The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by Roothawg, Jun 3, 2019.
Thanks for the clarification.
Advance to 4:21, and you can see how it works.
Bicycle cables for the passenger door inside the right rear wheel well (suicide doors) in case of a dead battery and behind the rear bumper for the trunk plus remote battery posts inside a rear wheel well.
Sorry, I missed this earlier.
Yes, a hamber sells them. http://www.logic-industries.com/
I remember the thread where he was talking about making them but I just wanted to know how it actually worked.
My bear claw latches either pull straight up from the top of the door or at 90 degrees coming from the inner door handle. If these are in fact just a push button it wouldn't actuate the release.
You can get small pulleys, and route the cables anywhere.
I used patio door rollers.
So is there a locking option using the Lincoln buttons?
Don't forget to install a fuel shutoff valve. Just in case you get knocked out, the engine kills, and it takes the rescue squad 10 minuets to get there to open your door that the bystanders couldn't. Having no door handles is illegal in Wisconsin.
My system as well.
You might look in your local Pull-A-Part for a 1999-2002 Daewoo trunk release the lever mounts next to the driver's seat and runs back to the trunk.
For the remote trunk release on my roadster I bought the same hood release assembly (with handle) that my 2000 Silverado uses, brand new from GM, perfect length.
It’s also illegal to have no fenders...
Wrong, read the latest posts.....the WSP is having a pow-wow, and will either follow the laws like they have for 20+ years, or it will be sorted out in court. We are for the moment just waiting for them to figure out the direction they are going to take.
I was joking, but my happy face disappeared...
I wasn't joking, a no door handle car isn't in my future.....your thoughts may vary.
A friends steel, no outside door handles 34 Ford 5W coupe burned to the ground. He talked about what could happen if you got knocked out in an accident. With bystanders trying to get the door open, because the chopped top window being too small to crawl out of.
An engine fire started, and in the pannic, he neglected to turn off the ignition switch so the electric fuel pump kept pumping as he bailed out of the car. The fire was so intense, that he couldn't get back to the switch.
I also installed The E-Stopp emergency brake system and hid the activation button. The normal start button on a Ford F1 is now used to open the Tonneau cover and installed a disguised push button for the engine start.
When I rewired the wifies MGB I installed a rollover switch to the electric fuel pump circuit. It immediately disconnects the power when the car receives a good bump. It is something that should be added to any electric fuel pump car regardless if it has door handles or not.
That's a new one for me. The '39 Dodge I'm building for my grandson has no door handles. Eeeek.
One great reason to use a mechanical fuel pump, and not an electrical one.
For the doors, I had my solenoid wires routed up to the rubber in my vent window of my 47 Chev. For the trunk, I didn't have a lock. I was living in Vancouver for almost two of the years, and never experienced a break-in.
If I was doing it today, I would install water-proof switches, for both the doors and the trunk, and I would set them up so they were under the rockers so that I could operate them with my food without anyone being the wiser.
Trim the wind wing latch so it'll open while it looks locked, simple effective, never fails. JW
When I bought my 51 Merc in 1963 it had a choke cable running from the package tray to the trunk latch. Pain in the butt to get in to open the trunk though.
That 92 GEO prism GSI (AKA Toyota Corolla ) I have out in the yard that got totaled by a dump truck has a cable that goes from just down in front of the driver's seat to the trunk latch. There are two levers there and one is for the trunk and one is for the gas filler door. I don't know how hard they are to get out but I plan on pulling them out before the thing goes to scrap.
I used to have a piece of 1/8 welding rod running down though the bottom of the door on the 48 and sticking out about 1/2 inch if that that you could grasp with a pair of pliers if the solenoid didn't work. Not noticeable and I couldn't pull it down by hand when my fingers actually worked and were strong enough. that won't work with doors that close over a jamb though.
Nosed and decked my Mom's '56 Ford convert back in '57. As I was a bicycle mech back then, I asked my boss about a flex cable for rim brakes. (10 speed type)
Al brought out a large box, and told me to trim off what I needed...there were 50 foot lengths of bulk shielded cable, smooooth stuff!
I attached a 10 foot length from trunk lid latch up along the lid, then under the mat to holes drilled in inner panel, then body next to the gas filler cap. (behind the hinged license plate) Cool, T-handle. Chrome.
Mom went into the Star & Bar service station for gas...Curious attendant was bent over pumping gas, pulled on the 'T' handle, and 'Whump!' The deck lid sprung up and knocked him down.
He sat down hard, nearly bit his tongue off... Mom felt terrible.
I told her she'd feel apologetic to a burglar.
The curious attendant should have apologized for pulling the T handle!
If you trim the wind wing lock so it looks locked but it's not, then you can just go thru the wind wing and no cables required. In the 50's most were solenoid operated with a grounding button or a pull cable in the front wheel well. I like the wind wing deal because it will never fail. JW
Behind the back bumper for the trunk. As for the door solenoids, I think the best bet is to have a means of jumping 12v to the solenoid independent of the remote module and key fob. The odds of losing both doors at the same time is slim.
never felt the need for them. 2 doors with solenoids, chances are good that both won't fail at the same time. dead battery? just open the hood and give it a jump. gotta jump it anyhow to start it. the trunk? remove the back seat and dis assemble the latch to open. I haven't had an emergency pop up yet that I needed to get into a car with no door handles and I shaved my first set of handles over 40 years ago
I largely agree with you, except that the trigger for the key fob for the poppers goes through the cheesy receiver, which if it goes bad, ruins your ability to open all of the doors that have solenoids. That's a non issue if you have buttons elsewhere to press that open the doors
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