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Features Who's Building a T?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Slimegreeeeeen, Nov 19, 2011.

  1. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,054

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I looked at their instructions and see what you mean.
    Hmmm, I have blind steering arms that I am NOT going to change so an alternative way to bleed would have to be found :confused:
     
  2. Skelli
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 16

    Skelli
    Member
    from Finland

    I thought so too.. :D
    Maybe if you take the king pin off and tilt the whole brake assembly.
     
  3. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,054

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Possibly remove the caliper from the mount and have it clamp onto a piece of metal the same thickness of the rotor ?
    The limiting factor would be brake hose length ?
     
  4. Why cant you remove just the calliper, block the pads and bleed them? Seems like a lot of work otherwise. JW
     
  5. Skelli
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 16

    Skelli
    Member
    from Finland

    That could work. If the hose is long enough.
     
  6. Skelli
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 16

    Skelli
    Member
    from Finland

    You can't move calipers alot, since the brake hose goes thru cover plate which is stuck if you can't unbolt the steering arms..
     
  7. papacub
    Joined: Sep 2, 2010
    Posts: 16

    papacub
    Member

    P1010012.JPG
    I'm not too thrilled with this set-up (bought the T as is) I will probably change the springs out to real quarter-ellipticals.
     
  8. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,054

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    This has all been valuable discussion on these brakes.
    Possibly enough so that I won't buy them.
    I can't understand why they (So-Cal) would not just have the Wilwood calipers re-designed so that they could be bled in the installed position rather than coming up with a convoluted assembly procedure that doesn't really address the future situation of bleeding the brakes after a session of maintenance.
     
  9. Skelli
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 16

    Skelli
    Member
    from Finland

    That would sure make things alot easier.
    But all and all I'm happy with my brakes, except my shitty luck with the bearings. Once bled properly they work well. I wanted disc brakes and these were pretty mutch the only good looking option, alttough O'brien truckers have a very similiar set. Sometimes it's form before function ;)
     
  10. Ragtop
    Joined: Nov 17, 2001
    Posts: 1,260

    Ragtop
    Member

    It's been quite a while since I checked this thread so I thought I'd bring it BTT. My coupe was all ready for the road this spring but ran into engine problems. As you may recall this is a 406" Chevy that my Dad bought brand new and gave me when he bought a new car years ago. I've kept the motor for something special and this coupe was the car for it. When I got it back from the engine shop and fired it up it ran Ok for the first little while (break in period) and then started running really rich. I also couldn't keep it running when I put it in gear and if I did I had to rev it up at every stop sign or it would stall repeatedly. Found one new anti pump up lifter that wouldn't collapse and that resulted in a bent valve and a broken push rod. Had to remove the head and punch it out which meant installing a new guide. These are rare Z 28 302 heads that are all polished and ported and I was worried about damaging one. After that the engine still would run rich so I pulled the tripower off and installed a '69 Zapper intake and a 600 cfm electric choke Edlebrock carb. These carbs are usually bulletproof and rarely need an adjustment. Still ran rich and hard to keep it running. If you could keep it running it had a ton of power so I just couldn't figure out what was happening. I did notice that I had to adjust the valves a couple of times though because they were rattling. Finally pulled the motor and sent it back to the rebuild shop. This guys built 4 other engines for me and they.ve all been great. We found the cam to be completely worn out evcept for three lobes. The cam looked like a roller cam they were so worn. This engine was broke in at a 1000 rpm with break in oil and lots of cam lube so I think the manufacturer forgot to harden it or had trouble with htat operation. I ordered a new Comp Cam and we pulled the motor completely apart, washed every piece and installed new bearings. Now it runs great but I still want to replace the tripower intake. Just got it running right so I could put it away for the winter but it's going in the basement at Autorama so if anyone's going to Detroit please stop by and say hello. I'll be downstairs with the ELTA guys from London Ontario. We'll have about 14 cars in our display so you can't miss us. Here's a picture of the car with Roy, the builder of the car I wanted to copy, as it looks today.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  11. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 771

    AndersF
    Member

    A great looking hotrod. I hope my will come close.
     
  12. After I moved the car from Albuquerque, I changed out the wheels and tires to their final configuration, including the purple paint. I replaced all the wheel bearings on the front (the '40 brakes were partially replaced w/ '56 F-100 units), and made a new tie rod to fix the Ackerman (previous owner had the tie rod out front by reversing spindles, not a good idea). I used some extra-long tie rod ends and heated and bent them to clear....not a perfect solution, but better.

    As to the motorvation, I was going to put the 354 in the '53 Studebaker (53 COOP), but decided to put it in 26 COOP instead. It will have a TKO500 behind it and 3 pedals. I am preparing a '66 Mopar steering box for cowl steering and maximizing legroom so I can have a somewhat comfortable driving position. I will be chopping the top about 6", but only after I get the body mounted and aligned properly....but that will be a ways in the future.......

    DSC00489.JPG DSC00281.JPG DSC00565.JPG
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2014
    Scooterville likes this.
  13. Dig the purple wheels and your plan for the drivctrain. Thanks for sharing. I've got the same steering box in my '29. Looking forward to seeing more of your build shots. Keep the shots coming.
     
