I only have 115v electric to my garage and no 220v. I am using a Lincoln 100 with gas for all my sheet metal work and couldn't be happier with the results ! Does a great job . Here is my question , I want to be able to weld thicker metal for installing new mounts for a rear , shocks , springs , solid engine mounts , different front end or frame clip , weld a roll cage and so on Will a newer Lincoln , Miller or Hobart 140 size 115v MIG welder with 75/25 argon do the job and will it be strong enough ? How about a stick welder ? I am thinking the metal I will be using will be about 1/8"-1/4"- 3/8" thick metal that I would be welding with . Will these size welders do the job ? I know a 220v welder would be the best way to go but I would have to cut up my concrete patio about 12' to run a 220v line to the garage and I don't want to do that unless I have no choice . Then I would also have to hire an electrician to run the 220v line for me . I will wire up a 115v any day but with a 220v , I will leave that one to the professional ! Can I get some feedback on why one welder is better than another for the work I want to do with it . I know the Miller is suppose to have a hotter tip . I DON'T want to start a war between the Blue and Red welders out there either , OK ! Both are Great welders ! I would like some points from welders that have used the Hobart welders also since they are a good welder at a decent price too ! I know Miller doesn't make them too , they just distribute them . Please keep in mind that I have very little money and on disability so I trade and barter for most of the things I need . Thanks for all the help ahead of time ! Retro Jim
run an appropriate sized extension from your dryer outlet(as long as the C/B amps is correct) over to the garage and then just plug and play, then coil up when not in use.. just make sure wire is gauged correctly for the amp draw and distance, get a certified electrition to help figure that out
Flux core wire burns hotter. If you have a torch you can preheat for more penetration. Even a propane torch will work. Be carefull with fitup. You might be able to do multiple passes. Is it practicle to run an extension cord to a 220 source? Here it comes--I'm a red guy. But don't let that influence anything.
the differance in the welders are basically the internals, coil construction- wire gauge- control circutry- duty cycle and such...but I prefer millers
not a practice- but could be an alternative... I wouldnt do it for industrial work, but an ocassional light duty cycle job should be OK,, but I am not an electrition, and am not familuar with the run distance and such for this application
Personally I would pick up a lincoln 220v stick welder. Keep your little guy for sheet metal and the stick for the heavy stuff. You can run a 50amp 220 recptable to the edge of your patio , assuming that run is less than 50 feet, and run a 10/3 strand wire extension for that 12 feet plus . Find an electrician in your area thats a hotrodder and he will probably cut you a deal. He would need to check your service drop and main to make sure its all doable.
Sam123 has a good plan. If you go that way pick up an ac/Dc machine so you can tig weld. Won't be able to aluminum without a hi-freq box but great for everything else.
I had thought about running a 220v line to the outside of the house and making an extension cord to run to the garage . I would only need a 20' extension cord but would rather not do it that way if possible . I would rather just use what the manufacture installed on the welder it's self . I really like my Lincoln welder and never had any problems with it at all ! It's really a matter of choice between the Lincoln and Miller welders ! The problem I have with a stick welder is they are messy but do a very good job . I was looking at a Hobart Stick mate and can get them fairly cheap on C/L . I had a decent Lincoln 225 but never used it so I sold it 2 years ago . Anyone use a Hobart Welder like the 140 ? I would like to get some feedback about people That have used their welders and see if there was any problems besides the normal things most any welder would have . Thanks , Retro Jim
Most of the machines in our shop have 20' to 30' cords. A proper sized cord will not affect performance. You haven't moved up much buying a little bigger 110 machine. If you get setup for 220 you will have a lot more options. Be careful with model numbers. Don't assume they are amp ratings.
I use a hobart beta mig 250 amp, 220volt and a millermatic 180amp, 220volt hooked up to a 40 foot lead. No problems as far as that goes. And I am in a 60 year old building with 60 year old wiring. Don't overlook this possibility.
