Just bought an NOS Allstate dodge voltage regulator . It's 12v . I have a converted 12v ford generator. Is there any reason these two shouldn't work together?
Ford generator uses a field that gets + to make it charge. I am not sure if Mopar uses grounding to excite the field like GM Delco does. I would not try it without knowing for sure, as it could fry the regulator or the generator, if it's not the same field type.
I just did a search for bench testing a Mopar generator, and got this from the imperial club site: "The following will apply to any car (other than a Ford product) that does not have an alternator. A generator is a series wound motor which consists of a rotating armature inside a fixed field. The rotating armature cuts the lines of magnetic flux created by the field, and from this action, produces an induced current in the armature windings. The current is harvested by the contacts to the armature. The contacts consist of a fixed pair of brushes that ride on the armature commutator. The polarity of the produced current alternates as the armature rotates, but the commutator segments are arranged such that the electrical contacts reverse polarity at the exact right instant to counteract the reversing polarity of the generated current, thus producing a fixed polarity "DC" output at the "A" terminal of the generator. The field winding must be allowed to conduct current or it will not produce a field, and the result is there will not be any output from the armature. Therefore, to test a generator you MUST ground the "F" terminal to the case (the third terminal you see) of the generator, and rotate the armature. A healthy generator will put out about 14 volt (12 volt system) at 800 engine RPM, if it is not connected to any load. Actually, if you see any voltage above 8 volts or so at engine idle on the "A" terminal, your generator is probably working just fine. This is only to see what happens for a minute or so; don't keep this temporary ground in place, it can cook your battery by overcharging it. If the generator passes this test, your problem is elsewhere. The regulator is the next suspect. If the regulator is working properly, all it does is to ground the "F" terminal on the generator through one of a choice of 2 or 3 resistances, to control how much field current is allowed to circulate, and consequently how much amperage is generated by the generator. When the battery is low, the "F" terminal should be grounded through a very low resistance, and when the battery is up to fully charged, the "F" terminal is still grounded by the regulator, but through a 30 OHM or so resistance (12 volt system). Verify that the "F" terminal on the Generator is connected through to the "F" terminal on the regulator, and that the regulator itself is well grounded to its case. If both of these things are true, and you don't see a voltage on the generator output "A" terminal with the engine idling, your regulator is probably bad. (You never say "definitely" with electrical things.) Further, on the regulator, if you do see voltage at the "A" terminal on the generator, verify that you see the same voltage at the "A" terminal on the regulator. If not, inspect the wire and connection. If so, then look at the "BAT" terminal on the regulator. It should also show the same voltage. If not, your regulator is almost certainly bad, even though it passed the "F" grounding test. If you do see the generator output voltage at the BAT terminal of the regulator, yet the battery is still not being charged, there is a bad connection either in the wiring harness or at the ammeter (if so equipped), you'll just have to track it down by visual inspection or following the path through the maze of the wiring harness with your voltmeter. You'll need a wiring diagram to do this. " >>>so, like it says, non-Ford generators use a grounding of the field terminal to make it charge. You have a generator that needs + voltage to the field to make it charge....so, no this mopar regulator will not work on Ford generator. .
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