  14. Nice to know there are others out there with projects that have gotten stalled by life's priorities. It reminds me that I'm not alone. Great to see your T so far along and congrats. Looks great. Thanks for the inspiration.
     
  15. Inspiration.
    cd4fabead4b36cd91f0e57c96f31ea93.jpg
     
    robert4005 likes this.
  16. for christmas i bought myself 4 '23 projects. a touring and 3 roadsters, all turtle decks, two with doors and one of those two with a top.
    i'll get pics up in here as i start getting after them
     
  17. bambbrose
    Joined: Dec 29, 2008
    Posts: 225

    bambbrose
    Member
    from So. Utah

    Four?! I can't even get my one going.

    IMG_0208.JPG
     
    daddio211 likes this.
  18. t42.JPG Inspiration, courtesy of Jeff Norwell.
     
    daddio211 likes this.
  19. Flathead Dave
    Joined: Mar 21, 2014
    Posts: 3,340

    Flathead Dave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from So. Cal.

    1927 Coupe....I'm doing one from the ground up. I picked the body up in Dodge City, KS. When I got to it, it was a chopped up rust bucket. The guy that I bought it from, chopped the top off. Had no floors at all. (The guy had cut a sheet of 3/4" plywood for the floor) The doors were chopped and rusted through. He had a trunk deck lid skin on it that he was just going to hinge on. He asked me if I wanted all of the chopped pieces and at first I said no and then changed my mind and I am glad that I did. Now it's a tall boy, again


    After I got it home, it sat for a year until I could really get my mind wrapped around it. SO....
    I welded the chopped top back on and began collecting parts for it. I got the doors and did some minor filler and welding work on them. I found a good trunk deck lid for very cheap. $200 cheap! I found a dash for it. I cut and welded on it, used some bondo and drilled holes for my gauges. Found a windshield with glass in it on ebay for $100. I found all of the window garnish, quarters, rear window and door trim and painted them in Charcoal Gray since the car will be red when I am done with it.

    I did some very minor body work on the fenderwelds and corners. I didn't need to make pieces. I was lucky. I welded in some home manufactured floor plates that I cut out using #16 cold rolled after I installed new floor cross members. I home manufactured a trunk floor since the re-pops are not actually that great. They leave a lot of open gaps for what is needed in today's rod. The guy had chopped out the rear deck lid cross member so I used 1/2" angle iron to make one and bent it to make it fit so that the trunk deck lid would latch to it and it looks original. Kind of...but it looks good!

    There is still a little bit more to do on it....Right now the body is sitting on a 1982 Mazda B-2000 pick up frame with a 8" rear end in it. It has a 1967 Dauntless 225 Odd Fire w/ TH 350 in it but I am going to swap it out and put my 1951 239 Flattie in it. I probably won't keep it on this frame because I found a Model T Rod frame manufacturer in the midwest that I am thinking about using.

    The rod is the same in the avatar.
     

    Attached Files:

  20. Martin Harris
    Joined: Aug 3, 2014
    Posts: 320

    Martin Harris

    Great to see T coupes being built. Love the purple wheels!
     
  21. Maybe I should tell why I will not be able to get to the T for a while:

    The reason I have to delay further progress on 26 COOP is another car project that gets in the way. I am helping a friend realize his dream of a lifetime (carwise). He parked his 1941 Chevy Coupe in Luray, VA in 1966 and went off to Vietnam. The car sat under a lean-to until 2012, when we moved it to my garage in Maryland and started a complete redo. He's not a street rodder, and wanted to keep it totally stock on the outside. he wouldn't let me even lower the nosebleed coupe! Lots of rust over those years (and piles of rat/mouse/snake refuse). We put a 250 I6/T-5, R&P power steering, A/C, etc. to make it more roadable, and are trying to get it moving out of my garage so I can start on the 26 COOP. I apologise in advance for posting the non-T pics here, but I think the story is neat.

    DSC07522.JPG
    DSC00274.JPG
    Oh, and I am also getting 40 COOP ready for shipping out to GNRS tomorrow.

    [​IMG]

    So, it may be a while before 26 COOP gets moving. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!
     
  22. 26hotrod
    Joined: Nov 28, 2009
    Posts: 951

    26hotrod
    Member
    from landis n c

    I am currently refreshing the engine and trans in our T coupe we have had for the last 17 years. I haven't taken the time to figure out how to post pictures yet but its in the July 1985 issue of ROD ACTION mag built by Stan VanAmburg of Temple City Ca. I've only made a few changes to the coupe from the hot rod build.............................
     
  23. Eandmrods
    Joined: Feb 24, 2012
    Posts: 4

    Eandmrods
    Member
    from Laredo tx

    Hello all. I just started mine today.
     
  24. Cool and we love photos. JW
     
  25. Finished the box on my RPU Today.... I smell progress. JW
    [​IMG]
     
    k1w1rodder, AndersF and daddio211 like this.
  26. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,127

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    Hey, that is long enough to actually haul something in there ;) novel idea.
     
    26 T Ford RPU likes this.

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