The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by J Man, Jan 12, 2010.
Disk brakes? That may be the coolest thing I've ever seen
Here is mine:
'26 engine (actually a 1922 block) bored .030 over with aluminum pistons and a high compression "Z" head. I run a down draft carb and a lightened flywheel (took 75 lbs off) and a 3-speed aux. Overdrive behind the T trans. She goes great at 60!
After I handle a few other projects, I plan on building her a new '26 engine with '28 Chev head, crank and rods with dual down drafts this time
MrModelT, do you have any pics of chassis without the body? Any more details on that 3 speed aux?
Rich, Is that a Morton -Brett head? How many conpanies made a DB overhead?
nice 4 bangers
Yes that is a Morton & Brett head. Roof also made a 16 valve head for the Dodge Bros engine. Both companys made T Ford heads also. I have not seen any other Dodge Bros. heads.
Don't know if it will work, but you might consider holding out for an Olds 3 port head instead of a '28 Chevrolet... I've had some time to visually compare the two and the 3 port has MUCH better flow characteristics!
Take care, Bill
That is an absolutely beautiful car.
I need to find a motor trans and rear, any suggestions as to what year would be better than others?
Clayton, willie tells me you're working on a late-model car(model A) any pics yet? what kinda motor etc.
Do I have pictures.... how many do you want? Here are a few and you can check out my thread for the full story. The 3-speed Aux O.D. is an original bolt on accessory for the T's that was attached after the stock T's 2 speed planetary trans giving you 3 gear choices: Underdrive (geared down from stock), Direct (stock T gear ratio) and Overdrive (3 to 1). With the overdrive you have a total of 6 forward speeds and 3 reverse speeds at the driver's hands. These units are "shift on the fly" but are tricky to learn to shift properly as there is no clutch and all gears are non-syncro. You have to use the throttle to shift these O.D.s...up and down. You still use the bands for T-low and T-high....the rest of this comes after.
I have thought about the 3-port Olds head, but from what I have seen and heard that either head works great. The match-up between the T-block and the Chev/Olds head is not exact, but there is an adapter kit made by Neil Jern out of CA who makes what he calls the "Jern Thunderbolt" adapter kit for both T's and A's to use either head....the "poor mans RAJO".
I am starting to gather the needed goodies for a replica of my late Grandfather's Flattie fired '29 A-V8 roadster from the late 40's. Here is a link to the thread I started for that one too.
26-27 rearend (has big brakes)
From a visual comparison of the two, the Olds has curved runners/ports, where the '28 Chevrolet has sharp right angles.
The only downside of the Olds head is that the rocker arms are 1:1, but the bosses can be milled down to use a better ratio rocker (I've seen it done well).
I've been searching for a modern rocker arm to replace the '23/'28 rockers- they are rather thin/weak and are prone to bending. I have heard that Nissan diesel trucks have a rocker that might work, but no visual confirmation yet. Here's a shot of the '28 for reference:
If anyone knows anything that will work- chime in!
Thanks for the info! I would be happy with either head, its just I have a good '28 head,crank and rods in my stash of goodies....and its the only one I have every really seen used on a T. Come to think of it....I don't think I have ever even seen a 3 port Olds head! I want to do this right, so I may just have to hold out for an Olds head.
I'll keep an eye out... I looked for one for a couple years before this one dropped in my lap .
I've never compared the T to the Chevrolet cranks- what's the difference?
Bob Rufi used a Ford C crank in the '25 Chevrolet block for his streamliner in the 40's... maybe I need to start a new search!
there is quite a bit of difference between a T crank and a '28 Chev crank. The early Chev units are much stouter than the T's "bent up coat hanger" of a crankshaft and is actually very close in dimensions to the T and with a few modifications, can be made to fit in a T block. This was a some what common practice in the '20s before the appearance of the Model A, offering a better crank. The Chev rods can also be used with 292 pistons, as T pistons for Chev rods are no longer made.
All in all, the Chev crank and rods make for a much stronger bottom end, and coupled with a Chev or Olds 3-port head and the right combo of speed goodies can reach the 100+ hp range!
