The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Rusty O'Toole, Oct 31, 2016.
This might help you decide!
Run the Frantz, and after replacing toilet paper, cut open roll with razor knife then flip thru roll like a book. You will be amazed what gets trapped in there. If those metal pieces DON'T get trapped in Frantz filter where do they go? Frantz is a Partial Flow filter, so there is NO downside to running one. If Nothing else, it serves as a heat release, reducing oil temperature.
interesting....I wonder how many miles y'all are driving your old cars, that you have to use fleet quality oil filters?
I use crappy cheap ones most of the time, and I haven't worn out an engine yet because of it. And I drive my old cars a lot.
I try to use OEM-ish. Motorcraft in Fords, AC Delco in GMs. I'm pretty comfortable with Napa Gold/Wix and Purolator. I used to use Fram until I saw everyone give them a bad rap, but I can't honestly say I ever had an issue.
Squirrel brings up a good point (as usual). Interval is probably trumps filter quality, IF interval is religiously followed. Still, we're talking $3 vs $7 in most cases, usually on a vehicle someone has a quite bit of love & $$ in, so why not?
That wasn't quite my point....my point was that you don't drive your car enough to ever wear out the engine, even if it did not have any filter on it at all.
True. I worry less about the wear issue than I do the housing failure issue.
I have only ever seen a Fram blow apart, and now three, with my own eyes.
I use WIX filters ever since I went to a Napa Demostration
they had a Cut open a Bunch of Filter's to show what they
Wix makes a LOT of Filter's for other Co.
if I can't find a Wix I use a Napa Gold which is made by WIX
just my 3.5 cents
or when the Cow's
when I was about 7 year's old I used to go with my Farther
to Change his Oil, he Had a 36 Plym.
All the Men in the area would go to the Pit and wait for there Chance
to change their Oil
the Process was to Take the Oil Pan down Clean the Inside & put
it Back up Grease it and Put New Oil in it
I think it was every month.?
Just my 3.5 cents
or when the Cows
That's a neat story! Times have changed.
The Liberty filters we have here at work have a shipping label from Wix Dillon, South Carolina USA. Not sure if all are manufactured there though
a couple of people brought up the Frantz oil cleaner, (not filter). those things are all over at swap meets around here since they were built in Stockton. I used to buy them for 10 - 15 bucks each and sell them on ebay for 50 or more. in the box you can get closer to $100.00...at least back when I was doing it. they are still popular.
If you're running an already old engine pulled from a car that was junked, I think it's a good idea to run good quality oil & filters to help extend the life even more.
On the other hand, if you're running a freshly rebuilt engine that you put a lot of money and time into, well, it makes sense to run good quality oil & filters in that too.
well if Hickok 45 uses STP that is good enough for me.
I find it interesting how so many people report that they use a certain brand of filter, and they've never had any trouble, so it must be good. Just what kind of trouble were you expecting to see? What are you gauging your experience on? Other than, hey, it didn't explode, how are you judging it?
I went through a period with Fleetgaurd filters in a certain application (a transmission filter on a bulldozer) where the sealing rings were failing in use, resulting in a loss of trans fluid and making a huge mess in the cabinet where the filter was mounted. We had to go back to OEM filters for a while until Fleetgaurd figured out the problem and corrected it. Shit does happen.
Another time I organized a field trial for a customer, a very large waste handling company with landfills all across the US, using Baldwin filters on their CAT equipment at some of their landfills, while at other landfills they were using the OEM Cat filters. The Director of Fleet Maintenance wanted to know if the Baldwin filters worked as well as the Cat filters, and asked us to help him figure that out. So I designed a trial where we used Baldwin filters at half of the landfills and Cat filters at the other half, and we monitored the wear metal levels in the oil samples, with samples taken at regular intervals, both at mid drain and at the end of the drain interval. Half way through the trial we swapped filters and the sites that ran Baldwin switched to Cat, and the sites that ran Cat switched to Baldwin, and we then completed the rest of the trial period. This went on for over a year as we gathered data from the oil samples.
They also cut open the filters and removed the pleats and sent the pleats to me and I examined and photographed them under magnification.
At the end of the trial I compiled all of the data and compared wear metal levels and photo's of the filter pleats, and the end result was we saw no significant difference in wear with Baldwin filters. The customer ended up switching to Baldwin, and saved a substantial amount of money.
We had no skin in the game, we sell them oil, not filters. I really didn't care whose filters they bought, I just wanted to provide them with good clean data to help them make a decision. I think we accomplished our goal.
Not to get off in the weeds, but that sounds cool! It would be neat to have an engine where anything that could be, was made with a clear or glass housing. Distributor caps have been made, spark plugs, wires, battery, fuel filters, carburetor bowls etc. As a practical matter a clear oil filter (Lexan should work?) would show evidence of bypass or sludge.
