my garage floor is 6" reinforced cement , I have a 1 5/8 pipe sunk in the floor that a turned down rod with a eye welded to the end that slides in it took a few hours to drill the 3" hole in the floor but once beyond that a auger bit got me down to 18" for the pipe and its on a angle leaning a few degrees towards the back wall so it wont try to pull out when winching , and my back up is my old cub 128 with a receiver hitch ( best idea other than a true 3 point ) and a push bar that mounts on the back , if I need more power than that then the pick up get the push bar mounted in the reciever , if 400 Hp and 600 ft pounds of torque don't move it then its a statue ...
My garage is up hill with a 20 ft apron to the street, I'm the last house at the bottom of a hill, with a full spool rear it takes at minimum 4 adults busting their ass to push a 2400 lb car in.
i made an anchor point from a piece of angle iron and bolted to the floor against the back wall. i use a sheave (pulley)attached to that and a length of 1/4" cable, sturdy rope would work, and i use my riding lawn mower to pull the cars in.
Many, if not most concrete slabs are poured as a monolith with thickened edges that are the footings for the walls. That doesn't apply to post and pole construction but with that you could use the posts. Therefore a 4" slab might be 12 to 30 inches thick at the edge, tapering up to 4" away from the wall. Plenty of meat next to the wall to sink lag bolts in epoxy and weld a plate on. I have 8" plates embedded on the floor at all corners of my shop as well as half way in between. They were put in to have something to pull the lathes and milling machine into place but work for lots of other things as well.
This is my set up, bought a floor anchor off of evilbay and a warn 110 volt winch from Amazon. Works like a champ , pulled a complete big block Mustang up my mild slop and in the door without any issue. Also good for sending a car out the door as well. Gives you the ability to do a controlled roll out.
Howdy, lots of great advice here ! What I have done is mount my 6000lb warn winch on a receiver hitch, so i can move it around to spot needed at the time ... In my shop I have the receiver hitch ( the female end ) mounted on the floor , I simply install the winch, run the cable out the shop door to the dead car, jump in and use the remote control to drag my self in ! Really simple..
X2 For the redhead anchors , my buddy installs elevators and thats what he uses to secure the base of the shaft (no laughing guys) to the concrete pad .
I need to take a picture of a winch I picked up. Its powered by a....get this,a chainsaw engine! Damn thing works great! It has a seat belt bolted to it that hooks around a tree to pull another tree while cutting it. My buddy that cuts trees for a living gave it to me. I'll switch it over to a chain instead of a belt and use it to pull something heavier. Should be able to pull a car on wheels easily.
I agree. Using a snatch block is definitely the way to go, as long as you have a winch mounted on a car trailer or other. The pulley on the snatch block also doubles the pulling power of your winch. ---John
I remember how stoked a buddy of mine was when he bought a house with a big garage and the driveway was downhill to the garage. The snatch block, by itself, won't double the pulling power; just change direction.
Here's why the method I, and others, used is best - it requires almost no time to set up and use. It requires no trailer or other winch or other power source to be available. The portable winch is light - you just pick it up with one hand - and connect it at both ends. You are also right there by the pull - not 30 feet away operating some other vehicle or winch. That means you can see everything that is going on and the chances of an accident are way reduced. It uses 120v power which is in pretty much every shop anyway. No batteries to mess with. There are probably, for sure, stronger methods but if you need more than 1000lbs of pull you are probably doing something you shouldn't be doing.
Haha! I thought I was clever welding a receiver hitch to a trailer but you beat me to it. I was going to suggest Dyno-bolting a receiver hitch to the garage floor [ after welding some flanges to it ] If anybody wants to do a "Tim Taylor" on a Harbour Freight boat winch [ "more power" ] Pull the plastic covers off it and drill 2 holes in it, then wire some H/D cables directly to the solenoids.[ trash the H/F cables ] The results are amazing!!
If you have the winch in the garage, run the cable through the snatch block connected to the vehicle and back to the winch, it doubles the pulling power but requires twice as much cable. If you are pulling with another vehicle, you might need 2 snatch blocks.
When I built my shop I left a length of chain hanging out of the concrete at the front for such events. I also have one tied down under the bar for straightening frames. It's a 5/8 steel bar sunk into the concrete that was welded to a railroad frog and some long steel bars under the rebar.
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