Thanks for the info! I'm going to be looking for parts to bump up the compression on my '28- hope to start a thread at some point.
I was planning on using some sort of juice brake setup in the rear, just not sure what yet.
Nash Metropalitan Juice drum brakes virtually bolt right up. They fit the T axles and and the Wire Wheels if I remember correct. Only 1 or 2 mods needed. There are also some Disc brake kits out there now or you can go with the old favorite Rocky-Moutain rear band brakes...just depends how much "go power" you want out of the motor....and how crazy you are
I want a nice respectable driver. Most of the roads around here are 55 mph and a small stretch of 65 mph so I need to be able to keep up with everyone else.
As far as the brakes go the Rockys would most likely be hard to find and not cheap. If I remember right the Nash brakes are 4 lug similar to the AH Sprite so I would have to see how the hubs would fit in/on the drums. I know GMC Bubba used Explorer disc brakes on his. What would the other options be? I looked around on the MTFCA message board and any talks of brakes usually turns into a pissing match on how the stock ones are sufficient for a T vs if they were so great why did they upgrade when they went to the A.
I do plan to use the wires but I was going to do T wires all around. but I do have a pair of A's incase I change my mind.
I have been checking around but have not seen much in my area as far as stuff for sale, not without buying a whole car anyways. I need to get into contact with some of the local clubs and see what I can find.
There are a couple of posts on mtfca.com about using disk brakes that really look pretty good (well hidden unless you don't use fenders)- you have to do a little more old-fashioned searching, but the results are usually worth it.
The Rocky-Mountain brakes are acctually being reproduced as kits for small, large drum cars and TT trucks. About $600 will buy you a set from Lang's Antique Auto Parts (all they do are T's).
The Nash brakes are of course not without mods to make them fit on a T, but It is simple enough that I have seen it on several cars. Disc brakes can also be done with either pre-made kits or home-made setups such as GMC Bubba or my friend Chris "powerwagonmaniac" who built his own 4-wheel disc brake setup with custom hubs for a set of Houk #4 aftermarket Wire wheels.
As for the argument about Disc brakes not being original and model T brakes working fine, Stock T brakes do NOT for high speeds...stock T maybe. I have never been a fan of the T trans brake, which is all it is. When you step on the Brake pedel, it tightens up the brake band and stops the transmission and driveline and therefor the rear wheels or at leat they are supposed to. At 60 mph, if I need to stop I want to when I mash that pedel down....right now! My advice to anyone that wants to build a hot T.....give it good brakes!
Here are some more pics.
The car is lowered and shortened 12"
Nice lookin' T!
I had a some what local guy contact me saying he had some parts so hopefully I can get what I need from him.
I've got my 22 speedster all apart in the garage right now. In the early 80's I taught the engine classes at a college in Calif so I hauled 6 T blocks in an started working on them. The engine I had in the speedster cost more for oil than gas and left a blue cloud behind it . I made the santa clara Mt Hamilton Run in the 70's and could keep up with the highly modified ones. but only because I could do the corners up the windy road better. I bored that engine .060, aluminum pistons new cam, gear adjustable lifters. milled the top of the block to get rid of rust corrosion. Milled the head, I don't remember how much. Dippers on the rods. The engine did not have any magnets on the flywheel, I think that also helped me to rev out of the corners better. I rode in Rositer's 27 roadster once. He had an early 50's studebaker V8 head and it really ran ! HE used an aluminum adaptor plate he machined.
MrModelT- Your T is absolutely stunning. Wow.
I have asked before and haven't got any answers So I'll try a wheel question. I picked up an old hay wagon made from an early chevy with disc wheels. I have read that I can use the chevy spindles and wheels on a T asxe for the front. How do you adapt the Rears to the T?
Instead of just slobbering about the 26 I will actually contribute something of value and direct you to PM furbiscuit. I sent him the link to this thread also, so hopefully he will chime in about his T speedster.
'63 chevy full size car rear brakes were a popular swap on T's back in the day. I have an article somewhere on it. This is for 26-7 rears. An easy adaption, if I remember the article correctly.
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