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Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by pat59, Oct 3, 2013.

  1. 24riverview
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 854

    24riverview
    Member

    Went out in the weeds in the dark just to prove my point, doesn't look like I needed to, LOL. 59 9 inch but same idea.
     

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  2. NMCarNut
    Joined: Nov 28, 2009
    Posts: 630

    NMCarNut
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I agree, it really looks like the taper is part of the drum. It is just very rusted on. I have had several that look just like that on cars I've saved from the woods. You can remove the drums by carefully grinding the portion of the axle protruding from the drum down to clean metal by using a Dremel or something similar and then soaking for a day or two with a good penetrating oil.

    Worked for me every time.
     
  3. Best way to get the drum loose is spray some penetrating oil in/though/around the studs/axle, then start beating on the drum between the wheel studs (after backing off the adjusters). I've never had this fail to get 8/9" Ford drums off....
     
  4. 1bustedbuick
    Joined: Jan 15, 2004
    Posts: 143

    1bustedbuick
    Member

    LOL!!! True!
     
  5. finn
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 688

    finn
    Member

    Not welded. That drum is coined as part of the manufacturing process. Heat it up with an oxy-acetyline torch and the drum will expand and slip right off (after a few hits with a BFH).

    Won't come off without the torch, and no, your propane plumbing torch isn't up to the task.
     
  6. 1955IHC
    Joined: Aug 20, 2013
    Posts: 636

    1955IHC
    Member

    Get some KANO KROIL penetrating oil. It's saved my ass a ton of times.




    Sent via Illinois Bell Telephone Company's Car Radiotelephone
     
  7. All squirted down with kroil. I'll take another crack at prying and hammering in the AM after a good soak, and if that don't get me anywhere, The 2 5/8 hole saw fits over the axle perfectly. :)
    -Pat
     
  8. mrhotrods3
    Joined: Oct 3, 2013
    Posts: 1

    mrhotrods3
    Member

    I have always just sprayed some oil on axel where You think it is welded and then smack the hell out of it in between the studs and keep going around each stud and if its not welded it will come loose as every time You hit it it will draw the oil into hub Ive had some tough ones that other people couldn't get off come off and doesn't hurt a thing or bend hubs ect. just keep Hitting it with a 1/2 lb hammer it will break loose eventually never had one that I couldn't get off this way,
     
  9. Cerberus
    Joined: May 24, 2010
    Posts: 1,381

    Cerberus
    Member

    Went thru the same thing with my 1936 "special construction" I thought the same thing. The drums were welded to the 8" Ford axle. Thought about it and said to myself, No this can't be. Got out the big rubber mallet, my BFH, big feet with boots and kept kicking & pounding on the drum. When you least expect it, and you have almost run out of energy, the drum will pop loose. See my pix of the rusty ordeal. Before and after.
     

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  10. Well found this pic on the bay, original four lug drums (mine are supposed to be five) BUT, you can clearly see the raised flange on the front and back of the drums. So, They are not welded as many have already said. I'll give 'em a good beatin' in the AM. :)
    -Pat
     

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  11. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 6,871

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    If that's welded it's been turned down.
     
  12. rustang
    Joined: Sep 10, 2009
    Posts: 710

    rustang
    Member

    +1... those axles look like Ford 8" diff....some of those drums on Fords are tapered/convex, and do fit tight.....I don't think it's welded, but may be frozen on good...
    Tom

    Edit... I should have read further, others already gave you the same advice... :)
     
  13. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 6,871

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

  14. JEM
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 1,041

    JEM
    Member

    Doesn't look like a weld to me, that's the taper stamped into the sheet metal web of the drum.
     
  15. frankenfords
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 278

    frankenfords
    Member
    from SoCal

    I haven't read all the posts, but that not a weld. It's a tapered lip cast then machined into the drum hat to keep the drum in place on the axle register. Clean the axle stub with a wire brush, blast some penetrating oil on it, smack the drum with a hammer from a million different directions, and work the drum off. Then wire brush everything again before you put it back together.
     
  16. I Drag
    Joined: Apr 11, 2007
    Posts: 884

    I Drag
    Member

    Think about it...who would weld the brake drums on when bolting the wheels on would accomplish the same thing?

    Anyway, I recommend a HF 4# sledge, thats what I use at work.
     
  17. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,352

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

  18. classic gary
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 497

    classic gary
    Member

    why don't you remove the four nuts holding the backing plate to the axle housing, the whole thing should remove with a few yanks, axle and drum and backing plate....
     
  19. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 27,342

    The37Kid
    Member

    These must make great circus tent pegs for guys with poor hand/eye coordination. Bob
     
  20. R Pope
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 3,309

    R Pope
    Member

    If all else fails, use an air chisel to split the drum from a wheel bolt hole to the center hole. The drum will come off easy then, and it can still be re-used.
     
  21. 5DeuceSled
    Joined: Aug 7, 2013
    Posts: 13

    5DeuceSled
    Member

    Im surprised no one else mentioned this; aren't brake drums ,for the most part, made of cast iron? Cast iron cant be welded to steel. I think they can be friction welded, but not any other way.
     
  22. Late to the party but that is not welded although a little rusty and stuck,,typical of some of the older fords. HRP
     
  23. Sqeaky Hinge
    Joined: Oct 10, 2011
    Posts: 303

    Sqeaky Hinge
    Member

    I have to agree with a lot of guys here , those are some real purty welds , maybe even factory weld quality , seems like a weird thing to do , but , as far as appearance , nice....
     
  24. john walker
    Joined: Sep 11, 2008
    Posts: 1,111

    john walker
    Member

    not welded, but with all that crusty rust, it ain't going to come off easy. clean it up with sandpaper and a wire wheel before you spend more effort on it.
     
  25. raidmagic
    Joined: Dec 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,438

    raidmagic
    Member

    I love people that post without reading the thread. Always good for a laugh.


    btw I don't think those are welded, if so, those are nice welds. :D
     
  26. nailheadroadster
    Joined: Jun 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,522

    nailheadroadster
    Member

    Those are some damn nice welds!
     
  27. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,455

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    apply heat to the "weld" area of the drum with your rosebud torch. the drum will come right off. its not welded.
     
  28. BillWallace
    Joined: May 6, 2011
    Posts: 132

    BillWallace
    Member

    Pound the drum on not off. When you try & pound the drum from the back side it is like the old Chinese finger tube. It tightens up on the axle stub.
     
  29. black 62
    Joined: Jul 12, 2012
    Posts: 1,895

    black 62
    Member
    from arkansas

    vely intelesting...
     
  30. Well got it all apart. Everything inside was completly rusted out and seized up. I used the hole saw to cut that flange off of the drum centers. and a couple BFHs and pry bars and alot of sweat. I've now got a bunch of scrap metal. Now to clean up the rear and get all new brake parts.
     

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