory notch made for grabbing and closing the door?

    Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  7. 54vicky
    Joined: Dec 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,084

    54vicky
    Member

    he means the ripple in outer part of door skin.like others I believe it is streched from stamping
     
  8. jeffgies
    Joined: Oct 4, 2009
    Posts: 43

    jeffgies
    Member

    Sorry, yeah I did mean the waves on the outer skin side....although I think the inner has some less severe waves. Stamping seems to be a reasonable explanation. Straightening the waves will probably have consequences elsewhere. Unfortunately, removing the vent window means that I can't use original style weather stripping or mounting clips.
    I guess trial fitting seems like the best idea, but until it is fully glued, it might be hard to judge how it's going to sit.

    thanks guys
     
  9. martyk98
    Joined: Jun 12, 2006
    Posts: 112

    martyk98
    Member
    from washington

    I think a lot of us have had a similar issue. Paint the inside metal flat black, add your felts and window. The finished product will look fine. Anyone that brings it to your attention has never been there and is a nit-pickin-SOB.
     
  10. IF YOU FIND A GLUE THAT WILL HOLD ..PLEASE POST IT HERE FOR US ALL.. Glue on those spots are a waste...I always use very small sheet metal screws
     
  11. 56premiere
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 1,442

    56premiere
    Member
    from oregon

    ^^^ And if you put the screws only on the highs , the lows won't be noticed
     
  12. Well I feel like you and would want to fix it. In fact I have on several projects. I have a home made tool just for that job. If you do it like I have done it nothing will happen to surrounding material. I'll get you a photo of it right away. I never glue the wiskers in place, they just don't stay. I'll get you a photo of the Fix for that job also. Stay tuned.
    The Wizzard
     

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