The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Slimegreeeeeen, Nov 19, 2011.
Top looks great.
We put a layer of poly plastic down to keep water from soaking thru the cloth into the car.Just a thought.
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Here's my '27 T coupes. And my brothers tudor. All un cut. Always changing stuff on the hotrod.
Nice. I am a 26/27 fan. I don't live too far away if you ever need a hand. I am in Arnold.
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Hartz cloth is used for convertible tops. It is comprised of two cloth layers with a rubber layer in between. There are no sewn seams, so it won't be penetrated by water. The two yards of it cost about $90, but I believe it is worth it.
I may just take you up on that......
Getting started on my roadster.
I like the start of that already.
I started with a T frame but thats it.
I started on a 26/7 T two door sedan a long time ago, I wish I'd never sold it. I built a 32 style frame from 2x6 tube, round tube x-member, 32 heavy dropped axle by mor-drop, quickchange, 331 hemi with a torqueflite. I had the chassis in pretty good shape, but ran out of steam on getting the body mounted and steering in.
If anyone has it...
I've posted these elsewhere but today I took some pics of mine for insurance and hopefully will have it running and driving in the next day or two, still need the gas tank back from polishing but it's closer than it's ever been.
I installed Model T door check straps and guess what.......It is in the way of the clutch when the door is closed. I may elect to move them up just below the window crank, but I am looking for suggestions. I noticed that '32 3-Window check straps are 10"+ long and have a "T" end. It appears that they may retract inside the quarter panel. Is anyone out there familiar with these and can take a picture of how they are installed? HELP!!
By the way, I'm getting closer:
This is how Blue one made his doorstrap.
More in his builthread on page 28.
Beat me to it
I fabbed mine up with the heavy duty 1” webbing and the fender washers the spring retracts them behind the kick panel.
Clean and simple.
That's slick. I like the track idea which serves as a stop (could be adjustable if need be). I'm thinking I could bolt it in to the door jamb and create a surface to mount the kick panels at the same time. Interestingly, I found this article online where Hot Rod Garage did a similar thing on Ray Bartlett's Deuce Roadster...maybe it is too sophisticated for us T guys....It was in SRM in 2012. HRG is about 25 miles from me.
I like Blue One's solution better!
This HAMB stuff is ALL RIGHT!
In 1997, my wife, a librarian, introduced me to the internet....I said it wouldn't amount to anything. I didn't see a purpose. Want a bite from my bowlfull of words I'm eating?
Well after whining previously about l
ack of footroom and looking at your door check straps, I realize I got lots of room in mine. Looks like Blue One has hit upon a good idea but how will you get around your cowl steering support?
I agree that the steering mechanism will interfere with an easy solution to hiding the straps ala Blue One. So instead, and in the interest of not using up too much time before I must get this car done, I came up with a much simpler solution. I moved the strap up to just below the dash. I used black webbing I got at the local hardware store and sewed a loop in one end for the stock bracket, which is mounted inside the door jamb with flat head bolts thru the jamb. At the other end of the strap, I doubled up the webbing and sewed it in a pattern to strengthen it. I then used 4 sheet metal screws to hold it in place at the door end. The green tape in the picture simulates the door panel which will force it to form a relatively small loop when the door is closed. Sometimes the simplest solutions are the easiest and best.
@rusty rocket, neat little car with some creatively repurposed sheet metal!
Now is that going to interfere with the window crank? The reason I ask, is my window crank runs into the ashtray on my '40 dash.
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Not on the T dash. In fact, I put '40 window cranks on it to gain leverage. I am going to try the T cranks on my '40, which has a narrowed '50 dash and the stock crank hits the area that used to be an ashtray.
The last shot is my glamour shot. I've got the block torn down for detail painting, chasing threads, and getting the engine dress-up goodies. Researching potential coatings for my Geardrive 4X2 intake (fabbed by Matt @ Gear Drive), Zoomie style headers (fabbed by Ian Loska), carb bodies (haven't yet purchased), water pump and timing chain cover (new made in the USA from Russ Martin @Cars aka Nailhead Buick). Also pulled the trigger on a polished valley cover from and a pair of polished Fenton VCs (also through Russ).
Stay tuned as the Austin T Party goes into full swing with a big assist from the fine folks at Mercury Charlie's. Stay tuned.
That sure is a nice collection of parts.
How is Charlie getting along these days, don't hear much about him, being that I am so far away...
26 COOP under its own power:
Please, no comments about the third brake light....I borrowed it off 40 COOP, but painted the body of it black. It is held to the trunk with rare earth magnets and unplugs from the wiring so I can eliminate the non-traditional appointment when appropriate.
Still got a lot to do in the next two weeks, but there is a tunnel and there is a light!!!
I'm getting there. I'm along way from running but its sitting on its own weight right now....
Recently finished. Took longer than I expected.
Still workin' on it.....
This is one of the coolest T coupes that I have ever seen. Stance, engine, chop, color and check out the
nose art on the inside door panel.
Looking good! Third brake light doesn't bother me.....in the back window might work too. Was thinking the wheels would be red, like the engine. Love the no chop.
I have my machinist bore the core (not freeze) plug holes to take a common cup plug. That solves the problem, cheap.
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