A double amen to this. I don't understand wanting low temps. Engine run much more efficiently at 200-210.
Every radiator co sells complete setups now, thats the norm. The reason being, to many people mounth through core fastners, and theere is also the proximity between the A/C condensor, and radiator..... SO They mfg them, and then its fool proof. I pm'd you the info...
I know what he means with the humidity, it's like that here super hot and super humid, I was finally forced to fix the AC on the daily driver, even with the windows down it's terrible, The main issue is when the humidity is higher then 90 something, you just can't get cool, the AC lowers the humidity level. OP have you thought of an oil cooler? if the oil cooler will carry away some of that engine heat, the radiator won't require as much capacity. being up there with cold temps though, you will need to run one with a thermostat
Electric fans on a/c equipped cars need to be wired to come on WITH the a/c... 200, 210 is ok, with a good pressure cap on the radiator. Each added psi will raise the boiling point 3 degrees, when using a 50/50 water-antifreeze mix. Happy Roddin' ! ! 4TTRUK
Cooling Components Inc. as I mentioned earlier in the thread. Find them here: www.coolingcomponentsinc.us.com/NewComp/shrouds.html If you want to use A/C and have the fan come on when the A/C is switched on, use a Trinary Switch in place of a Binary Switch, and before you put a high pressure cap on your radiator make sure that the radiator will handled the increased pressure. Older radiators probably will not so either replace the radiator or get your original recored with a modern type core....