View the video to its entirety and give us your expert opinion. Will it work, Will it hold up. What's about about you, do you have something up your sleve for floors you want to share?
The floor pan is a structural member of the body....it has to be welded in to hold the body together. to answer your question..sure, then sell the car....
I might be more impressed if I saw an actual repair done. I do buy his argument that lots of cars are not worth a complete restoration (after all clever, safe repairs are "traditional") 40 years ago, when I lived in New England, I used metal from scrap washing machines, a hammer to make a crude fit and lots of pop rivets. More recently, I have coated floors, with small pinholes, with truck bed liner - my "theory" is that it seals the floor from water. 5 years is not long enough to claim success, but, no problems so far. I question the use aluminum, will it corrode? I will watch this carefully, as I just bought a slightly off topic car that needs lots of floor repairs.
That's the kind of crap that lot of us have discovered when rebuilding & restoring older cars. Do it right the first time. HRP
On a winter beater, or maybe some small holes ...... maybe, if your not crazy about the car. I’ve done stuff like this ( not with aluminum) on my 500 dollar winter beaters that had one or two small holes in the floor. If this guy is replacing complete floorboards like this you might as well cut out and weld in and do the job correctly if you like/ plan on keeping or the car is worth it.doing it this way is still going to cost money and to Me more time then welding in a replacement panel. My 87 Jetta that I drove a few winters ago cost me 350 bucks, got one day of “ love” and had the piss beat out of it from November to April Then it got junked. It was safe , not pretty. Any car I cared about gets a proper fix
If its a $300 Hyundai with parking dents and a non-working radio, that you drive to work every morning, this is probably going overboard , but it will work. If it's a car you will take pride in, leave this guy on Youtube.
I wonder if he has a series? Volume II How to solve rear axle problems with saw dust. Volume III Knocking Bearings? No longer after some shoe leather Volume IV Fiberglass Mat and You Volume V Shifter Problems? Coat hanger is the new Hurst Volume VI The Flux Core welder and You How to weld and mount 70s LTD steering wheels permanently Volume VII Need tunes? How to put that Sparkomaic in the dash with nothing more than a cold chisel and a 2x4 Volume VIII It's Electra-Frying How to rewire your car with nothing more than speaker wire and Scotch Tape! You can collect them all! Volume IX is coming soon! Solving problems with the multi purpose Milk Jug.
Where I come from a floor repair needs to be a welded repair (can't weld aluminum to steel). Do it the right way.
Unsafe fixes like that gave hotrodders and old cars a bad name. resulting in harder laws for old vehicles in some countries.
Back in the mid 80's in western new york state I had a 1968 international scout that we used for plowing snow. If you were to pull back the rubber floor liners you would have found two street signs (35mph on the left, children at play on the right) held in place with some black roofing caulk and a sh!t ton of pop rivets. Better than Fred flintstone floors that were there before. Full disclosure: plowing was that last stop for that rig before the scrap yard. Chappy
Why think outside the box when you can live outside the box. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
For fixing the point A to B hooptie, go for it. For something you cars about, do it right. I have used the adhesive to mount the hood scoop on my Ford, strong stuff for the right application.
We had a high dollar,beautiful car & what we initially though was a well built 1937 Chevy convertible in the shop to try and correct some wiring issues,this car had been stripped,all the body work was done and the floors replaced along with patch panels by a reputable shop or so we were told,when we took the seats and carpet out we found a hwy department detour sign had been cut up and screwed to the floor with sheet metal screws and sealed with ordinary house hold caulking. I surly hope the patch panels are done correctly,we didn't have the heart to tell the guy about the floors. HRP
Why cant the highway department make their signs in sizes to fit pre-war cars without extensive cutting?
I lasted through it until the statement was made about the 'rivets being stronger than welding'........................
hey, I've done worse....pop rivets are still holding these in. But on a car I care about? nah...I'll do it right.
8:00 mark. This might be a good idea for cars that aren't worth restoring. 14 ga aluminum plate with 1/4" rivets and panel bond is not going to go anywhere. It's not a restorers fix, it's going to make a great patch and safe. I've seen high buck Restores fixes that are far far worse than that video. If the bottom side look is important this ain't for you. But if Jr.'s first car has a soft floor it will be way better than nothing. I swear I though he was going to patch it with that cardboard and epoxy resin coat it. Do you want to know why I thought that?? Because I was just today under a early Firebird fresh out of a body shop, shiney black paint and the front spoiler was fixed up with cardboard. Geeeeeeze oh Pete!
Des, dem, dos, dat, dis. Aluminum will corrode as badly as steel and aluminum in contact with steel is subject to electrolysis. Many people in Wisconsin bought aluminum trailers thinking they won't rust but they corrode. He is correct in that many modern vehicles are glued together instead of welding.
For a quick Barrett Jackson flip.....sure. To eventually sell in the H.A.M.B. Classifieds.....better to do it right.
Disclaimer, I didn't watch the video. Epoxy adhesive on panels is pretty standard and quite often stronger than some of the shitty welds done by the "pros". I have used it on my 36 and its still holding...….and I will use it again.
pop rivets are available in different grades and configurations. If you ask your supplier for "structural" grade blind rivet you'll get it. They have a heavy duty barrel and a shank with a BIG knot on it. It's different than Home Depot pop rivets.
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