Projects Wheel Stands for lifting and supporting a car

I agree with you.
I do too, but being a welder if I don't build the jack up style that I originally posted I will probably build the steel ones I posted in the post I made with the cribbed ones.

 

+1 on the kwik_lift. I picked mine up used and it is a great solution if you have limited ceiling height. It's also a nice compromise over a full lift if you have limited budget as they are reasonably easy to find used.

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The main drawback for me in looking at the Kwik lift is in the physical size and weight of it.
No way I can see having it sitting there taking up free and open floor space when I don't need it.
I need that space to freely move other things around my already overcrowded 2 car garage.
Any space I have has to be open and able to be used as work space.
I don't have a dedicated bay to leave it in for just storage.
And I don't have a place to roll it outside to store either.
So, a Kwik lift is out for me.

 

Couldn't you just park on it with it dropped when not in use?

While we are talking about it how much lift does that contraption get you anyhow?

 

Parking on it isn't the issue. That might be fine with a finished car when all you were using the space for would be for parking or servicing the car.
Building a car is a whole different thing.
Needing to be able to move parts, and roll things around a huge chunk of iron like the Kwik lift would always be in the way.
The original jack up stands I posted go from 8" down to 14" high lifted.

 

Just for curiosity I contacted the maker of the lift stands I originally posted. Here's the reply:

Hi,


I am building and selling my lift stand, but I’m currently out of stock. The interest has grown, so any new orders will be added to a waiting list, with a lead time of about 3 to 4 weeks. The price for a pair (2 stands) is $265.00, shipping is not included. Ship to US and Canada. My zip code is 60442 to check the shipping cost go UPS.com. The stands are shipped individually 36lbs each. If you're interested in placing an order, send me your billing/shipping information. I will then email a PayPal invoice that is payable with most any major credit card, or you may send a check by mail. The order will be shipped after payment is received.

 

no perfect solution for every situation - friend bought a Kwik Lift but, the units have an angle built in so that you will find out if your ride has a weak trans rear seal if you leave it parked on lift for a while. . plus, only had a small two car garage so, could not open both car doors while on lift. could not park car in middle of garage to have doors open because lift was in the way. of course, if you have a big garage or shop this likely would not be a problem.

 

Seems the perfect solution for me is the lottery win and the huge shop
In any case I will probably opt for the cheap way out at this point and devote my time and money to the RPU.
I want to drive it after all
I think that I'll try to make sure my retirement property has a tall shop and a 4 post drive on lift
Larry

 

Yea, the kwiklift is what it is. sometimes it is hard to use for some parts of a build. I have leaned the ramps up in the carport more than once, loaned it to neighbors, brothers and just thrown a tarp over them outside. Less than 500 bucks off C-list, invaluable when in use, I was looking at stands also but way too much money for what they are. And if that little slope make a trans seal leak, well it needed to be replaced anyway.

 

How about one or two of the old Gray or Walker air bumper jacks.
I have spent a lot of my youth under cars with these.

 

It really should go without need to say anything but,,,,
when loads are elevated you should use extreme caution and know what you're doing

This probably won't work for everyone, but a variation of it might.
Everything around here has to function at a dual purpose or move out of the way.

The big jack stands are really stable they are rated for 12 tons and go 30" tall, but they don't stack to conserve floor space.
They do allow the vehicles wheels to come off though. It's up to you how you place them if the suspension is loaded or not & on the other hand you can sit at ride height with tires on If you care to measure and shim, I have a set welded to the roller bases. It works well but it's not easy to roll a car.
The beams are sort of a stationary 4 post lift for something that will be up for a while. They hold a jack stand or set under the tires, however I choose. I Think of it like a elevated pit. It's not easy to get it up or down at this height, so it's just for long term stuff. It's fabrication dynamics and utility works better than a 2 post or 4 post lift.
The red stool is about 2" too tall, cutting it down is on my to do list.





Dual purpose or move out of the way.
Monday this moves. The sides roll up, the poles get stowed and then it raises up into the ceiling. It will take less than 20 mins to take down, it takes about 1 hr to set up. There's hoist cables and pulley system, Hoist is on the right at the top of the channel.
This place is bigger than a 2 car but smart use of space is primo.

 

Kwik Lift rated at 5000# works great bought mine used off a Craig's list for $900 raises bottom of tires to 20" safe, quickly raised/lowered, just need a floor jack that raises up to 16-17". I would go for a 4 poster in my new house but ceiling is 10' 10" so if I wanted to drive my daily vehicle (58"high) under my '40 coupe I need another foot and the builder can't do it so I'm sticking with my Kwik Lift.

 

Plucked from the "homemade tools" thread:

 

Those tall small ones in the first picture look downright scary.

 

Which tall ones in which picture

 

These ones.
I know they were made by a well known and respected fabricator but they are far too small to be safe IMHO.
The car should be sitting on another 2 like the rear used for the front.
Or at least a little larger.
And being so tall. how in hell would they even be put into play.

 

Even the system you posted looks scary to me. With the absence of a full overhead crane in my garage I'm not sure how I could safely get a car up onto and off of the tall ones like you use or the ones I posted.
I think that 12" high would be difficult.

 

Mount the engine in the rear, use low gears and lots of torque to get wheel stands. Wheelie bars will limit the travel to add a measure of safety. I actually use jack stands made out of model T rear axle halves.

 

Yes, I said that it wouldn't work for everyone. Because it is rather high, a nice working height but its not easy getting it up there or down from there.

http://m.harborfreight.com/2-ton-lo...vy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-60678.html

This one lifts to 23.75" as well as narrows to 3.5" with that jack and the tall stands you can get the axles 24" off the ground without much trouble. If

 

this came from a 1967 R&C mag. looks kinda scary to me.

 

There are more than one variation of the home made ramps that have been published and built over the years.
I've been using 4 of the molded plastic one during the majority of my build once I got off the frame table.
The big drawback to the ramps is the tail of the ramp is always in the way.

 

Ooh, that's nasty. Way too much potential death there.

 

The biggest problem with those ones is the absence of the flat part on top to prevent rolling off

 

The Gibbons ones look like the steel ones in the above post, only solid with no holes.

 

Or, If money is no problem these are nice. the ramps all come off after car is on.
http://www.raceramps.com/maintenance-service-car-ramps.aspx

So many different solutions.

 

Race Ramps stuff is way too expensive for what it is. Overpriced ****
I needed a set this past summer to load the RPU into the trailer for the trip to Rod Tops.
I said screw their high price and in short order with a couple sheets of plywood I built my own.
A little off my thread topic however you mentioned Race Ramps
The race ramps you posted are also too low for the purpose of this thread as well.

 

So, when all was said and done I decided to build a set of steel stands. 3/16" plate and 12" high.
After I cut them all out and welded them up, I painted them my favorite color
Then I went to the local skateboard shop and picked up some grip tape for the top surface.
Anti slip is a good idea I thought.
Larry

 

Those came out nice! Yea, I just threw the race ramps under the bus for comparison sake.

 

Bump !

 

After reading this I'm assuming that these are a manufactured item build by a company and not just a garage built item. SO, just to be on the careful side here, do take into consideration liability. If you make these yourself and something fails you have little or no recourse for insurance. If you purchase the manufactured ones and something fails you have the manufacturing company that's held liable. had a buddy who built his own low-lift hoist. Worked great until a hose let go one night. he was stuck in his garage for a couple of hours before someone came over and helped to get him out. Injuries were not to severe but bills had to be paid out of pocket. No one to fall back on...