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Projects Why does old junk keep finding me? A '34 story...

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by milosmith, Nov 26, 2020.

  1. So, Howell's does get parts on time? I read all sorts of stories on their reputation, good and bad. Glad you can keep working on that truck. Going to be a good one!
     
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  2. milosmith
    Joined: Aug 27, 2020
    Posts: 62

    milosmith
    Member

    Thanks, gentlemen, for the kind words and support!

    I have to admit that I was nervous about ordering from Howell's based on the feedback that I was reading about them online, but I ended up having no issues whatsoever. I ordered the running boards on-line from their website on a Tuesday, and they arrived 4 days later, on a Saturday. I think the key is to figure out if they stock the part. One way of doing that is to check their listings on feeBay. I confirmed that they also list the running boards for sale there. Logically, that should likely mean that they stock the parts, because they wouldn't want to get negative feedback by telling a customer that they would have to wait for them to be built after purchase.

    I had purchased these real nice upper radiator hoses that are custom made to use when you put a later flattie (like a 59A-B) into the earlier chassis. These look much nicer than the generic 22" long flexible hoses. Third Gen Automotive in TN sells them - part number 40-8262-59A.

    IMG_5794.jpg

    IMG_5793.jpg
    Those corrugated flexible ones look like big bendy drinking straws to me...

    I installed my set of new plug wires before I did the hoses. Much easier to do it that way since you need to remove and clean the steel wire management tubes in order to do it right.
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2020
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  3. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 466

    Jeff34
    Member

    Looking awesome! The engine bay looks familiar . I didn’t like the stock brown wires, and the other sets were a bit “off”, so I called Bob Drake and asked them who made their wire sets. They put me in touch with the company and I called them up to make a custom set for my truck. I like ‘em IMG_0340.JPG


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  4. Jeff Pandora
    Joined: Jan 4, 2018
    Posts: 61

    Jeff Pandora

    Some junk is betters than others like the direction you're going looking good
     
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  5. captainjunk#2
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,388

    captainjunk#2
    Member

    because you live well ? your lucky ?
    good karma .
     
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  6. milosmith
    Joined: Aug 27, 2020
    Posts: 62

    milosmith
    Member

    Thanks, gentlemen

    I had the after noon free, so I decided to take a look at the Holley 94 carburetor. It was a little crusty and dirty, but I've seen worse.
    IMG_5870.jpg
    It is a Ford script body, which is nice
    IMG_5871.jpg
    The gaskets are toasty
    IMG_5872.jpg
    I had anticipated the gaskets were crispy, so I had purchased this new gasket set
    IMG_5873.jpg
    This is the inside of the float chamber. Was the spider at the bottom a rare factory option?
    IMG_5874.jpg
    Some time with ZEP citrus degreaser and a toothbrush cleaned the body pretty well. I fixed the slots in the fillister head screws with a ballpeen hammer then ran them under a wire cup brush in my drill press. I also put some 400 grit sandpaper on a sheet of glass and made sure any high spots were removed on the carb body mating surfaces.

    The throttle and choke plates don't have too much slop in them and they align well with the bores. I checked the plate gaps when closed while holding the body up to a light source. The light showing through was minimal, so this carb should run fine.
    IMG_5876.jpg
    This is the final product. Not much shinier, but it's clean, and all the linkages are oiled and move freely.
    IMG_5877.jpg IMG_5878.jpg IMG_5879.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2020
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  7. Aaron D.
    Joined: Oct 27, 2015
    Posts: 879

    Aaron D.
    Member

    Nice informative post. You certainly know what your doing.
     
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  8. NashRodMan
    Joined: Jul 8, 2004
    Posts: 1,631

    NashRodMan
    Member

    Nice truck and love how you are getting it back together. And I really like how you methodically went through each part of the engine making them right again. Should start up with no problem. Nice work!
     
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  9. downlojoe33
    Joined: Jul 25, 2013
    Posts: 319

    downlojoe33
    Member

    You've got a great find, I hope it purrs like a flathead does, and it seems to me you're going at it in a very methodical way. There's only one thing wrong with it, my name's not on the title! Good luck!
     
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  10. fordcoupeguy
    Joined: Apr 26, 2014
    Posts: 152

    fordcoupeguy
    Member

    Nice solid truck to start with. I did this Chev the past few years and got it on the road this summer. I think I enjoy this one more than all the others! It s not fast, rides rough ,handles badly but its just plain fun. Brings smiles to everyone who sees it,and thats what its all about . Your gonna love it.! small pic truck.JPG
     
  11. milosmith
    Joined: Aug 27, 2020
    Posts: 62

    milosmith
    Member

    Thanks gentlemen! I appreciate the support and feedback.