Went to my local parts store this morning and they had Mobil 1 filters on sale. They seem to be one of the acceptable brands so I bought 2. With tax, the two filters cost over $30 and that was on sale. I haven't seen Wix, Baldwin or Hastings filters in 20 years. I don't know where you buy filters for $3 - $5 I haven't seen that for 20 years either.
Holy crap! The Wix 51069 at my local O'Rielly's is about $6.50USD. I understand there are exchange rates and shipping charges to get it to Ontario, I didn't think it would be that much.
You can call me anal, but I've got a lot of goodies and money invested in the .030 over 327 an original 300 HP in my 63 Impala, at present the oil is Royal Purple High Performance Street (HPS) and a K&N oil filter. Probably over kill and spent more then I could have but buying what I consider top of the line products gives me a warm fuzzy feeling. I don't consider spending an extra $30-$40 that big of a deal.
By the way the 63 Impala is a just completed frame off restoration with 500 miles on it and the logic of buying the best has been utilized throughout the build. The car is for sale in the HAMB Classifieds for half of what it took to build it.
It boggles the mind....
Hey, oil and filter salesmen need to make a living too!
Exact figures, 2 Mobil 1 filters @ $13.49, total $26.98 (on sale remember). 13% Harmonized sales tax, $3.51. 5% sales tax 0.00 (not applicable) TOTAL $30.49.
Regular price of the filters, $17.99 so I saved $9 + $1.17 sales tax or $10.17 by buying 2. In other words the regular price of one filter, including tax, is $20.32.
Everything we buy is like that. The other day I saw an electric oil change pump on Walmart's US web site for $18. The exact same item at Canadian Tire is $39.95 but they don't have any. When I order an item from the US I assume it will be more than double the posted price by the time I get it. Including shipping, exchange on the dollar, and possibly import duties. This is if the sender will use US Mail. If they insist on using Purolator or Fedex I get dinged for customs agent fees of $50 whether there is any duty or not, and it doesn't matter how big or expensive the package is.
Still envy our "free" health care?
The other problem is nobody seems to sell brands like Wix or Hastings. You have your choice of Fram or premium priced brands like K&N or Mobil 1.
NAPA Gold I hear is good. Unfortunately the local NAPA dealer is a prick who charges full retail price if you don't have a garage license and that makes his stuff the most expensive in town. All the other guys will give you a discount if they know you although not the full garage discount.
No, I never did. I'm a free market kind of guy.
It's typical for the NAPA store to give you a discount on most purchases. The list price is listed on the receipt, then they give a discount, and the result is always less than list. I've had them do this with the marked price on items off the shelf too.
My dad worked as a parts man at an IH dealership most of his life after he came home from the war, this was standard practice at the stores he worked at too, and most independent parts stores I've ever dealt with, except for places like Autozone or Chief's or other chain stores like that.
I worked in garages and body shops around here for 20 years and all the counter guys used to know me. Garage discount 30% to 40% off list. If you worked in a garage they would give you whatever discount your employer got. Farmers and construction company guys who maintained an account got garage price. If they knew you, and you were a regular, but didn't work in a garage you could get 20% off. Anybody who came in the door, and wasn't a jackass, got 10%. The NAPA guy is the only one, other than the car dealership parts counters, that charges full list.
In the old days we had 3 auto parts places, McKerlie - Millen, Larry Wilson Automotive and another place run by a guy named Moe. We used to call them McKerlie Larry and Moe ha ha.
There is one that you can see oil as it Flows , not the filer but the Remote mount ..
In my every day truck c 1,500 with over 200,000 I change oil evey 5,000 miles with Fram ,wix ,Stp filters ,with cheap oil 40 wt summer then 20/50 winter
My flatty every 1,500-2,000 no filter 3yrs old rebuild With Dell vac diesel oil ,
Blown Altered, maintenance ,maintenance !!!
My A with Race motor on street , Every 3 weeks 1,000 -1,800 miles was with Wix now System one filter , Oil Valvoline race 20/50 winter , summer 50 wt sometimes 60wt
Might switch over to Rotella race oil , Never again a fram for me on race motor
I lost a $6,000 short block last year in less then 5 mints , ph 5 fram cut filter open defective ,( my fault I didn't have a wicks on the shelf just a pH 5 2:30am )
I have Run Fram for many years with no issues , But I will not take that chance again , Be careful with your weight oil's also if too thick by being cold & not the wright microns you can suck a filter ,
My oil pressure's 70-100 oil pressure wet sump ( 8 -9 qt pan ) & 10-15 pounds for every 1,000 RPMs with dry sump . I always let my car run for 4-5 minutes before I go anywhere because I Run a composite nylon distributor gear , if not it will tear the teeth right off
Why do you run such heavy oil?
yet another Wix user.
Separate names with a comma.