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Technical *** Will the groundhog see a banger February 2015 Banger Meet***

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Feb 1, 2015.

  1. Jiminy
    Joined: Oct 25, 2012
    Posts: 322

    Jiminy
    Member

    Here is the banger link list .

    For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

    Flat Ernie maintains the monthly link list. Every month is listed:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498

    Banger basics. another info link list:

    http://www.fordgarage.com/

    http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

    Post #105 of link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=6

    Model B rod bearing insert numbers
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6992484#post6992484


    Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge
    http://www.centuryperformance.com/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge-spg-148.html

    Adjusting dual Strombergs:
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638461#post6638461

    Helpful Model A tools and tips:

    http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps.index.en.html

    Gary in MN's late model Malory distributor conversion for A/B engine:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9147025&postcount=109

    Elrod's stuck head tech:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218487

    Model A generator to alternator conversion:

    http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

    Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:

    http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculator.php


    Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173

    Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"

    http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05


    Chevy Banger Stuff

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465

    http://www.scribd.com/doc/22469332/The-High-Speed-Internal-Combustion-Engine-Ricardo-1931

    Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=10


    T-5 5 speed in a Torque Tube:
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256226

    Maybe these links should be posted early in each months meeting.
     
  2. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 25,912

    The37Kid
    Member

    Yes, But this guy in into late model stuff. Bob [​IMG]
     
  3. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Bob Is that a motor??
     
  4. silversink
    Joined: May 3, 2008
    Posts: 912

    silversink
    Member

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  5. Did you find him before or AFTER the 300 mile trip :D?
     
  6. Picked up a rebuilt Model B starter & NORS pull style switch for my banger...curious if I need a fiber gasket/spacer to go between the switch & starter (like the Model A uses); the throw on the switch only moves 1/8" or so before contact is made with the terminal on the starter...doesn't seem like that would be enough.
     
  7. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 932

    johnneilson
    Member

    Punxsutawney Phil is moving up in the world, doesn't like hole anymore.......
     
  8. keywestjack
    Joined: Jul 14, 2013
    Posts: 93

    keywestjack
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Pittsburgh

  9. denis4x4
    Joined: Apr 23, 2005
    Posts: 3,288

    denis4x4
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Colorado

    Can you show a photo of the NORS switch? I'm also looking for info on the repro starter lever switches that attatch to the steering column. Thanks in advance.
     
  10. So here are a couple of photos of a REM al rod for model A engines. Bob told me he only made 1 size and bored the big ends for A or B. the A size is about 40 grams heavier than a stock rod with babbit. The hammered side at the big end is the result of # 4 rod throw breaking at 4 grand. So Bob says to me that the A rods are not selling so he is going to discount them. Well the replacement rod cost me $160, $10 more than they were in a set of 4. So I bought a new set of pistons, Ross or J&E, they are not marked and I can't remember now. So I use my last good A crank, had it counterbalanced, ground to .020 to clean up and register, ran it with some 4" silvolites. Then new pistons al rods modified for SBC pins. Put all this good stuff in and check flywheel for runnout. Way too much. Back to Taylor for Magaflux, crank cracked at number 4. So on with the stroker! So Al rods with new pistons pins and rings just gathering dust. I look at them sometimes.
     

    Attached Files:

  11. Here ya go;
    starter switch.jpg
     
  12. blgitn
    Joined: Sep 13, 2011
    Posts: 104

    blgitn
    Member

    Just Plain Bill,
    How's that engine coming along? I'm preparing to build an A block with big intakes, cam, 6:1 head, and a single downdraft. c/b cranks are kinda spendy. Am I asking for trouble if I don't use one? It's going in a Double-A that will (eventually) have an overdrive. My goal is to keep up with traffic and still hear the radio.
    ~Roger.
     
  13. A B cranks are spendy and you will have to have at least the mains ground. Should be stronger. A cranks were good enough when that was all there was. One racer ran an exotic over head on an A block but replaced crank after each race. I think it is trying to wind them up too tight that breaks the A cranks. I recently read an article on dampners where they describe the crank flopping around with the weight of the dampners out on the end of the crank adding to the flex. This violent flexing can cause weird things, crank bolts loosening, front crank bolt loosening. My crank is a stroker ground on a B and it was bent severely .015 from one end to the other on the rear main. Mr. Castillo spent a lot of time straightening it finally got it close enough so that a .010 .010 brought it back into register. This was a B, I don't think an A would stand the stress. I have also discovered that at speed the engine is not turning that fast, as an example the car ran 82MPH and was only turning a calculated 3650 or slightly less
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2015
  14. What type of AA are you going to use? I have owned and driven a couple and they were geared pretty low. Even with an overdrive it will be a pretty hard pull to keep up with traffic. I'm curious !
     
