The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jimbo17, Aug 5, 2010.
Tell me you don't really think oil had something to do with your unlikely victory??
Brad Penn Grade #1
Rotella T with one qt. of Rislone.
i honestly dont think it makes much difference as long as u got some in there it should run pretty good.
this is good. im not sure what to run in my 52 with a stock 216
Good heavy weight oil. Throw in a qt of Rislone or Marvels Mystery.
So just add some when it starts ah knockin?
Valvoline Vr-1 20/50 across the board. when I first built the 360 in the Plymouth, I decided to cheap out for awhile and go with just regular Valvoline 10/40... bad deal, that was right as everybody was getting away from zinc in their oils... Cam went awol after about 1 year! New cam and VR-1 ever since!
im more confused then ever??? im not sure what to put in my bike now???
Brad Penn because of high zinc content. If cam manufacturers recommend it, it's good enough for me.
That's about the most ludicrous statement I have read in along time and I am 60+ years old.
To me, that statement reads "people can't or won't take the time to read anything but some can/will believe anything that they think is reality based on a lack of a full or long life"
-Try driving the same gas engined vehicle for 10,000 miles a month or for 4 or 500,000 miles and see how many sbc or harley engines you will go thru using your analysis of "being lucky enough" to get 50,000 miles out of the cheapest oil in the cheapest engines.
While others have and will get up to 1/2 million miles using synthetic, Others may consider themselves 'lucky' to have driven 50,000 miles and not replace an engine. (I know of Honda motorcycle engines with 200,000 miles on them).
-And for any person to say or think that "they are putting non-synthetic oil in synthetic bottles" goes beyond common sense irregardless of being ill-read or ill-informed.
Next will we find out that they are only putting 6 ounces of coke in a bottle that says "12 fluid ounces"?
Opinions vary and if a person doesn't read/research or even use another manufacturers product then how can a person have a valid opinion on what the competition does or doesn't have?
They can't, They can only repeat rumor/rhetoric based on unfounded half truths/gossip which only results in clouding the real issue and causing endless confusion.
-Synthetic oil is as good as oil gets and does what it says.
-They are not putting sewing machine oil on a bottle marked 'synthetic' and selling it to the sheeple.
-The use of synthetic oils helps win races due to freeing up hp (less friction).
-Synthetic oils improve both engine vacuum and engine compression and help to hold those specifications higher for far longer than if a person used/changed to a non synthetic oil.
-There are 12 ounces of coke in a bottle marked "12 fluid ounces"
-I really don't expect any illiterate persons will have read this far but those that have researched synthetic oils probably know that 1/2 million miles is obtainable and 1/4 million on a cycle motor is not out of the question.
cutting thru the bs and still
-As far as suitability for older engines goes, all synthetics oils supply superior lubrication and some brands even offer compatibility with older SG or SH ratings and those synthetic oils are certainly a better choice than any of todays non synthetic oils rated at CF-4, CI-4, CJ-4 or SJ, SL, SM specs.
Sure, we would all love to have the choice of an SD, SE, SF rating but those specs are obsolete. Any oil, irregardless or synthetic or not, which is compatible with an SG or even an SH rating, or a diesel oil rated at CF is acceptable and for the most part backward compatible with older API specifications and older engines dating back to the Model T and beyond. Interperting and understanding the API ratings and just what is or is not backward compatible can be a little tricky as every oil manufacturer supplies limited info/specs.
As others have mentioned, Certain makes of Delo or Lucas "High TBN" oils are acceptable for older engines. The original Shell Rotella T is gone and the T1 was it's replacement. T1 carries a API compatibility rating of CF which makes it backward compatible with Rotella T and therefor should be compatible with older engines although it lacks some of the ash content that the original Rotella T had.
Some may prefer to use todays CF-4 of SM+ rated oils and throw in a bottle of Lucas additive but why pay extra for the additive when it is already in other brands/makes of oils?
http://www.motorexbih.com/API-SAE Engine Oil Service.pdf
cutting thru the bs and still
If you want the best, check out Schaeffer sence 1839 ,They spend there money on Technology making the BEST Quality Products , The others spend on advertising, Take a honest look www.schaefferoil.com Ps. you can send a sample of your oil and get it analyzed.
Valvoline VR1 in the Strange Bird. Delo in everything else. Gotta have ZDDP! Stay away from stuff with detergents.
Been using Tractor Supply company's traveller fleet diesel 15w-40, for 4 5 years (about 20K miles) in a then fresh rebuilt 230 mopar flat 6 with stock valve train. It is rated for all engines, not sure it has the CF rating, but when I first looked at it, it appeared to be very similar inspec and application to Rotella T. I haven't done my seasonal oil change yet, so I do not knwo if they have changed the formulea since last year, but it serves me will holding 35 to 40 lbs of pressure at idle at operating temp.
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