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Features Who's Building a T?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Slimegreeeeeen, Nov 19, 2011.

  1. Ragtop
    Joined: Nov 17, 2001
    Posts: 1,260

    Ragtop
    Member

    Got a little more done tonight> We're planning to start whacking away at the top next week - scarry stuff!
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Cshabang
    Joined: Mar 30, 2004
    Posts: 2,458

    Cshabang
    Member

    just bought a clean 27 roadster. I got it mocked up in the new shop but thats as far as its going for awhile. The house has to get squared away first.
     
  3. Looking good Ragtop. Sure you don't want to leave that thing tall? Of course, that's coming from a guy who is 6'5". Love the wheels and tires.
     
  4. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,998

    daddio211
    Member

    Body is back off of mine, suspension mock up time!


    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     

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  5. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,257

    oj
    Member

    Heres a few more shots of mine.
    I have the tank supports made, removed the filler neck and sending units (from where the skim coats are), relocated the filler and pondering the sending unit. The gas tank is early '30s chrysler i believe.
    I am near done with the passenger door - we have come to hate eacher other this past week - the recessed area for the latch looks wonky but it is just the angle of the picture.
    I used the cowl lights of a truck for my taillights. I cut pieces of the original bracket and added it to the gastank safety surround. I'm not sure how i'll dress out the light for stop/turn, kinda want to keep it as stock appearing as possble.
    I am kinda re-engineering my rear suspension stuff so i will have about another inch of clearance inside at the seat area, i might have to completely redo the seat section but i am trying to weld in a piece and salvage existing work - it probably won't work but we'll see. Anyway, that will be in the next set of pics.
     

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  6. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 19,686

    Deuces
    Member
    from Michigan

    I am...:rolleyes:
     

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  7. SinisterCustom
    Joined: Feb 18, 2004
    Posts: 8,269

    SinisterCustom
    Member

    Looking good!
    Gonna be mucho better after the chop.....get to whackin'.....:D
     
  8. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,998

    daddio211
    Member

    Lookin good OJ, you need to update your build thread!

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  9. gilles d
    Joined: Nov 20, 2011
    Posts: 238

    gilles d
    Member
    from winnipeg

    thats a bitchin looking t ! cant wait to see it after the chop
     
  10. Ragtop
    Joined: Nov 17, 2001
    Posts: 1,260

    Ragtop
    Member

    Started whacking the roof today - I didn't want to cut through the "T" strips separate the rear panel from the quarter panels so we unbolted them and drilled out the rivets, bending them back slightly to make room for the saw to get in there. Once the chop is complete we'll just hack off whatever sticks up too high. A little less body work. It'll give me a chance to get in there and clean up the area in behind the "T" strips too.
    [​IMG]
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  11. samurai mike
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 489

    samurai mike
    Member

    i'm building a 26 two door and i want to keep the stock seating. anybody make a new drivers seat frame? i don't have enough for a pattern. anybody have one that they don't need?
     
  12. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,257

    oj
    Member

    I need your opinions on the front axle. When it is 'suicide style' and undropped - where the spring is connected to the wishbone and the axle is out in front....
    What do you think of the traditional holes in the axle, do they 'work' or does it look better undrilled?
    I am almost done making the front end and have the axle laying on the bench trying to figure out if i need to drill it or not.
    What do you guys think?
    I am inclined to leave it solid, make it spotless clean and keep it as simple as possible, your opinions please?
     
  13. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,590

    117harv
    Member

  14. Ragtop
    Joined: Nov 17, 2001
    Posts: 1,260

    Ragtop
    Member

    Worked on the chop most of the day today with the help of my buddy Al. Here's some pics. It's all done except for a little finish welding and grinding and some fill'n and paint. After sitting on the seats I'm planning to use we decided to limit the chop to 4.5 inches - not a lot for a T but I'm real happy with it and I'll be able to climb in and out with out breaking my back.
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  15. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 13,867

    chaddilac
    Member

    Nice!! I did the same thing... left the T beads long and cut them to match the chop. Have you gotten to the doors yet? I had to widen mine 3/8" to match up after the chop.
     
  16. Ragtop
    Joined: Nov 17, 2001
    Posts: 1,260

    Ragtop
    Member

    Yep! Doors are fit. I didn't need to lengthen them but it took a little finnagleing - Is that a real word? Still need to make the new header for above the windshield.
     
