Looking for direct replacement holley 94 power valves. I was having a problem with my holley 94 dumping fuel thought I had it fixed until I cracked the carb in half and realized that the power valve is an 8.5, not the factory designed 6.5, id like to get an assortment of sizes ranging from 4.5 to 6.5. This carb is a new part from Sacramento vintage ford, and I cant beleave they stuck this size power valve in it .....its just dumping raw fuel into my engine. I tried my local speed shop, they only sold holley power valves but they didnt fit they were to short and to skinny...maybe I need ford power valves?.... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Ck vintagespeed.com That's where I get all my 94 parts. Some guys on here have had problems with Charlie there but I haven't had any concerns. I usually just order the parts off his web site and in a few days they show up. Dickster on here also sells 94 parts but I think you have to call him to order parts.
I got mine straight from Holley via the pepboys "speed shop". Found a set of 8.5s in dual Zephyr carbs. The guy that installed that carb setup ruined the poor owners engine not knowing how to set it up right. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Ive bought from him before, a couple of adapters and carb plates good guy and fast shipping since hes in florida .. Is the 8.5 pv to big for that carb ... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The number is the vac level at which the thing opens, NOT a size. It is just a faucet, opening or closing access to the restrictions in the carb passages, which are effectively just two extra jets. They can only deliver any actual gas when PV is open AND engine RPM is sufficient to actuate the venturis. If everything fits and is properly assembled the PV cannot "dump" any fuel...it adds fuel into the main jet flow and so is only capable of adding in fuel well above idle with throttle at least somewhat open. It cannot add in fuel at idle even if it were to be jammed open. Like everything else (except the accelerator pump) in a carb fuel can only move through it when there is sufficient airflow. It CAN pour in fuel if its base is not properly sealed to carb body OR if its diaphragm is ruptured, which is a rare failure. The base seal is a common failure because many are using Holley 4150 type PV's which will screw into the hole but which do not fit the sealing surface at all well. This is simply a leak and has nothing to do with the size of any apertures or the way a carb works...it is simply a leak powered by gravity emptying the carb bowl. What is your actual problem?? Too much fuel?leaking/smell? At what engine speed, driving condition, etc.?? My only knowledge is of original 94's...I have no idea who makes the repro ones, whether they use the right valves (post a picture of the top of your PV) or whether they reliably come through with proper float level. This basic stuff needs to be checked out if carb is malfunctioning.
Motor run great, except it b.s. horrible raw fuel smell, it has good response, plugs are coated with black soot from fuel not oil, motor does not smoke from exhaust at all it is completely rebuilt, only other problem is the breather tube where the oil fuel pump was has fuel vapor coming out ...I doubt blow by since brand new hastenings rings were installed.. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Motor only has run time no miles yet, do not want to kill it with to much fuel..rather fix it before driving it .. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
This is the pv..it was in a standurd holley ford script 94 Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Is it the one from the aftermarket carb?? Or from what source? The issue first is how its gasket surface is shaped. Float level would seem another thing to check out right away on a super-rich carb. I would do a complete teardown, verify shape of PV, verify air beleds, float level, crud level, etc. as though the thing were straight from a junkyard, as something is wrong. PV opening number is an issue for later, when the thing is basically up and running...now only its proper sealing matters. You are right to avoid running engine much like this...rich mixture can kill your rings right away. What model 94 did the reproduce, model # on left of bowl? I'm guessing it might well be a 59 or an 8BA, the commonest 94's.
sorry here is the shot of the power valve that was in this carb. the guy i bought the motor from said, if my memory serves me, he bought the carb from sacrimento vintage ford. it is a holley 94 carb is torn down at the moment, i cleaned the dirt out of the carb and all the jets main jets are 51, gasket was good until i tore the carb down. their is no H marked on the power valve only a letter, E a number 2 than the 8 over the 5
Really need pic two looking down...looks like a ring around the outer area of the flat surface against carb. An actual Ford or Holley built 94, any model, has a cast ring right around the hole PV screws into, up tight against the part that goes into hole in carb casting. Gasket goes there and PV has a flat matching that ring. 4150 has sealing ring at outer edge, and nothing that seals where it needs to on a 94... its gasket flat is entirely outside where carb gasket lives. Gasket comparison is roughly size of a nickel on 94 to size of a quarter on four barrel. I'm seeing what looks like wrong PV. Easy test...put on pv and its gasket, fill bowl about half way, see if gas comes out around PV. If so...you have un-metered gas pouring into engine any time there is gas in the carb. I'm about to sign off...pics of top of casting, gasket, and lower surface of bowl where PV seals would thoroughly sort that out.
one minute ill post a picture of both your help would be great i need this sorted out for jalopyshowdown i need to order parts tomorrow
their is no gasket on it, the gasket is a small red dime size ring its preety flat now from beeing so tight, it needs to be replaced i just want to know where to buy the replacment parts from so i can order them tomorrow so i can sort this problem out.
i dont have the carb base and bowl with me its where the car is beeing stored i was their earlier, any info on where to order a complete rebuild kit with correct power valves would help i would like to get 4.5 to 6.5 if possible to see which makes it run better...
Looks flat all the way across. Drop on the gasket and see if it fits down in there and matches the cast ring on bottom of carb body...you may have workable parts there. If it looks good, put some thinner in bowl and see if it stays in there. (It lacks the inner ring for gasket seal of an original but looks like it is capable of sealing there. Most wrong types have a curved surface at the seal area which sometimes seals, sometimes leaks, just jamming into the gasket rather than compressing it.) This may be a 4150 type with central area machined flat to fit 94. Not like an original but looks quite possibly usable. Check out float level as another likely suspect for miserably rich.
Next...go here: http://www.norgv8club.org/norg/inde...rs-and-tech-tips/category/9-service-bulletins Read first the service bulletin on carb operation, then the overhaul one. Read fast before 8,000 Ford copyright lawyers shut the place down! Physically check bowl for leaks by filling it with thinner or gas. Check float level, maybe go a tad lower than spec (bigger dimension) Locate all the air bleeds show, be sure they are open. Check the check valves at accel pump inlet and at squirter. Study the operation bulletin and think.
Also...forgot to think outside the bowl! What is your pump, and has actual pressure (not rated pressure) been checked with a good gauge??
The fuel pump is a very small electric one from mr gasket, the fuel pressure gauge is a holly 1 -4 psi with a matching gauge, fuel psi, is set at 3. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
If you follow Bruce's advice you should be able to get it running like a top. He's pretty sharp on these carbs. I'll second his advice on the float setting. Even set at spec I've had them drip gas down the accelerator pump rod onto the intake or suck raw gas into the engine while running. I just spent a week putting my 3x2 intake back on my yblock and setting up 3 ECG carbs to run correctly. Most of the problems I had was related to the float level. In the end, all 3 carbs have a float level lower than the spec. No leaks and it runs great. Time well spent.
I believe there are two power valve sizes, early pre war, and later when holley updated the circuits. Early ones were flat. Someone correct me if im wrong
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