The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Slimegreeeeeen, Nov 19, 2011.
Getting the suspension set up and drivetrain mounted.
Mine is coming along.
mine is nearly a driver finally. Hopefully will fire it up this weekend god willing
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whippet grill shell?
Whippet... Whippet good!
are we not men?
When the cream sits out too long...
like lookin at a perty gurl
Just came across this thread. So I started this one in April, body only. Built the frame and used many parts I’ve had around my shop. Seven days after it took its first trip down the road, I did a 900 mike round trip. It has been a joy to drive. After a little more shakedown, it will get torn down for paint this winter.
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Does anyone else out there have a left door with a lock cylinder in a T coupe or sedan? I found a really decrepit door that had one and had to graft it into my car. I have never seen another like it. I remember seeing Canadian T roadsters and touring cars with opening left doors since Canada also supplied car bodies to the RHD countries, so is this another example of this kind of practice? With this car being over 90 years old, I'm certain that none of us has first hand experience with these cars when they were new, so what have you bidding archeologists unearthed?
That’s not original model T parts, looks like old hardware store stuff.
Or possibly from some newer vehicle.
T s never had door handles or lock cylinders like that.
That's the door handle on my 26 T coupe.....
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I'm talking about the door sheet metal, not the repro lock cylinder.
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I duplicated a lock onto the drivers side door as part of my T build.
It was not that hard, but just need to attach a reinforcing plate inside the door and drill a small tapped hold in the end of the door for the barrel lock screw.
Precision drilling and alignment is required, but slow and easy with double checking will win the day...
So no good pic's, just what was found by accident.
Not claiming to be an expert but I have never seen a T door or sheet metal with any kind of provision for anything but the door handle.
Closed 26/27 had a door lock on the nearside. Dunno about other years.
Given what I know now about 26/27 T doors, I much prefer the 28/29 Model A latches (key lock wise particularly), but I think I would go with bear claw latches next time.
I believe in some other countries eventually stock latches will be outlawed in hot rods.
I'd like to see more threads posted covering bear claw installs in detail in both Model A's & T's...
I don't recall all the details now, but the inner support panel that is required, I used some sticky panel sealastic stuff to set it in place, as I could not spot or tack weld it for fear of damaging panel work and primer.
Wife's roadster as of last night....
The stock style latches are perfect in the tiny doors of my 26 RPU.
I used brand new reproduction parts and they work perfectly.
I thank god I don’t live in a police state type country that would outlaw something as minor as door latches
Here's one discussion of factory door locks on Model Ts, from the forum of the Model T Ford Club of America:
That was interesting to read. I'd really like to see more info on 1924/25 closed car latches, especially how that internal lock lever works.
Hey Russ how you doing! I feel like a idiot now because I would have bet money on no locks period. I am going to have to go thru all my pics when I did my doors because I just don't remember any locks.
I am improving weekly thanks.
Nothing to be concerned about with those locks Dan.
I will tell folks who maybe considering purchasing or already have purchased repro 26/27 closed cab latches, to beware as there was a time back a couple of years now where latches with the lock mechanism inside were not working right.
So when the barrel was installed it would not lock the latch as there was an issue inside the main latch body.
I did a repair on mine and advised the selling outlet from which I purchased my repro latches about the problem and how to repair it, but I don't know if it was ever corrected...
I'll try and find the email I sent them with instructions on how to fix it.
I found the information that I sent to the Agent who sold me those repro 26/27 T latches, which were also used in 28/29 pickups.
Below is what I wrote:
The repro latches you sell for the Closed Cab pickup 1928/29 have a problem.
If you install the outside lock barrel, the new latches won't let the barrel be fully rotated and hence the key can not be removed in the locked position.
Therefore, they are unable to be locked as they should.
I have a pair that I purchased from you and now that I am installing them, I discover this issue/fault.
I am not complaining about the problem as I have worked out what is the cause and I can fix them here at home.
However, some of your other customers may not be quite as talented as me in that regard.
The problem is inside the latch body, the main latch hinge pin that supports the catch/tongue that engages with the door pillar, is too long and the head is stopping the full travel movement of the locking cam operated by the key barrel.
Sadly, the whole mechanism needs to be opened and disassembled, the pin removed and shortened to a minimum length to obtain the clearance needed to achieve full free movement.
The head of the hinge pin is the interfering problem and sits high as the pin is too long and the lower mechanism which is operated by the door handle hits the over length hinge pin and forces the head up which then clashes with the locking cam.
You didn’t name the company so what use is this information?
Depending on the company it’s a toss up whether they acted on your information or just filed it in file 13.
I don't know which company made them, because there is more than one manufacturer I am told, so all I could do was pass the information back thru the selling agent who buys from the manufacturer.
Other thing is naming the manufacturer would not be possible for me, because there are no markings to indicate who makes these repro latches and I was not privy to that wholesale sale info.
It is highly likely all agents source their latches from both makers and it is still a toss up.
I've done my part and now shared it on the HAMB with the fix info, so I am happy with that.
No need to thank me...
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