    I tried to clean up the tiedown posts on the battery tray a few weeks ago, and one of the posts broke off of the frame while I was running the die over the threads. The spot welds must have been weak. Too bad, because otherwise it's a decent tray.

    IMG_5941.jpg

    This is what a good post weld should look like:

    IMG_5942.jpg

    Rather than have it re-welded, I purchased one of the reproduction trays. They are reasonably priced at $35.95 and fit really well. I probably would have spent that much having the old frame welded.

    IMG_6022.jpg

    These posts are seam welded at the edge of the flat on the post, so this one should last for the next 80+ years!

    I just rested the frame on top of the washers for now - I still need to purchase a new 6 Volt battery...
     
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  12. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 466

    Jeff34
    Member

    Don’t know how “original” you’re trying to keep it, but I have a ‘34 battery tray I’d be willing to part with for the price of shipping.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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  13. milosmith
    Joined: Aug 27, 2020
    Posts: 62

    milosmith
    Member

    Thanks, Jeff34, but I am perfectly ok with using the reproduction part. It looks and fits fine. My original is fixable should I ever want to do that.
     
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  14. whiskeyjack
    Joined: Jun 8, 2012
    Posts: 8

    whiskeyjack
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Milosmith- great story and truck. I have a '34 1/2 ton similar to yours, I have been monkeying around with it for 20 yrs.

    Good choice on your radiator hoses. The flexible hoses always look like a temporary fix to me. Do the repro running boards fit well with the UP rear fenders?
     
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  15. Gregm1
    Joined: Dec 16, 2020
    Posts: 21

    Gregm1

     
  16. Carlmac 369
    Joined: Aug 31, 2020
    Posts: 17

    Carlmac 369
    Member

    Great story and great truck. Every now and then I see something like this and fall in love again. Thanks for showing it.
     
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  17. milosmith
    Joined: Aug 27, 2020
    Posts: 62

    milosmith
    Member

    I actually haven't fitted them onto the truck yet. Laying the old part over the new part shows that the new ones are maybe 3/16" shorter. Otherwise, they seem to look about the same.
     
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  18. milosmith
    Joined: Aug 27, 2020
    Posts: 62

    milosmith
    Member

    The door handles that were on the truck when I bought it were not a matched pair. One was an original with some wear, and the other is from some unknown make and model of car. The one on the right is an original, and the longer one on the left is the mystery one.

    IMG_605.jpg
    I didn't want the chrome plated reproduction ones - they just seemed too shiny. I found a decent pair of originals on feeBay. Some cleaning and a light coat of grease on the inside made them turn smoothly and look pretty nice.

    IMG_6054.jpg
    IMG_6055.jpg
    I had already spent some time last weekend cleaning and oiling the door latch mechanism. Now the doors open and close smoothly using only the outer handle.

    One thing I found out is that these trucks have a feature to lock the doors from the inside. You just rotate the tip of the lever in the up direction and it will prevent the outer handle from being able to open the. That's kinda cool and a good safety feature to prevent the doors from popping open if you take a corner while driving...
     
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  19. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 466

    Jeff34
    Member

    I found it interesting on my 34 that the only keyed door is the passenger side. Reach across, push the lever up to lock the drivers door from the passenger side, then close and lock the passenger door. Why did Ford do it this way?


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  20. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,693

    flatford39
    Member

    So you would exit the vehicle on the curb side and not in the traffic lane.
     
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  21. spanners
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,054

    spanners
    Member

    GMH in Australia did a similar thing up until the mid sixties. I think it was so the driver wasn't standing out in the traffic fumbling with a key to unlock and therefore possibly getting pissbowled by a passing vehicle.
     
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  22. milosmith
    Joined: Aug 27, 2020
    Posts: 62

    milosmith
    Member

    When I bought the truck, the bed was missing the rear crossmember. This ties the sides together at the back and also is the mounting point for the tailgate. I had purchased a replacement part, and finally got around to installing it yesterday. It just bolts the bottom of the stake pockets.

    IMG_6068.jpg
    You just have to drill the four through holes on each side. I used a carpenters square to make sure that the edges were perpendicular to the floor.

    IMG_6069.jpg
    I also had a scrap piece of 1/2" thick plywood, so I made a new floor for the bed. The old piece was rough and must have gotten wet at some point.

