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Will this work??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Al, Sep 23, 2009.

  1. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 671

    from Duluth, Mn

    I am working on a 37 Ford Tudor. The owner before me put in a new floor. He arc welded a sheet metal floor over the original. It looks like the front part had rusted out, so he just covered it. Problem now is oil canning. Can't spot shrink enough to make a difference. If I put a layer of sound deadening down, then covered it with 1/4" plywood, then some more sound deadening over it and screwed the works down to the frame work underneath.. Would this work?? The floor would be more sturdy.. I think??
  2. 32SEDAN
    Joined: Jul 30, 2008
    Posts: 1,308


    If he went over the rusted old floor, I would cut it all out and start over. Sounds like a mess. You may successfully cover it and hide it, but it's still not the right way to go about it. My 2 cents
  3. id cut it all out and start again.
  4. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 671

    from Duluth, Mn

    Can't afford to buy a new floor.. Wife just got out of the Hospital, and after insurance.. I am still looking at a near $5,000 bill.. Would my way work??

  5. moparted
    Joined: Oct 29, 2008
    Posts: 73

    from upstate ny

    if you want rust between the 2 layers
  6. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 30,872


    It will function but as the other guys said, you are a lot better off to do it right.
    a sheet of the right gage metal doesn't cost all much if you were to cut the metal back to good metal and redo it.
    A member in the area might have the equipment to help you fold it and run some beads where you need them.
    That said, one of the reasons that I am redoing the 48 from the bare frame up is that it had a few too many "make do" repairs on it over the years that just don't cut the mustard in the long run. I've finally purchased or have access to the stuff to do it right this time and don't intend to get in a big honkin hurry just because I want it running again.

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  7. BigDanF4i
    Joined: Nov 28, 2006
    Posts: 197


    it will be sturdy, but who knows for how long, if you just keep covering the problem up, it won't stop causing problems, you just won't see it.
  8. Might as well leave it as is rather than do what you want to do. Moisture is going to get in between the two pannels and contine to rust so not much point spending any money on it unless you are spending it to replace the floors
  9. MarkzRodz
    Joined: Sep 12, 2009
    Posts: 533


    You just wont see it til it works loose at 60 mph. It'll look like a lowrider bottomed out and with those drag blocks sparking away.
  10. zombiesarebad
    Joined: Aug 29, 2009
    Posts: 206

    from Maine

    i'd agree with moisture being a problem... i would think that the plywood would absorb it and make matters worse
  11. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,221


    Al, apparently you are in a bind for now with bills etc.

    Sound deadening...don't pay for some fancy name stuff, go to home depot for a roll of gutter/roof flashing. It is hard to find in my local store, but it is there. About 10" wide, aluminum backed stuck to rubberized self adheshive stuff.

    I don't know if I'd use plywood as a temp fix unless it's an indoor garaged car?

    Fix it right when you get straightened out :)
  12. Billet
    Joined: Oct 13, 2008
    Posts: 275


    Get that shit out of there- There must be a shitload of guys around Duluth/Two Harbors that can help weld in the floor panel. I know times are tough, but running around town like Fred Flintstone is going to suck! Besides winters around 8 months long here and colder "next to the lake". If you locate the guy with the welder, I'm sure the sheetmetal will be close. If you patch the patch you'll just end up doing the whole job over the right way later- Good Luck
  13. Screamin' Metal
    Joined: Feb 1, 2009
    Posts: 506

    Screamin' Metal
    from Oklahoma

    it takes no longer to do this right than it does to fuck it up.................
  14. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 671

    from Duluth, Mn

    There is an intire new floor in it from the riser foward. There are no holes. It is underneath the car where the old floor is.. I had to cut threw the floor tonight for the master cylinder. I had to go threw two sheets on metal. The new floor, and some bad looking, but still there old floor.. I could cut the works out from the topside.. There is a floor on ebay, but $225. is a little steep for me now.. Like you guys said though.. I'll have to wait and do it right.
    Billet.. There are people right in my own backyard, but they have been to busy to help me with the entire project. Execpt for people online.. I have had to do it all myself..
    Pictures are kind of hard to see.. Sorry..

    Attached Files:

  15. fab32
    Joined: May 14, 2002
    Posts: 13,985

    Member Emeritus

    From the pictures this looks like a worthy project. If it were mine I would take a break until the current financial crisis passes and do the job right. A little longer getting it done is well worth it knowing you won't have to go back at some point and do it over.

