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which master cylinder you are using?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Dragrace66, Apr 26, 2006.

  1. Dragrace66
    Joined: Sep 13, 2001
    Posts: 258


    Iam looking for options for a compact non boost master cylinder, I would prefer a dual system. I heard the mopar B + C Bodies had compact mc's.
    Oh this is for my model A rpu project.
  2. what MC to use depends on what brakes you have..what do you have?
  3. Royalshifter
    Joined: May 29, 2005
    Posts: 15,523

    from California

    That is a great question and I need the same answered I have all 40 brakes and I want to use a dual res. MC 1/4 line and mount it on the frame rail?
  4. same 48 front setup...

  5. Rob Kozak
    Joined: Aug 18, 2005
    Posts: 442

    Rob Kozak

    I used a dual master based on the Mopar style. You can get from Jegs or Speedway or Motorstate for about 100 bucks. You'll need to plumb it right depending on brakes.
    A 2 psi residual for disks and 10 psi for drum.
    So, if it's a disk/disk you need 2 2psi valves
    If it's drum/drum you need 2 10
    If it'sdisk/drum you need one of each plus proportioning valve.
    Almost forgot, the jegs one you can buy as a kit with a pedal and mounting hardware, which is good because the pedal needs to have the right ratio.
  6. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,820

    from KCMO

    I used a 67-81 corvette 1" with my stock 53 pedal setup, many others use the 1" mustang. Take it from me, size it right and make sure the lines aren't backwards. my discs came from a car that used a 1 1/8 power master and the 1" is just enough. the stock 7/8 wouldn't hardly get it done. and stroke is important too. i lucked out, the pedal bottoms out right after the m/c so i'ts a great fit. somewhere there has to be a spec sheet that has bore and stroke, maybe an old wagner paper computer is holding up a crooked desk at the parts store.
  7. chrisntx
    Joined: Jan 20, 2006
    Posts: 1,798

    from Texas .

    I like to use 1980 Pinto master cylinders on everything I do. I only do 'old' cars. No modern cars built after 1949 and no disc brakes
  8. oldguy829
    Joined: Sep 19, 2005
    Posts: 376


    volkswagen vanagon. 15/16th bore, dual system, brake light port and best of all, remote reservoir.
  9. Tman
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 34,070


    What he said.

    We need to know what size wheel cylinders you have. Front and rear.

    Also, why 1/4"? The standard anymore is 3/16"
  10. bcarlson
    Joined: Jul 21, 2005
    Posts: 935


    Ok, maybe you-all can help me. I've been looking at just getting one of the $50-100 dual cylinders from speedway/jegs/summit/etc. I'd like to run non-boosted brakes, since I'll (hopefully, eventually) be running a lopey cam, and vacuum will be questionable. I've got a '53 F-100, and have a Ford 8.8" w/discs, and a Volare (actually an '85 Diplomat) front clip w/discs.

    Any pointers or suggestions?

  11. Dragrace66
    Joined: Sep 13, 2001
    Posts: 258


    Iam using F1 brakes in front and a complete F100 rear end, an all around drum brake setup. I want to install it under the floor connected to a 1937 brake + clutch pedal assembly. Hope this helps for better informations.
    Thanks in advance
  12. f-1's and f-100's used a master cylinders with a 1-1/16" bore

    with your 4 wheel drum brakes , i think you would have no problem using a `68 ford mustang drum/drum master cylinder. it has a 1" bore. i have used it many times with f-1/f-100 brakes

    napa part# 101485 , autozone part # m1485 , carquest# 20-1485

    i don't believe it has residual valves built in , so you would have to put 10 lb ones in both front and rear lines.

    as tman can plumb with 3/16" will need two adpaters to screw into the MC to go to the lines..edelmann part #258350

    if you want 1/4" lines...the adapter is part # 258450
  13. its_a_nick
    Joined: Jul 17, 2005
    Posts: 236

    from Sweden

    Im using a volvo 240 mc. Its a dual one and you can get the lines out on either the left or right. Front disk brakes are from a volvo 121 and the rear is from a audi with built in handbrake. Not so traditional but it works for me.
  14. arkracing
    Joined: Feb 7, 2005
    Posts: 891


    Just a side note: You only need the residual valves if you are mounting the master on the frame under the floor boards. They help with "bleed-back" since the actual brakes are higher than the master.
    They should be mounted as close to the master as possible.

    Proportioning valves should be plumbed into the rear brake lines.

    What about the Early Chevy Truck masters???? (For Firewall Mounting?)
    Anybody use them? - small & square with a 1&1/8" Bore - can they be used for a disk/drum set up or no?

    Attached Files:

  15. 29 sedanman
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 2,282

    29 sedanman
    from Indy

    I have the same basic brake set up you do, F1 fronts and 68 Mustang rear drums. I am using a MC from a 67 Nova. I measured the one on my dads car and it was a perfect fit for my cramped area.
  16. I use a Torino dual M/C similar to the one in the pic on my 32.
    Only difference is the outlets face toward the left side frame rail.
    Makes it nice cuz the collector isn't too far away.
    7/8" cylinder bore.

    The 31 on 32 rails project uses a Mustang dual M/C also 7/8" bore.
    Outlets on it face toward the transmission.
    (Shown in pic)

    Both M/C's are disc/drum.

    Both use Deuce Factory M/C/brake arm mounts.

    32's brakes are 68-70 Mustang disc, 9" Mercury wagon rear.
    31's brakes are Camaro disc, 9" Early 60's Ford pickup rear.

    Running a nine inch in both cars.

    Look in the tech archives for a disc brake article called, "Got Brakes?".
    More information on how to combine different year Camaro rotors and calipers.
    As well as Mustang and ChryCo disc brake combo's you can use.

    The Mustang rotors on the 32 are 11".
    Camaro rotors on the 31 are 10 1/2", but I expect it to stop as well as the Mustang braked 32.
    Which is to say, very well.
    Kinda fun to have powerful brakes on these lightweight cars.

    Far as power brakes go, you don't need em on most hot rods.
    Pedal effort with a proper ratio pedal arm makes life easy.

    Attached Files:

  17. mikeyboy
    Joined: Aug 26, 2001
    Posts: 223


    76 vette m/c, no power, 1 in bore. truck has the usual.....M II clip, 9 inch w7/8 wheel cyl. residual valves & adjustable valve in the rear.......stops real good, no front dive, it just squats & stops.
  18. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 6,969


    I'm using a MC and pedal mount setup out of a '67 Dodge van with '48 fronts and stock dodge rear drums from the same van. Dual res., I think it's a 1" bore, rebuilt one cost $15.27 @ advance. Mounts under the floorboards, pedal assy mounts to the frame rail. Cheap, and it saved me a lot of engineering!

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