    IMG_6067.jpg
    The bed wasn't even bolted to the frame either. I fixed that with some extra 3/8" bolts from the coffee can where bolts go to hibernate at my house.

    I do have the old tailgate. It had some homemade hinges on it which I cut off using a 4" cutting wheel on my angle grinder. I just need to order the correct pivot rod and the three mounting brackets that support it.

    IMG_6072.jpg
    It's amazing how much support the rear crossmember gives to the bed sides. They are much more rigid.

    IMG_6071.jpg
     
  23. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 466

    Jeff34
    Member

    Looks awesome! I love it.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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  24. neds29
    Joined: Dec 25, 2013
    Posts: 40

    neds29
    Member

     
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  25. brokenspoke
    Joined: Jul 26, 2005
    Posts: 2,903

    brokenspoke
    Member

     
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  26. brokenspoke
    Joined: Jul 26, 2005
    Posts: 2,903

    brokenspoke
    Member

    There is a pretty nice patina tail gate on Instagram 4 sale
     
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  27. Spooky
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 1,799

    Spooky
    Member

    What a sweet lil ride!
     
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  28. milosmith
    Joined: Aug 27, 2020
    Posts: 62

    milosmith
    Member

    The frame and drivetrain on this truck must have been restored 30-40 years ago. All of the mechanical bits are it great shape and were painted at some point. The backing plates have no rust or damage. Even the spindle bushings are nice and tight with no play. I will grease all the zerk fittings and put some grease on the shoe pivot points.

    IMG_6103.jpg

    All the brake components seem to be in good usable shape too.

    IMG_6101.jpg

    There is a good coating of dust and dirt over everything, but that cleans off with some work. Overall I'm impressed with the condition of the drivetrain so far. It saves a whole lot of time and effort too.

    IMG_6102.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2020
  29. chiro
    Joined: Jun 23, 2008
    Posts: 890

    chiro
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Go, man, go!!! Can't wait to hear that it's running. Must upload video.
    Andy
     
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  30. milosmith
    Joined: Aug 27, 2020
    Posts: 62

    milosmith
    Member

    The gas tank on this truck is under the seat base. Every time I removed it, mouse nest remains, old nut shells, and rodent poop would shake out of the seat bottom. It was nasty!

    Turning the seat cushion over revealed that the spring base was rusted through in multiple spots from the urine soaked batting being trapped in the springs. I ordered a new spring cushion base and the upholstery kit from MAC's in December.

    This is a top view of the old cushion

    IMG_6105.jpg

    And a view of the bottom showing the destroyed spring base and the mouse nest remnants.

    IMG_6106.jpg

    The new parts arrived last week. They look very nice

    IMG_6104.jpg

    I put my mask on and removed the old cover and spring set from the wood base platform. There were lots of tiny little upholstery nails to remove. I sprayed the old wooden base with Lysol bleach cleaner and lots of hot water. It did clean up ok, but the rear section is broken and rotten on one corner (the upper left in the picture below).

    IMG_6108.jpg

    There is a local cabinetmaker in town. I reached out to him on the 31st and asked if he could replace the back rail. Likely he's off for the holidays because I haven't heard back from him yet. Wood Art in Manteca, CA does sell a reproduction piece. I'll decide which way to go when I get a quote from the local guy.

    I spent most of yesterday and today disassembling the upper seat back cushion. Plenty of hog rings and more mouse crap to remove!

    The springs in both lower corners on the seat back spring set were rotten also due to the wet cotton backing being trapped in the springs. I removed two of the best matching coil springs from the junk lower spring frame (the ones with the same number and shape of coils). A cutoff wheel on my 4" handheld grinder worked well to cut them out of the frame.

    You just spread the U shaped metal channel with a slotted screwdriver, and remove the side rings and the paper clip looking things, and the spring comes right out of the frame.
    IMG_6109.jpg

    Here is the replacement one installed in the driver's side corner. A pair of vice grips works well to squeeze the side clips and the U-shaped metal channel back tight onto the spring.

    IMG_6110.jpg
    And this is the bad one on the bottom passenger's side, with the better replacement above it. You can see how thin the old one was rusted near the bottom coil.

    IMG_6112.jpg
    This is the finished repair, with a light coat of semi-gloss black spray paint on it.

    IMG_6114.jpg
    The upper cushion is ready for the burlap to be installed back onto it now.

    IMG_6115.jpg

    I just need to paint the lower spring base with the same semi-gloss black paint. I ran out while painted the upper cushion spring set.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2021
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