  17. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,961

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    The chop looks really good. I like this all steel roof from post 739 a lot.
     

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  18. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,257

    oj
    Member


    Thats a great looking chop! Did you take the same amout off all the way around?
     
  19. Ragtop
    Joined: Nov 17, 2001
    Posts: 1,260

    Ragtop
    Member

    Yes, 4.5 " everywhere. BTW - I obviously like the drilled axle too. Thanx
     
  20. '

    Ragtop, Better too little chop, than too much top! I think it looks perfect! :D
     
  21. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,257

    oj
    Member

    Actually, it was your axle that got me to wondering.
    I've got 3 experts advising me to drill.
    It is hard to see in my pics, but the cowl has had some creative sheetmetal work done in a prior life. I think it might have been a high school students' project at one time - there are 2 layers of metal on the top side. You can see some of the brazing done along an epic seam. I pondered mightily last night and have decided to whack the whole mess off and replace the sheetmetal. I hope 'Mindover' don't venture into this thread or he'll have a heart attack when he sees my work!
    Anyway, i have decided to not decide about the axle drilling and that procrastination is the prudent course, until i get the cowl done.
     
    bengeltiger likes this.
  22. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 13,867

    chaddilac
    Member

    I widened mine so the window channels didn't have a kink in them. I'd like to see how you did yours incase I do another and there is a better way to do them!! :)
     
  23. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,961

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    So, what are your plans for the top ? The steel would greatly strengthen the T body.

    By the way I also like a drilled axle as evidenced in my build.
     
  24. Ragtop
    Joined: Nov 17, 2001
    Posts: 1,260

    Ragtop
    Member

    Not thinking right here Chad. I did cut vertical slices in the door uprights and tapered the skin (inside and out) to keep the little flange straight and in line with that area on the lower part of the door. I cut into the top and bottom sections and them tapped the lower skin in the the upper skin out till everything lined up. Then I had to use some 1/8" rod to fill the biggest part of the gap. Somehow when you said widen the door I thought length - sorry for the confusion on my part. Can you tell me what type of material ( I assume it's a felt channel) goes in to hold the rear windows in place? Thanx.


     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2012
  25. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 13,867

    chaddilac
    Member

    Hmmmm... When I looked at mine (while chopping it) I could tell that the inside needed to be split apart from the outside, so the channels would line up, it was the only way I could see to do it?

    The rear quarter and rear windows take a 1/4 rubber channel that is basically pinched by the garnish moldings to hold the glass in.
     
  26. Ragtop
    Joined: Nov 17, 2001
    Posts: 1,260

    Ragtop
    Member

    Not sure yet on what to use to fill the top. I know I don't want to use the oak frame and wooden bows with chicken wire etc. I'm wondering if I can get 10 gauge aluminum sheet in widths wider than 4 feet. I think I'd glue the headliner to it, put some rivnuts in it, upholster the top and bolt it in using the original holes in the upper body. That would give me a little more head room than a traditional headliner. Might put a couple of chrome or stainless ribs under the headliner like some 60's Oldsmobiles to stiffen things up a bit. I posted on this a while back and didn't get a bunch of info.
     
  27. DaddyO's..Deuce
    Joined: Jul 31, 2011
    Posts: 782

    DaddyO's..Deuce
    Member
    from Missery

    Looks like your planning on metal. When I did mine the only thing I found was MFG, I used a jig saw to cut it into shape, covered it in foam, then sprayed my material with 3m super 77, stretched it over and stapled.
     

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  28. DaddyO's..Deuce
    Joined: Jul 31, 2011
    Posts: 782

    DaddyO's..Deuce
    Member
    from Missery

    Sorry MDF was the only thing I found over 48" wide.
     
  29. DaddyO's..Deuce
    Joined: Jul 31, 2011
    Posts: 782

    DaddyO's..Deuce
    Member
    from Missery

    Also made it removable, just 10 screws and it's off. Not exactly a roadster, but it's always nice to have options.
     

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  30. Ragtop
    Joined: Nov 17, 2001
    Posts: 1,260

    Ragtop
    Member

    Did you MDF form to the curve of the top? I notice there's a curve when viewed from the side and the back. I straightened out the curve at the front so I'm not worried about that. My son runs a cabinet shop and they can get plywood that's 5' wide in thicknesses from 1/4" up to 3/4" so that's an option for me.
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2012

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