I have a nice complete 1936 banjo rear axle assy. that I would like to install in my 1932 sedan. it will replace the early " A " style banjo . is this a bolt in and what spring would work best? would like to lower car a couple inches in rear . also planning a Mitchell OD with new torque tube Car has a built 255 Merc , 39 box and 4:11 gears in the 36 rear Thanks steve
Steve, Model A's have a spring on top design. If this is what is in your car then it is different than a '36 design which has the spring mounted behind the axle. Obviously installing it as it is would move your rear end forward which you probably don't want. One choice would be to cut off the '36 spring hangers which some have done and weld on repro hangers that are meant for spring on top applications, others have welded on the model a hangers to the later bells. Popular opinion is that spring over top is a harsher ride than spring behind but I don't have experience with that. There are differences in the model A bells vs the 36 bells which won't allow you to just switch the bells from one rear to the other but I'm not sure what they are. Both rear ends are approximately the same width so that shouldn't be an issue.
Lots of variables... it will work. I don't recall the different widths, but I suspect they're the same, or close. If using the stock rear cross member, you can run a '40 front spring and grind the spring to fit in the cross member. Or, an aftermarket equivalent... of course. Or, reverse the main leaf from your stock rear axle... and go! ***Just had to add, the stock rear has a bent/curved spring and not a spring over like an A. If it has an A rear axle (which lord only knows) scrap that whole idea, and do the '36 w/ spring behind... lower and go...*** 3blap.
I seem to recall that '32 through '34 rear springs are slightly v'ed when viewed from above. Am I dreaming this or does someone else have the same recollection? If I am correct, it may be possible to swap axle housings from your '32 onto the '36 banjo, or you could bend the spring hangers as needed. Good luck. Farmalldan
I'm only speculating, but I think when he said his 32 has a model "A" style rear end he is saying he has an early 32 rear in his 32. The early 32 banjos had a pinion design carried over from the model "A" . The later 32 banjo's were redesigned and carried over thru 34, although 33-34 axle tubes and radius rods are different. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Here is the curve you were remembering. Also note the spring search bolts are not parallel to the center line of the car (I think they are on the '36) Charlie Stephens
I should have been more specific in my question. uncle buck is right my 32 sedan has the original rear cross member as well as the curved 32 spring . the rear axle is also the original but is the early style that has the round torque tube flange and a hollow pinion like a model " A " ( not the later 32 style with a scalloped flange ) I thought I,d read some where that a straight cross spring could be used with some grinding at the top to fit in the curved 32 cross member . thanks again
The 1936 rearend will fit and is just a bit wider and you will not notice the difference . You will have to use the 1936 rear spring but grind it to fit the 1932 cross member as stated by members above. I like to pull a few of the leaf springs to get her a bit lower. I am sure you know that the brakes are different with the 36 being wide five .
You will need to shorten the torque tube and driveshaft. The flange on the torque tube is different and everything is too long. The lengths are very critical as the rear end position is fixed by the spring. The driveshaft length sets the clearance on the bearing and speedometer gear. It should be about .100. Every thing must be dead straight to prevent fatigue cracks in the driveshaft. I ran the driveshaft in a lathe to check runout. I made checking fixture for the torque tube. The bones will have to be bent and shortened and the front mount moved. This will probably warp the torque tube trans end so a checking fixture is needed for that end as well. I made a sleeve and a piece of pipe for that. The sleeve fit the front bearing bore very closely and I could tell if welding the mount warped the end of the torque tube. It had and I had to straighten that end as well. The banjo center section is a different length so you can't just make the 36 torque tube the same length as your torque tube. I can post pictures of the tools made and used. I am using the 32 spring. I made a fixture off the 32 rear end to reposition the spring perches on the 40 rear end. This gets the car to sit as it always did and ride the same. It also allowed me to turn the bells over so I had good bearing surfaces.
That's good info Andy! You need to do a tech article with pictures at some point! What's the goal here? Why do you want to put the '36 axle under the car? Just wondering... 3blap.
How did you repair the warp at the trans end.? Heat opposite the bone mount? Thanks for the information i'm at that stage in my build.