  15. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Kindda what I was thinking too Bill
     
  16. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,199

    RussTee
    Member

    Building a banger is never cheap but now the price of a scat crank and rods is not that bad
     
  17. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Has the SCAT stuff gotten good enough to actually use?
     
  18. blgitn
    Joined: Sep 13, 2011
    Posts: 104

    blgitn
    Member

    I want to run a lightened flywheel and V8 clutch too.

    This one's a 31 131" Model 275-A, cut down into a pick up with a high speed (5.14:1) rear end. With a warford it'll do a calculated 60mph at 2600rpm. I expect to stay under 3000 revs most of the time.
    I've had a bunch of Antique Fords over the years, but never had one with a counterbalanced crank (or lightened flywheel). My last T had a stipe cam and a 7:1 Charlie yapp head. It ran like heck with a stock T crank for ten years before I sold it. I'm just trying to gage the benefit vs. cost of a Scat (type) crank.
    I've also heard some about aftermarket distributor cams that allow for better coil saturation. Has anybody here used those?
    Thanks for your thoughts.
    -Roger.
     
  19. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,199

    RussTee
    Member

    for the price I thought the value is fairly good and you know who you are giving your money too still made in china but seemed ok to me have not started using it yet though
     
  20. colinsmithson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2013
    Posts: 383

    colinsmithson
    Member

    Guys can I get a few pros and cons on the subject of Gas Porting Pistons
    back in the 70s when racing strict production class cars (all OME parts) we found small horsepower gains from gas porting the pistons
     
  21. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 932

    johnneilson
    Member

    IMHO, no help. The standard ring package is not correct.
    Better to have new pistons made with a modern ring package, better seal, less drag.
    John
     
  22. I have already commented on the A B cranks, no comment on the Scat crank bad experience there. As to distributor cams the B is the improved and better shape but some vendors sell B cams with rough grind or mill finish has tool marks but Renner's and others sell a good product.
     
  23. blgitn
    Joined: Sep 13, 2011
    Posts: 104

    blgitn
    Member

    Renners; got it. Thanks Bill.
    I'm open to any other advice or tips from the forum.
    R/ Roger.
     
  24. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,130

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    Don't eat stuff off of the sidewalk.

    .
     
  25. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,130

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    Jim,
    I've seen the Scat cranks being machined at their facility. I think they are doing a great job. Pop put one of their cranks in his Rutherford OHV "B" engine. There were no problems with fit or function during assembly. So far, there has been no problems on the road. I personally have reved it over 4200 rpm. Several times.

    I bought one to put into a Rojo headed "T" engine, and will buy another for my next "B" engine that will run an OHV head. I think they are much better then using the stock cranks. Probably not as good as a billet unit from Moldex, but plenty good for my 3 bearing motor.
    .
     
  26. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 932

    johnneilson
    Member

    Has Tom started to build 3 bearing "B" cranks yet with "B" journals?
    I just had one here, "A" journal and broke along the oil passage hole.
    It was a pretty healthy motor and had been flogged pretty good.
    I do like the rods, but need the "B" journal/bearing.

    John
     
  27. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,130

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    John,
    As far as I know, only "B" mains with "A" rod journals.

    Can you give us more details of the engine that the Scat crank was in?

    Maybe pictures?

    .
     
  28. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 932

    johnneilson
    Member

    sorry, no pictures.
    Crank broke in center of #4 throw and followed the oil passage hole.
    B motor, Price 4 port head about 10:1 and healthy big cam with alum flywheel.
    Not signs of bearing pickup, it just broke. A small sign of detonation on the piston, not bad though.
    I put a girdle/5 main and Carrillo's. We will see if he can break this one.
    John
     
    Crazydaddyo likes this.
  29. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,130

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    What was it in when it broke?
     
  30. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 932

    johnneilson
    Member

    Roadster
     

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