  16. torchmann
    Joined: Feb 26, 2009
    Posts: 787

    from Omaha, Ne

    drill some holes through the top sheet, pump the gap full of oil and screw or pop rivet the two panels tight together. It's obvious the guy who did the work screwed up and didn't put any dryer sheets between the panels to insulate them...
    You can fix it better later of leave it like it is so the next owner that fixes it "right" can be a superhero and brag about how great he is, and you can then say "He couldn't have done it without me":)
  17. cvstl
    Joined: Apr 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,476

    from StL MO
    1. H.A.M.B. Chapel

    That's a nice looking project. Can you cut both the new and old floors out, clean it all up and weld the new floor back in? You could hammer a few beads in it where it's oil canning. If its got a full new floor, just cut it enough to get it out and re-use it once the old rusty stuff is gone.
  18. torchmann
    Joined: Feb 26, 2009
    Posts: 787

    from Omaha, Ne

    Hell, now come the pics...
    it sounded like you were needing to use the thing!!!
    fix it right boudreaux
  19. DrJ
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 9,418


    Until you catch up on your bills you just want to stop the infernal pop-pop of the oil canning right?
    Just temporary like?
    If it's in a double metal area drill a hole right in the middle of it and put a pop rivet or nut bolt and a couple of washers in it. Repeat as necessary.
    Fix it right when you can afford to.
    OR/AND take a BFH and wack some channels in the warped flat piece in more or less the same areas as the original one has it's channels.
    Just temporary like, till you can "do it right."
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2009
  20. plywood huh? sounds like the great beginings of a RAT ROD! car looks to nice to end up a pile of shit, do it correct and save it. keep posting pic's looks like a cool project.
  21. Falcon
    Joined: Jul 28, 2009
    Posts: 482

    from nevada

    I think you'd be better off to cut the floors out and just use the plywood, Better go with 3/4 marine if you can afford it and maybe a foam strip around the edges until you can afford some steel. For sound deadening I'd recommend light weight concrete with chicken wire for reinforcement.
  22. why go 7/8 of the way....the WRONG way? cut it out, buy the new parts, weld in...done. Done right...will probably last longer that you will. I mean that in a GOOD way...
  23. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,527

    Kenneth S

    I'd find another part of the car I could work on, till I had the extra cash to do the floor right.
  24. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 18,230

    from California

    sounds like you need some tar roofing shingles and street signs.
  25. jhnarial
    Joined: Mar 18, 2007
    Posts: 410

    from MISSOURI

    That floor board looks to be a simple project.There should be no need to buy a replacement floor board.Make a template and make your own and save yourself a ton of money.I heard you talk about a stick welder,you might have to borrow someones MIG,or have some one gas weld it for you.You should be able to do this project for 60 or 80 dollars,unless you can find some sheet metal.I already had this posted but not sure if you seen it.

    Make a floor board patch with a minimal amount of tools.

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~

    I drew up a pattern

    Next I cut out where the beads will be on the floor board patch.

    Then I got a piece of plywood and marked out were the pattern will sit.



    Next I placed the pattern on the plywood and painted through the cut out for the beads.



    I then used a router with a 3/4'' fluting bit.From the center of the fluting bit to the edge of the router table is 3''.So from center of the bead,I moved over 3'' and placed a straight edge.Then routered out the flutes.




    Then I placed a piece of 19g sheet metal on top of the plywood and then toped that with the pattern.Then I made a cocking tool out of a piece of oak.On both sides of the flute I clamped down some metal and beat the sheet metal down into the flutes.


    After I pulled the sheet metal away from the plywood it was a little warped.I took a piece of wood and beat down the sheet metal around all of the flutes and returned to being flat.I forgot to take a picture of that.

    I then cut the pattern placed it on the sheet metal and cut it out as well.Then I needed to roll one edge.I just clamped a pipe to it and hammered it over.The roll over went above the fold line so I just cut a v notch to allow it to fold over.



    To fold over the front half I just clamped down a straight edge and folded it over and welded the v notch.


    WA la floor patch ready to be welded in.Its not perfect and I wouldn't use this method on the outside of the car but this is the floor board it's going to be covered with carpet.

    I know this is like cutting a tree down with a hand saw but if you don't have the tools you have to make do with what you have.
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  26. RichG
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,919


    If you had good metal floor welded over bad floor, why not pull up the good floor and trim out the bad? Then fit the good floor into the gaps and stitch it back together? This will save you serious bucks...just a thought. Hope your wife's doing good:)
  27. Shifty Shifterton
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 4,964

    Shifty Shifterton

    I'd be tempted to drill holes thru both layers and plug weld em together into one solid unit.

    The others are right, you really need to remove the old floor. But we all have realities to deal with. Good luck with both the ole girls.
  28. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 671

    from Duluth, Mn

    I sold some stuff I had. Now I can buy the new floor off ebay. Would anyone have any idea as to just how much of the floor I need to cut out?? The new floor goes right up the toe board. It is the side to side part. I wouldn't want to cut out to much..

  29. Think you already know the answer to this, Yes and No, don't even think about doing this.
  30. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 671

    from Duluth, Mn

    Wife's Dad is going to pay for some of her bill. We will pay the rest. Just give them $25.00 a month. Wife wants me to do the floor.. She want me to finish the car. I found the floor, and sold one of my metal detectors.

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