Andy has it again. I used a 36 rear end, ground the spring to fit, etc, but went to an open drive rear because of my transmission choice & overdrive. You have a nice setup planned, just a bunch of work, but well worth the effort
Continental John covered the basics, other things to note are: a) You'll need to ensure that the custom torque tube and drive shafts for the Mitchell OD are to the correct length. You'll need to mock things up in the car and figure out the correct length (my guess it would be the late 32 V8 length). The later 32 rear has the good ring/pinion in it -- and is the same/similar as they used in 33/34 (except for the torque tube and drive shafts - which are longer in the Model 40). b) Make sure you consider what mods are necessary to the floorpans of the car -- as the OD will probably have some interference with the stock floorpans. I don't know this for sure, as I've never used one, but it seems to flash up in my reptilian brain. c) You'll be using the 36 radius rods - as they have the integral spring hangers at the rear. You'll need to ensure that your custom torque tube has provisions for them to mount. d) Brakes: You're probably going hydraulic, so probably not much of an issue. I'd check the bearing surfaces out on the banjo ends. e) Consider putting a 'broken axle' safety device on both sides (as you're building a whole rear anyways). These brackets will keep the drum/wheel from falling off if you break an axle. f) Make sure you torque and retorque the axle nuts to the proper foot pounds - many folks have broken axles because they didn't do this to the correct amount. The spec is: torque to 200-220 foot pounds; then continue to the next castellation providing final resultant torque does not exceed 275 foot pounds.”
Hung my 36 rear in the 32 frame for mock up . Thought I'd share Anyone got some advice or pics on shortening the wishbone. ?
Maybe 35 years ago I designed some brackets for a friend. They bolted onto the axle bell flanges and allowed the use of the stock 32 spring on a later rear end. It has been in use ever since. You could do the same and use stock 46-8 rear bones and use the 36 mounts for the shocks. They are similar to the brackets sold to put a Model A spring on the later axles. You know with the stock spring it will sit and ride right. To use the 36 bones, they would probably be angle cut at the rear and shortened and angled at the front. It needs to be done very accurately. I would start by tacking a front mount on a torque tube and build them in place. A 46-8 torque tube might make them too short. I can measure a stock 32 rear to see how long they are stock. If you bearing surfaces are iffy on the bells, you can switch them side to side and upside down.
I guess my first question is are you going to be running a torque tube? If so, I'd get the TT all figured out first, mounted to the rear, then mounted with the trans clamshells in the front, etc.. This aligns everything as it should be and then the wishbones "know where they need to go". You'll need to determine the wishbone mounting point on the TT - get that all mocked up as well (but don't weld it in yet - as it will get in the way of the next operation). Then, I'd probably look at two different ways to 'align and shorten' the 36 bones. One way would be to heat (big rosebud torch) the rear of the bones (the big forged areas) such that you can bend/angle them more . . . bringing them together further from the trans (more angle, shorter length). The other would be to pie-cut them at the back - to achieve the right angle. I know I'd look at the heat/bend approach first . . . would probably look the best if done correctly. Then, you'll just cut/splice the very fronts of them for the new length that you need - using the new mounting location on the TT (tack weld it in first). I'd get everything bent/angled, cut and tack welded in place - making sure everything is kosher, then finish weld things . . . making sure not to warp what you're working with. Hopefully you're an experienced fabricator/welder . . . if not, get somebody to help you that is. (No offense intended!). Keep us posted on your progress.
Also, I'd probably just use the main leaf in the back for now (to approximate ride height) - mount it in the cross-member and put the shackles on the rear - such that everything is about in the right location and mounted. This will help ensure there are no surprises later on.
Question for "bct". Did you purchase or make the x-member braces which are shown bracing the K-member back to the frame? If purchased, who offers these?
The main flexibility in a 32 frame comes from the top flange in the K member. The K member front legs do hold where they attach to the K member very stiffley. The flexibility comes from the top flange deflecting. It forms a kind of S shape. The legs you added are not as effective as adding stiffness to the top flange. Adding a wide piece with a flange would stiffen it up quite a bit. What body style are you going to run? Roadsters need all the help they can get.
I am using the 36 rear in my 34, fits nicely. Question for you: Do you forsee thoughts of adding a QC in the future? If you do, you may want to replace spring with an A or T spring and replace rear cross member with an A or T depending on spring used. My bud Andy (Thunderbirdesq) does this in most of his cars. even if not planning the QC now, build the frame for one later. Remember you are building Hot Rod, nothing says Hot Rod more than a QC smiling out the back at the car behind you.
I made them and I posted how with plans on my build thread. I'd set you up with a link but I am on my phone. Check my profile. Figured it out https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/bct-roadster-update-june-3rd-2017.995566/page-5
The Jalopy Journal
