Made a flange that will hold a pcv valve in place of my road draft. This flange still holds the inside can. The manifold was drilled so this is were I'm pulling my vacuum. I'm also thinking of drill and tap a hole toward the back to pull vac for the distributor. This is for my 303 olds. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
As long as there's a fresh air vent, you're golden, and hidden very well. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Should work well, as Butch said you will need fresh air breathers in the valve covers, or valley cover. Nice job too! KK
Another ? Can I drill and tap the manifold anywhere to pull vac from. Maybe hide the vac hoses Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I was recently reading a thread on here, may have been an old one, about some PCV valves being designed to work only vertically and some (with a spring inside?) that work horizontally. That said, mine is horizontal, no spring, and seems to work.
I did a suck blow test ( no remarks) and it will shut off on the intake side in both positions. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Neat and orderly is probably the best way to hide the vacuum lines or any other lines you don't want folks to notice. You might bend up a steel line and just use a short piece of hose to hook it to the pcv valve.
You can pull vacuume from just about anywhere you care to drill. It's better in the common plenum than an individual runner though, especially for the PCV
If it were me, I'd run a steel line off your initial drill point and split that for pcv and distributor vaccum down where the pcv valve is, totally hiding all of it.
You can use a multi port fitting but a tee in line isnt good to do. Dizzy vacuum should be dedicated. There's carb studs that double as a vac port used for dizzy.
The hollow carb stud is the best for your vacuum advance as it draws from the plenum. The PCV hose and fitting shown in the photo also draws from the plenum and will work fine for your PCV.
I'm glad you're doing this. Let us know if it works OK, It should. I've got my Olds in the machine shop now and was wondering whether to do a PCV system or just run the old road draft tube.
Jim, I have the same set up on my 324 in my avatar and it appears to be working fine after running the engine for break in and for follow up adjustments. My only observation is that the pcv valve is real tight against the firewall to the point that I cannot remove it without a lot of work. A blister in that spot would resolve the issue I suppose. Have not revisited that issue yet. Your engine rebuild looks great! Visiting your state at the moment.....trying to get warm again....not working yet