If your fuse box/breaker panel is in the garage a local electrician can wire it for 220v. Twenty years ago I gave my neighbor/electrican by trade, $50.00 to wire my panel for 220v. He made a small list of items for me to get at the hardware store. I helped him do it. Seems easy to do.
A 20' extension cord isn't an issue as long as you choose the gauge of the wire properly for the amperage the welder needs. A lot of welding forums have info on how to make extension cords just like the one you need. This is a how-to for a 220V cord, but the same basic idea would apply for 115V... http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=11537 I run my Millermatic 35 (220v) off of a very similar set up as shown in the how to. I set it up off of a 10 gauge, 30A extension cord with a 4 pin twist lock I bought at Lowe's using a dryer pig tail to adapt it to the dryer plug in my garage. My extension cord is 25', and I've had no issues with it at all. As far as the type of welding you want to do, you'd probably be happier with a 220v welder. Also, if you're doing a roll cage, be aware that not all organizations will sign off on a MIG welded roll cage. Other than that, just pay attention to your duty cycle if you're going to be welding at the high end of your welder's rated capacity.
This is what I did in my garage above. I went to a electrical supplier, I purchased the proper gauge welding cable for my extension which is 25' and plug into the dryer 220 outlet and works great. I have a L-Tech Mig welder made in Sweden works on 110 or 220. I can weld 1/4" stock with no problems and sheet metal. Make sure you get a 220 plug that fits the dryer outlet, the commercial plug is different. CRUISER
the miller 211 is a great machine... runs on both 110 or 220 volts with just the change of the plug end.... i sure enjoy mine
Retro, It's been AGES since I really welded, I mainly oxy and brass welded back in the day, but I'd seriously check out Millers site for specs and the forum for additional info. Each machine has a pretty good description of the capacity of each machine with comparisons/etc. Also, I'm no welding guru, but I though people use to weld aluminum with Oxy at one time or DC reverse polarity with a arc welder, but again, I'm no encylopedia, best to ask a pro. You def. do not NEED a hi frequency machine to weld aluminum. The new machines def help you out, (Example: Miller Dynasty), but it all comes down to budget and knowledge. Do not get me wrong, some of the stuff done with aluminum from the Dynasty machines are killer work penetration and look wise, but a older machine (Syncrowave 350 etc) should do anything you would need automotive related, but that's just my opinion and I was told that by a chassis builder...
I am not understanding what your referring to... main panel size maybe or 110v welder size? Either way I dont see any 110v doing much 3/8ths like the OP is after.
We tried to use to use a Miller 135 for light frame work. Not enough penetration. I then bought a Miller 180, night and day difference. If you're welding 1/4" to 3/8" stuff you're jacking off with a 110v machine.
Jim, you don't mention if there is a way to go around your patio. I have my circuit box in my small shed and it is right next to my shop. My compressor is in the shed so I don't have to listen to it. I have run my outlets for my welders 20 feet from the box and then added 20 foot extension cords so I can reach anywhere in my shop. I personally think a 220 mig would help you a lot. If you were looking to go thicker than 3/8" I would say a stick would be a good choice, but a 220 mig can handle 3/8 just fine. I agree with the guys saying to get an electrician to help you out on it, it can be a bit tricky if your not comfortable with the upgrade yourself. If you do not have a breaker panel in your shop, you might have him install one, at least a cutoff switch on the 220 line then wire an outlet from there...it will add to your options if you need to add future 110 or 220 feeds later. I left my welder choices to my welding supplier, he is also a good friend. He hooked me up with Miller for my Plasma cutter, and Lincoln for my welders. I got a mig and just recently added a tig, and it converts easily to stick welding. I asked what his thought process was, and he said Miller just revamped their mig welders, and he never pushes new stuff until it has been on the market a couple years and becomes "proven" in the field. With that said, he doesn't have anything against either, and I think either would make you a good machine. I am still on the fence with the autoset feature from Miller.
If you have a pipe from the house to the garage you can pull in some #8 wires good for 40 amps, #6 would be better good for 60 amps. Two hots one netural one #10 ground. One 3/4 inch conduit will do it. Tie the new wire to old and re pull it.
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