where to get 600w oil ?

anybody know where i can get 600w molasses for my 37 ford steering box? and any tips on how to get in i was thinking maybe heat it up a little don't know if it will hurt the oil or not

 

You mean gearbox grease? You dip the parts before assembly.

Oh yea the autoparts. It won't be called 600W anymore just gearbox grease.

 

You do not want that. Go by the Ford recs, like 140 gear oil.

 

Bob Drake sells it.
http://www.bobdrake.com/ItemForm.aspx?Item=GL-600

 

macs antique auto has it in stock

 

...but it remains the wrong stuff. Book calls for 90, I suggest 140 just on the assumption that it is a bit worn...I would for insurance pull the lower plate (2 bolts!) and check the tube there for cracks, as any problems there will cause leaks. 600 type stuff was NEVER recommended for any V8 Ford use, it was entirely obsoleted by the first EP types of goo designed for the sort of sliding contact found in steering gears and spiral cut trans and rear gears.

 

I got straight 140 gear oil at Car Quest.

 

I have no Ford experience but early Chevy boxes specify "self levelling grease". Cheapest source is John Deere corn head grease at about 3 bucks a tube and works fantastic without leaking past seals like gear oil will. See here:

https://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/...alMultiPurpose.htm#_Special-purpose_corn_head


A cake decorating bag is the easy way to fill the box when using this stuff.

 

i use stp oil treatment in my ford box.huge improvment in steering effort.wont leak out.very thick stuff.

 

I use Lubriplate 250. It works great, and it doesn't stink like 90W.

 

lubriplate works for me

 

Same here on an old box that had leaked out the orig fill. The STP did not leak out that i noticed and it seemed to be fine for steering operation.

 

Bruce, 600 is still good for model A steering boxes, trans, and rearends yes???? I mean thats all I have ever used for my stock A crappola.

 

If using 80-90 gear oil be perpaired for it's odor.

 

Just a note. Thicker oil will not repair a worn out box. Liquid will not replace metal. If there is too much play in the steering box empty it will have just as much play when it is full of oil.

 

600 was old style and needed to be upgraded because the industry was rapidly moving to spiral cut gears, which have more sliding contact and friction then straight cut... Model A had straight cut trans, spiral rear. In 1932 Ford went to an ancestral form of the 140, the beginning of modern EP extreme pressure goo to cope with spiral and the later and even more frictive hypoid rears...This is in the owner's manuals, the '32 stuff was a higher number than 140 (don't remember exactly) and was replaced with modern 90 or 140 grades for all service requirements soon thereafter.
Note that the majority of '32 rears had same gears as Model A, and so 140 would be a good upgrade there for '28-31.
Model A trans was straight-cut and so had lighter friction loading than modern stuff. Seems to me that all the early steerings '28-36 had a lot of sliding contact, though a helluvalot slower than trans gears, so I would think using the EP stuff would be good there as well...again, that's what Ford did 1932 and onward. All of this stuff was continually improved as speeds and power loading increased and later on the changeover to hypoid (off center pinion) rears introduced a lot more potential friction and so brought on improvements in whatever the EP stuff is.

 

My '30s era champ car is going to have a Gemmer steering box that has a radically shortened column. I added a zerk fitting to the fill plug so I can fill it with lithium wheel bearing grease on top of a little 90 weight oil to make a "sludggy slurry" of lube. Not my idea - other earlier racers did this.

 

thanks for the help the cake bag sounds like something i might try

 

Tried heavy oil and no matter what it leaked and made a big mess under the car. I switched to constant velocity joint grease and no more issues


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John Deere Corn head grease.

Seriously,,,,

 

What Bruce says.

I just changed mine out for Penrite GL-1 140. Waaaaay better.

And it not really 600W. Its just a part number, its more like around 250W oil which is still really heavy.

I like the 140...smooth shifts, less noise and no leaks.

Rat

 

That John Deere stuff sounds pretty good .

I have had good success with the Penrite Steering Gear Lube . It is VERY slow to pour

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/

 

tractor supply company. works in ford tractors too

 

I use STP in my steering boxes, as one of the other posts said it doesn't leak and the steering is smooth.

 

The F100 box on my 27 always had a slight drip when running even 140 so a few years ago I simply shot it full of chassis grease from a grease gun. It has been that way ever since and is working fine with no more drips. I don't know if that is the perfect solution, but steering still feels fine and I imagine the grease is lubricating the moving parts inside well.

Don

 

Funny how we'll (present company included) rebuild an engine but leave a steering box worn out. On my list of to-do's.

 

Mine is actually rebuilt with a new worm assembly and all, but I think when I did some welding on it I damaged the seal just slightly. For years I just lived with some oil on my frame underneath it, but the grease seems to have solved that.

Don

 

Not you Don. My steering is tight, but seals no longer seal very well.

 

I know its a very old post, bt if you still need the 600wt oil...I have 55 gal. of it!

 

Me too!